Heng Long 6.0 T72 giving it a go on my "low traction" steep angle climb obstacle.
Heng Long 6.0 T72 during IR battle "compatibility" testing. Notice the large sun shade covering the IR receiver on top of the turret to shade it from bright sunlight.
Heng Long Abrams running at a scale 50 mph just screams please jump me....
Tamiya Abrams running at a scale 50 mph just had to prove it too was a jumper....
Heng Long M41 Walker Bulldog that is highly modified to make it one of the best terrain conquering and IR battling dominate tanks I own.
how did you get the T-72s machine gun on the cupala to face forward?
Had a ton of fun this weekend weathering and detail the Pro versions of the Sherman and King Tiger! Paint those metal wheels and tracks makes them pop so much.
We airbrushed, dry brushed, washed, sponged and just had a blast bring out some more detail on these babies
Heng Long Panzer IV , modified antenna mount to out it where it is supposed to go, some detail work and subtle weathering followed by Tamiya matte clear.
Heng Long KV-1 "PRO" version. Tracks painted with satin black rustoleum 2 in with primer (works pretty good on these), drive sprockets and idlers painted Tamiya JA Green (pretty close match). Light weathering with Tamiya Weathering Master products, followed by matte clear.
What's the go for getting a durable painted finish on the metal tracks? Or is it just one of those things you have to accept will need touching up over time?
I'm thinking some acrylic shot out of an airbrush followed with a few coats of clear to protect the finish?
What's the go for getting a durable painted finish on the metal tracks? Or is it just one of those things you have to accept will need touching up over time?
I'm thinking some acrylic shot out of an airbrush followed with a few coats of clear to protect the finish?
Paint on tracks will ALWAYS wear off rather fast if you drive the tank moderately outdoors in dirt sand or light mud. For metal tracks what last longer is to use a blackening agent like “gun blue”. This actually puts a fine layer of dark gray/black rust on them which is much more resistant to wearing off as fast as paint.
I have been using “gun blue” to darken metal tracks for a rather long time with no ill effects. It does wear eventually but unlike paint it leaves nice black highlights to the nooks and crannies of the track which when combined with a coat of dust and some light dry mud just heightens the realism and overall weathering effect.
Great idea, that's effectively stained oxide on the surface right? Anything firearms related isn't conveniently bought here in the Peoples Republic of Australia but the effect can probably be achieved in other ways.
Great idea, that's effectively stained oxide on the surface right? Anything firearms related isn't conveniently bought here in the Peoples Republic of Australia but the effect can probably be achieved in other ways.
What is the material? Steel?
The tracks are not steel but they are rather tough metal.
There is a hobby blackening agent basically the same blue colored liquid as “gun blue”. I haven’t use the hobby version in years and can’t remember the name of the produce.
mshagg I use Casey Gun Black, or AK Interactive's Brass Etching fluid. Straightforward stuff, just immerse the part in it for 10-40 seconds, the longer it stays in the darker it gets. Afterward, clean it with water and soap, or you can use a weak base like sodium bicarbonate to neutralize it.
The acid etch darkens the surface and pits it slightly, which is perfect for soaking up extra bits of grime.
Another method I use after this step is to pack the tracks in mud and leave them outside for a week.
Ferric chloride should be used with gloves and eye protection. Avoid clothes and porous things, and metal sink fixtures and drains!
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