Official Freewing Twin 80mm F-14D Tomcat Thread

[Dougcarr73]

Thank you Dougcarr73! I just want to make sure I have this straight before I plug anything in. Do I "Y" cable the two throttle leads and still have the reverse functionality? Or, do I disable the middle lead to the throttle on one of the ESCs? where did you find the programming instructions?
Thank you!!

It doesn't show it in the picture, but there are 2 leads coming off of one ESC (1 lead for the throttle and the other lead is for reverse). I have 3 Y-Harnesses (1 for reverse leads, 1 for throttle leads, and 1 harness for the afterburner/throttle connection). Reverse needs its own channel on the receiver. I have it plugged in AUX 5 (Ch 10) and programmed on Switch F, so my right hand hits the switch and my left hand can be focused on steering and reverse thrust application while on the ground.

You need to get an AR10361 receiver (10 Ch) to get the most out of this aircraft, such as full span flaps and reverse. Here's how I have mine setup:

Aircraft wing type: Elevon A
CH 0: BEC
CH 1: Throttle, Y-Harness to afterburner and Y-harnessed ESCs
CH 2: Left Elevator (bypass board; direct connection)
CH 3: Right Elevator (bypass board; direct connection)
CH 4: Rudder (you'll need three 24" servo extensions to connect the nose gear gyro in the nose to the rudder and receiver: youtube.com/watch?v=HG-U1CENdsQ)
CH 5: Landing Gear (connected to the nose gear gyro with one of the servo extensions mentioned in CH 4)
CH 6 (AUX 1): Flaps
CH 7 (AUX 2): Left Aileron (this setup facilitates full span flaps)
CH 8 (AUX 3): Right Aileron (this setup facilitates full span flaps)
CH 9 (AUX 4): Variable Wing Sweep (Switch C, put this switch on your left hand, so that you maintain constant control of pitch & roll on the right. Also connect this to your flight modes using the RC Geek setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jyhcCBc0mk )
CH 10 (AUX 5): Thrust Reverse (As mentioned use Switch F to keep this on the right hand, so that your left hand maintains constant control on the ground)
CH 11 (AUX 6): Gain Channel Adjustment on Left Slider (This is a ghost channel that doesn't require a receiver port. I set my gains to 80ail/90ele/100rud and they must be adjustable on the slider. When in slow flight the slider is far right at high gains for stability, but once gear and flaps are going up for fast flight I turn it down to about 40% of the slider when in fast flight.

If you need the mixes, let me know, or you can see the initial setup in RC Geek's video.

As for programming instructions for reverse, just plug the Y-harnessed lead into AUX 5 and ensure your switch goes from 100 to -100. That will turn reverse on and off.

[Having Fun]

Thank you Dougcarr73! I just want to make sure I have this straight before I plug anything in. Do I "Y" cable the two throttle leads and still have the reverse functionality? Or, do I disable the middle lead to the throttle on one of the ESCs? where did you find the programming instructions?
Thank you!!

[Elbee]

Dougcarr73 Whoa, great intel, Sir. I thank you. Best, LB

[Dougcarr73]

I put upgraded motors in mine and used the MiG29 ESCs with separate SBEC and additional capacitors, already fabricated and pretty much a drop-in install.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...set-084d002001

Having Fun, the AVIAN ESCs are overkill for this model, because you will have to use a Y-Harness and Y-Harnesses negate the telemetry and programming benefits of owning an AVIAN. AVIANs also mean no afterburner because the Y-Harness creates issues there. You could make it work if you have a separate channel for the second ESC and a separate channel for your burner; however, that limits all the other fun stuff you can do with this aircraft.
Kallend’s recommendation is ok, I’ve used it; however, if you want the latest equipment with the most functionality, such as reverse, use the 100A ESC that comes with the new F9F. I ordered 2 of the same motor you’re planning on using (3658-2100kv), but I also ordered version 2 of Kallend’s recommendation. Here’s the link at RC Castle where they have it all in stock. Mine shipped already and I ordered it yesterday. This setup pushes 200g more thrust than the next best FMS 3665-2000KV motor; however, it’s a drop in fit unlike the FMS that requires some foam shaving for a clean fit. (https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...oduct_id=10340).

