Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[TiredIronGRB]

You guys are slacking...you haven't noticed something ;)

[quitcherbitchen]

Hey Adam, Brent here! Got mine Sat. and saw in on the front porch when I got home from the event at Apollo. Big box to say the least. To tried to even open it up, but jumped into it after breakfast on Sun. and had it together except for the top of the wing piece by the afternoon. The biggest deal is the electronics. Was going to us a Lemon rec., but decided on a better one. Ordered Robart cross threaded tires, mains and nose. Paint scheme: Flak Bait; I also had gotten decals from Callie Graphics after the preorder. Looking forward to flying with you. Keep me posted on your build and I'll do the same. Cheers!
Brent

Hi Brent I have been so busy I haven't even had a chance to open the box. I may not start on it until after Sept.

[Hardway]

I did some more looking in the rear of the fuselage, and there are two weights in this bird. Only one of mine fell out in shipping. They are standing vertically in the fuse walls, both port and starboard... If the tail guns are in place, you really can't see them... Also, for ESC cooling, I cut the area out of the dummy radials, between the bottom 4 cylinder heads with a dremel tool. Otherwise, I just can't see any airflow getting into the nacelle. This may help a little....

[Hardway]

TI, do you mean that your "football" is on the top of the fuse and not the bottom??? LOL I thought that was for when you are flying inverted......

[TiredIronGRB]

TI, do you mean that your "football" is on the top of the fuse and not the bottom??? LOL I thought that was for when you are flying inverted......

Well that's one thing but there's another one that is two...

[Hardway]

Your prop hubs are not factory issued... If they are, then mine are sure different!

[TiredIronGRB]

Your prop hubs are not factory issued... If they are, then mine are sure different!

Bingo! those come with the LX B-25 but aren't used so I dremeled them out so they would fit over the hubnut.

[rifleman_btx]

Nicely done

[Bigrc2]

I know that some of you guys if not all have been doing all kind of fixes trying to get the hatch on top of the wing to fully close. I came up with a solution. I added two magnets, one to the hatch and another to the wing. With just a gentle push, the magnet make contact and the hatch closes fully. Am posting pics. Also am attaching a pic of the wiring setup I did. Since I use a separate 10amp BEC with battery to power the receive, I didn't have enough room without crowding so I probably mount that battery on the underside of the canopy.

[Guest]

I had the same problem with the hatch. I took the magnet out of the hatch and moved toward the top on the hatch and it closes up fully now.

[borntoolate]

Hey Bob, Got mine on Sat. last week and even though I'm trying to get my Bearcat ready for its maiden, I had to dig in. Started out trying to screw the hor. and vert. fins in from the top, but thanks to Ryan's build vid saw the holes on the bottom of the fuse. From there on all went well. I had her together in a matter of hours. Now on to the electrons. First had to I.D. the servos ala a tester. The numbers on the leads are different than the norm. I decided to not resolder deans plugs on the motor leads and bought a XT60 connector (it'll be the only plane I've done that on.As one of the guys in the thread, not sure if I'm going to use a 3600 or a 4000 for the maiden. Also, going to sub Robart cross threaded tires for those balloons! And weathering! Going to try the water and salt techique but will try it out first on a scrap piece of already painted foam. Paint scheme...going for Flak Bait. Already got my decals from Callie. Haven't looked at the top hatch on the wing to see if it has the same problem that some of the guys have found. Looks like an easy fix.I'm going to wait to maiden her until the repaint. Let me know how yours is coming along. As for bomb bay doors, which I know you love, I'm sure you won't try to do bi-fold doors. Big problem and as you say, who can tell once the plane is in the air. Miss you and Tsukai. See what you've been happening with you guys on the net. Happy landings,

Brent

Hi Brent! Good to see you are also working on yours. I had to remove the middle magnets on the top cover and add rare earth magnets on the front edge. It fits well now. I did have a bad elevator servo so I changed that out. Currently I have 1400mm FMS P-51 wheels for the mains and a 980mm P-40 wheel for the nose. I do have Robarts on order though. I just want to get this first one flying with a few mods and paint. The second one will be in a green over grey scheme. I ran out of time today before I could hinge the bomb bay.

The electronics were not too hard to decipher. A simple process of elimination. It only took a few minutes. Tomorrow I will cover the invasion stripes with a primer of grey, then add the silver over that. My version was from 1941-1942 - no invasion stripes then.

We have been trying to keep busy. We are off to a "Warbirds over Livermore" this Saturday. We really need to get down to Apollo soon! We rather enjoy the group and the field there.

Bob

[Guest]

Has anyone changed out the red and green LED in the wing? I would like to install white LEDs for landing lights I am going to figure out a way to have them come on when the gear is lowered.

[rifleman_btx]

Just get you a Dr mad thrust power switch and y the switch with your gears then put the led controller on the switch https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dr-mad-t...ff-switch.html

[ryramZ]

Has anyone changed out the red and green LED in the wing? I would like to install white LEDs for landing lights I am going to figure out a way to have them come on when the gear is lowered.

I did.
I used the FMS Skytrainer 182 lights, two sets.
Freewing Old Crow sequencer boxes.

here's the deal it takes two channels. I'll set the stage. Freewing retracts work opposite FMS. For example one time I replaced a FMS nose retract with a Freewing. They work opposite until you split them up.

I put my lights/ sequencer on channel 5 and my gear on channel 7 and reversed it and assigned them to the same switch.

If if you don't care if the landing lights are on all the time the FMS lights do not need a driver and can y into any channel.

[rifleman_btx]

Could also use a unused channel with the switch and mix it. Thats also an option

[Bigrc2]

I had the same problem with the hatch. I took the magnet out of the hatch and moved toward the top on the hatch and it closes up fully now.

More than one way to skin a cat!

[terrygrau]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.
Should have sensed something wrong but was pushing to fly in event this weekend. Result tip stall, crash and new fuselage required.

Somebody needs to figure out these 2 large tail weights and why they are there.
I could not find them during assembly so had to add about the same amount to the nose to balance. Now I have a high wing loading and a high polar moment of inertia and she turned into the original "baltimore *****". Basiclly unflyable even with a gyro.

Next flight will be without any weights and a smaller battery and possibly some up trim.

I am beginning to think this is a good looking twin "without any visable means of support"

[xviper]

I had the same problem with the hatch. I took the magnet out of the hatch and moved toward the top on the hatch and it closes up fully now.

The front lip can be flattened out by just pushing on it, so new placement of the magnet will fix it but ........................... What about at the rear? It's a different can of worms. There's actually some obstruction there and just pushing on it won't close the gap. Either the wing is too thick there or the wing cap is too thick there or the middle magnets are not buried deep enough.

[TiredIronGRB]

Loosen the wing and make sure it's all the way forward and seated to the fuse...most of the alignment issues are from the wing not being seated properly.

[xviper]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.

That's odd. I'm using the mid-way point (70-75mm) and 4000mah, 4s battery - it's still nose heavy. I'm guessing mine actually balanced at around 65mm, so I put back that one weight I took out that was loose. For you to use an even bigger battery and still need more weight up front is weird.
I'm about to maiden mine in an hour or so. Will report back later today, maybe with video.