downwindleg/Aros ESM 50cc F4U Corsair Build (Electric Conversion)

[Aros]

Looks great Aros. Are you doing anything to get extra cooling air to the Rimfire? They are pretty high kv for their size and do get warm.

Thanks! Yeah I am going to remove the backplate I have on the radial for that very reason. I thought maybe I could get away with it but that's too much lack of cooling.

[Aros]

Looks great Aros. How about a peek of the dummy in the cowl?????

Wait, do you mean me or the radial?? LOL

Thanks! Quick pic I took late last night...

[Aros]

[Twowingtj]

Thanks! Yeah I am going to remove the backplate I have on the radial for that very reason. I thought maybe I could get away with it but that's too much lack of cooling.

Looking good! :Cool:

It would be good if you could have it open between most of the radial cylinders. When I do that, I'll paint the firewall are black so it's not seen. Try to ensure your ESC has good air flow too. And as Rifleman said, make sure you've got a place at the rear for plenty of air exit as well.

One other tip for your maiden, if I may....put that nice Biela prop on a shelf somewhere and install a two blade wood prop. I learned this one the hard way. I had a nice 3 blade Biela on my BV-141B when I maidened it. As luck would have it, I had a nose over on landing and cracked a blade. Expensive $$:Scared:.

Just out of curiosity, what battery configuration are you planning to use?

[rifleman_btx]

Very wise tip on the prop choice for maiden

[Aros]

Thanks! Yeah that's really not a bad idea i.e. the prop for the maiden. I'll snag a 2 blade to have as an option if I choose to forgo the Biela 3 blade. I believe the battery configuration will be 12S so two 6S 5000's in series. With the radial and batteries the nose is going to be nice and heavy. I am hoping I won't need to add any tail weight. I hear these giant Corsairs like a lot of weight in the cowl.

[buffetbob]

Aros,
I swing that prop albeit a 17x10x3 on my H9 20cc Corsair on 10S with a P160. I will tell you the sound is way too cool and the prop pulls like a banshee! I personally love it and now that I'm working on the TF Giant Corsair I'll be using the Rimfire and this prop...unless you report the Vario is better. More to come and I look forward as I did on my Legends P-38 to watch your progress. Bob

Yeah I don't know why the hub has to be that big. I'm sure it can be explained in the engineering of it. I decided to request the 3D crank case be redone larger. There's a gap between the base of the molded crank case on the dummy radial and the base of the 3D crank case, about 1/4" which will cause the prop to stick out too far from the LE of the cowl when everything is in place. In order for the 3D crank case to fit perfectly over the molded piece it needs to be 1/4" wider diameter. Once that's done then the radial is done done.
;)

[AkumaZeto]

[farmflyer]

:Scared:

[Aros]

LOL, for those of you who don't know, I have landed the services and talents of our own AkumaZeto to paint my Pappy pilot. He has amazing painting skill which will be the perfect compliment to the awesome cockpit weathering Plastic Aviator did for me. Now that I finally invested in an airbrush system, I have my work cut out for me to attempt to create (see: smoke and mirrors) a weathering and detail of the plane that can at least give the illusion that it belongs with their talents.

You can check out AkumaZeto's awesome work at this thread. And if you need a pilot painted, he's your man.

As for the build progress, Chris is currently working on the Power Management System that came with the Corsair. Getting the flaps and retracts to work properly, etc...

[AkumaZeto]

Thanks for the reps. If it were my bird I would just do light exhaust light oil leakage and just hit it with dust/sand pigments were it counts. Look at some of the ammo by mig products and weathering guides.

[AkumaZeto]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pofSNXPidrg

[Aros]

Thanks for the tip and link. Now that's some sweet weathering! I agree, I don't want to overkill at all. Understated is so much more effective. I see so many modelers ruin their RC aircraft with overstated panel lines and weathering. Makes it look like a toy. Understated but smart and strategic weathering is key.

[AkumaZeto]

She looks nice with her pants down :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGBXShuUZ-8

[Aros]

This guy did a nice job with his Corsair (minus the sound)...Good weathering, love Pappy's turning head and rolling canopy...

[AkumaZeto]

That paint effect is pretty easy to achieve. Mostly over coat dusting and dullcote. Just trey to remember how oxidized they would be sitting out all the time.

[Aros]

Exactly. Some other good tips I've found that I plan on referring to when the time comes (and I get a little time under the airbrush):

Flaking Paint

Creating A Museum Quality Corsair (Excellent work)

Weathering A Warbird

[AkumaZeto]

I find for myself that its best to keep moving too. Dont stay in one area to long. Move it along. Splatters can be be achieved ILM style. Load up brush and spray airbrush threw it. Try it on paper first. What is the surface made of? Can you use oils? Also if you are painting the bird use maskol/chipping fluid. Painted chips always look well painted.

[Aros]

Great tips, thanks! The model's fuselage is epoxy resin fiberglass, the wings built up and covered with Solartex fabric, which is then painted with enamel. I was planning on sanding the whole plane, then priming, adding all the rivet detail and finally painting the enamel with rattle cans before hitting it with the airbrush.

[AkumaZeto]