[kallend]

I just purchased a Freewing F-14 without any power systems because I am going to install the 2100 KV motors. I am looking to upgrade Avian 100 amp ESCs. Do I need to disconnect the middle BEC circuit on one of the ESCs?

That is generally recommended if you're running two ESCs with integrated BECs.

I put upgraded motors in mine and used the MiG29 ESCs with separate SBEC and additional capacitors, already fabricated and pretty much a drop-in install.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-80mm-edf-mig-29-100a-escs-with-8a-ubec-set-084d002001

[Having Fun]

I just purchased a Freewing F-14 without any power systems because I am going to install the 2100 KV motors. I am looking to upgrade Avian 100 amp ESCs. Do I need to disconnect the middle BEC circuit on one of the ESCs?

[Elbee]

Here are close up pics of where I had to cut to make the gear fit, also had to produce a flat perpendicular to the flat on the pin for the retract set screws. Used 4 washers so the spring pivot hooks could clear the retract. I might add a couple more I haven't decided yet, the rear does sit alittle lower than I would like. But in a nutshell that's what I did to install these

Thanks, I can see the difference. You also added some reinforcement. Not certain how I will approach trying to hide the lower portion of the wheel/tire. Cross that bridge when I get there. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Here are close up pics of where I had to cut to make the gear fit, also had to produce a flat perpendicular to the flat on the pin for the retract set screws. Used 4 washers so the spring pivot hooks could clear the retract. I might add a couple more I haven't decided yet, the rear does sit alittle lower than I would like. But in a nutshell that's what I did to install these

[rifleman_btx]

I'll get some pics in a bit, when I put them on I didn't think about the camera. I was thinking it was just a drop in fit, and it wasn't. I flew it today, and they handled the moonscape of the bastrop field quite well. I have a on board video of the landing it really took the bumps well

[Elbee]

I got the phantom mains in, had to do quite alot of modifications to get them to fit, including 4 washer spacers and a little foam cutting to get them in

RM, do you have any pictures of your mod?

Also, what advantages are you seeing with the Phantom MG?

I've been thinking about what to do (if anything) to the MG when I start my build.

Inquisitively, LB

[rifleman_btx]

I made a piece that modified the 80mm A-10 trailing link nose gear for trailing link main gear for my F-14 (Freewing F-14 Trailing Link Mod for A-10 Trailing Link Nose Gear by rlcamden - Thingiverse). I have not had any issues with a PETG 3D printed part. I did have a friend mill one from aircraft aluminum, but the PETG test has worked for almost two years. I have heard someone say the 90mm Phantom mains are a direct replacement. I haven't had the need to check that. I fly off grass with no issues.

Well I got the phantom mains in, had to do quite alot of modifications to get them to fit, including 4 washer spacers and a little foam cutting to get them in

[rlcamden]

I’m very glad I did the RCInformer shoulder plate upgrade. Last time I had the Tomcat out I damaged the right main gear; not the strut but the retract itself developed for and aft play to an unacceptable tolerance.

I remember someone posting about a landing gear upgrade and I can’t remember what that was and where it was posted. But if anyone remembers I’d appreciate it :). I’ll swap for stock for now, but I’d really like an upgrade set which can handle a bit more weight on grass. I’ll mention I’m flying on 5000mAh packs and the vertical isn’t what I’d hoped for. She rises off grass in about 200’ which is good, but I feel I need to be more present in the power for most of the flight to keep her stable. I also really need to work on the radio program, tail only on wings extended is not enough roll rate.

I made a piece that modified the 80mm A-10 trailing link nose gear for trailing link main gear for my F-14 (Freewing F-14 Trailing Link Mod for A-10 Trailing Link Nose Gear by rlcamden - Thingiverse). I have not had any issues with a PETG 3D printed part. I did have a friend mill one from aircraft aluminum, but the PETG test has worked for almost two years. I have heard someone say the 90mm Phantom mains are a direct replacement. I haven't had the need to check that. I fly off grass with no issues.

