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M1A2 90% done: camo, grime, worn metal. Still need to do the tracks, and get some dirt on it. I’ve used AK’s Streaking Grime to fill in recesses and panel lines, and their True Metal to highlight areas that might receive wear, like handles and hard edges. A good sandstorm in the desert will do a number on paint!
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Not a still photo, but a short video clip of my M1A2 in action - firing in slo-mo with my iPhone 11!
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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King Tiger in the brush...
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Whelp. I am speechless. That is an amazing battlefield. I say keep the one outdoors and just build a new on indoors too!
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Thanks. The land is owned by a school district, and was loaned to us for 20 years. They need the room to park more busses. We'll battle-on, its just going to take a while to rebuild.Comment
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Couple more tanks that frequent the FRAG RC Tank Club battlefield. All with IBU2U boards, some with FPV.
Not a tank but it does roam the field during some games, and can be hit. Tamiya battle unit, with FPV.
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Happy as a tank in mudComment
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BcuriousR, what’s your opinion of that truck? Online reviews are mixed, some saying it’s underpowered. I wouldn’t expect it to be a rock crawler! There’s a 4 wheel and a 6 wheel version. Know anything about the differences?The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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I've built a few of them:). They are not rock crawlers. They can be, but it will cost money. The stock electronics on most of them will disappoint. I buy them in kit form, (come with better motors, softer tires, and metal geared differentials), Then add my own transmitter, (usually a flysky 3 or 5 channel), One radio can remember several models, and add a steering servo, (some of the kits come with one), and an esc. To build the first one: Truck: 35.00, Radio and receiver: 35.00, ESC, 8.00, LiPo battery,10.00. The next builds used the same radio, so you can drop that from the total. Then I started adding sound to some: 20.00. Others, I added FPV cameras, 15.00. Some have Tamiya Battle Units so they can fight, or avoid the fight safely. Some were just built for fun, (The crawlers with fighter plane themes). The bottom right truck was a lesson on kit building, soldering, and airbrush for my 9 year old son, (He's very proud of it).
Then I built one of these to use in displays and obstacle courses for kids using FPV. Good times.
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Very nice! Hey, I'm interested in the "kits" you mention. Are they of the flakwagen, ambulance and tanker trucks? If so, got a source for them? I have drawers full of electronics and servos from 30 years in rc airplanes that I could apply!The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Sorry, no. The ambulance bed/box was scratch built with styrene, (pre-3D printer days). The flak gun was cobbled together from a few different things. The tank for the fuel truck is available online from various sources (https://www.taigentanks.com/accessories/imx77134 , https://www.banggood.com/WPL-B24-B16...r_warehouse=CN),
Kit versions of the trucks can be found on Banggood, Aliexpress, or in the states from Taigen. https://www.taigentanks.com/military/zis151-kit , https://www.taigentanks.com/military/zis150-kit.
The Ural is probably the best of the bunch in stock form: https://www.taigentanks.com/military/uralkitComment
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Thanks again! Their ZIS-151 with sound is exactly what I was looking for. Now I just have to wait for them to restock!The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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I really like these 1/16 scale trucks because they are relatively cheap and have nice scale features in my opinion. BcuriousR is right about the upgrades. They typically do not come with proportional steering, but one servo installed can fix that. In my experience buying kits from banggood, two of them were missing hardware and parts. So I've been buying the RTR versions and installing a steering servo, new ESC, and new gearbox with 380 motor. I have 2 transmitters to operate all the trucks (so 2 people can drive at once). There are also a ton of 3DP files out there to print various scale accessories or broken parts.
Even tho they are not top of the line, I've been enjoying running these trucks around. I've printed a trailer from Thingiverse that will haul the tanks/trucks for fun. I started a thread in the "Trucks" section. Here's the link:
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Heng Long T72 “up-armored” and Tamiya M551 Sheridan. Lighting can really change the look of a tank in a natural environment. These two photos where taken 20 minutes apart in approximately the same location. For more photos and short videos of these two feel free to visit my Instagram @ fsttanks.
Lighting can really change the look of tanks in a natural environment.Comment
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Rubicon99 Yes. The first pic the T-72 Looks more desert and Sheridan's camo demarcation looks more distinct. Great photos! I keep trying to go to your instagram but it almost immediately blocks me and asks me to sign in for something. Sort of like when you want to view some facebook page.Comment
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Bit more fun in the mud today. Only one pic, Bit hard to drive and take pics but you get the idea.Comment
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Been having a blast with the Chieftain lately - Haya really came out with a strong first offering by using rebadged electronics internally. Looking forward to the Centurion. Disappointed with the lack of bearings in the road wheels though, as I had to tear them down after a muddy run (the time out seen in the last pic here) and was unsurprised to see evidence of plastic wear already. Threw some grease in there in hopes I'd slow down the degradation and stop dirt from being as abrasive, but damn think I'll have to eventually find some way to cram them in there or something because I'd hate to lose this tank to wear and tear so quick!
I had a really good first pass of weathering, I felt, but then was a little horrified when to learn how a clearcoat can blast away your weathering work haha (lesson learned - although the treated surface is definitely better quality):
After the clearcoat, though:
Also the WPL trucks are good fun! They're really quite nice for the price, and the newer ones do seem to come with proportional steering. If you get the KM edition kit, you get metal axle covers and metal gears + wheel weights - all things I'd highly recommend! The Ural I'm towing here broke the plastic axle covers and several other non-metal components - although it did keep running just fine, it's probably something you want to watch out for. It also resulted in muddy water getting into the diff, which isn't great ;p
last one - megafauna!
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The NO BEARINGS in the road wheels was a deal killer for me. Sold it before I even got it in. Plastic on plastic will last only a few hours of running for me.Been having a blast with the Chieftain lately - Haya really came out with a strong first offering by using rebadged electronics internally. Looking forward to the Centurion. Disappointed with the lack of bearings in the road wheels though, as I had to tear them down after a muddy run (the time out seen in the last pic here) and was unsurprised to see evidence of plastic wear already. Threw some grease in there in hopes I'd slow down the degradation and stop dirt from being as abrasive, but damn think I'll have to eventually find some way to cram them in there or something because I'd hate to lose this tank to wear and tear so quick!
I had a really good first pass of weathering, I felt, but then was a little horrified when to learn how a clearcoat can blast away your weathering work haha (lesson learned - although the treated surface is definitely better quality):
After the clearcoat, though:
Also the WPL trucks are good fun! They're really quite nice for the price, and the newer ones do seem to come with proportional steering. If you get the KM edition kit, you get metal axle covers and metal gears + wheel weights - all things I'd highly recommend! The Ural I'm towing here broke the plastic axle covers and several other non-metal components - although it did keep running just fine, it's probably something you want to watch out for. It also resulted in muddy water getting into the diff, which isn't great ;p
last one - megafauna!
Did you try a set of Challenger 2 bearing road wheels on it? They used Challenger road wheels on the prototype. They might have kept the design close enough. Unfortunately I sold my Chieftain before I tried this combination out.
Your Chieftain is the first dirty one I have seen anywhere online👍👍👍Comment
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