[kallend]

Sorry if it reads that way. I actually hope there is no issue at all. The last thing I want to do is have to figure out something else with this plane before it ever hits the air. I asked here because there is a larger concentration of users for this plane than the place it was being discussed when the frustrations were aired.

I haven't heard of any such issue.

[Evan D]

Look on RC Groups too. Big thread there.

You can't cut and paste the frustrations?

[dk91105]

With respect it looks like you are trying more to say there is a problem, more than ask if we've had a problem. The actuator is a modified retract unit designed to do what it does. I don't remember hearing anyone have any issues though as with anything I'm sure there is a failure rate. When FW designed the F-14 they tested it with asymmetrical sweep and found it controllable, I don't remember if it was called perfectly controllable or not. I do know at least one person broke the lug off the wing root because the actuator has so much power. It was his fault as he actuated it not having adjusted the pushrod properly. I think I remember another that broke a lug in flight and landed it no problem. I also know one person posted pictures of a bent control arm on the actuator when the wing was asked to move and it was blocked so I think the weakest link is the lug and second weakest is the aluminum arm. I also know more than a few have landed theirs with the wings swept.

I think you are looking for a non existing problem. If you do get more info I would like to hear about it.

Sorry if it reads that way. I actually hope there is no issue at all. The last thing I want to do is have to figure out something else with this plane before it ever hits the air. I asked here because there is a larger concentration of users for this plane than the place it was being discussed when the frustrations were aired.

[Evan D]

With respect it looks like you are trying more to say there is a problem, more than ask if we've had a problem. The actuator is a modified retract unit designed to do what it does. I don't remember hearing anyone have any issues though as with anything I'm sure there is a failure rate. When FW designed the F-14 they tested it with asymmetrical sweep and found it controllable, I don't remember if it was called perfectly controllable or not. I do know at least one person broke the lug off the wing root because the actuator has so much power. It was his fault as he actuated it not having adjusted the pushrod properly. I think I remember another that broke a lug in flight and landed it no problem. I also know one person posted pictures of a bent control arm on the actuator when the wing was asked to move and it was blocked so I think the weakest link is the lug and second weakest is the aluminum arm. I also know more than a few have landed theirs with the wings swept.

I think you are looking for a non existing problem. If you do get more info I would like to hear about it.

Is there a known issue with the wing sweep actuators? I know they are actually retract mechanisms. Ive been hearing some bad things about them in another group. Couple of guys have lost their planes trying to land with an asymmetrical wing condition because one of the actuators failed in flight. I'm looking for input here before I spend a couple of hundred on a work around.


It's FB group chat so I don't have any specifics unfortunately. I tried to dig out what the parameters around the failures were but didn't get anywhere.


It got me thinking though, the way the wings are moved during flight, going into the swept position is the easiest because they are being helped along by drag. How much force do you think it takes to pull them back to normal position during flight? Airspeed would certainly be a factor, the faster you're going the more force required. It couldn't be a ton as the mechanism doing the work wasn't even designed for this application.

[dk91105]

No. Only asymmetrical I’ve heard of was when someone broke the pushrod connection at the wing root.

Got a link to all these issues?

It's FB group chat so I don't have any specifics unfortunately. I tried to dig out what the parameters around the failures were but didn't get anywhere.


It got me thinking though, the way the wings are moved during flight, going into the swept position is the easiest because they are being helped along by drag. How much force do you think it takes to pull them back to normal position during flight? Airspeed would certainly be a factor, the faster you're going the more force required. It couldn't be a ton as the mechanism doing the work wasn't even designed for this application.

[rifleman_btx]

I was gonna say, with all my flights I have on mine, I never had any issues with my wing units failing. As I do fly off grass, they still operate as they should, and I sweep them all the time.

[Evan D]

No. Only asymmetrical I’ve heard of was when someone broke the pushrod connection at the wing root.

Got a link to all these issues?

[dk91105]

Is there a known issue with the wing sweep actuators? I know they are actually retract mechanisms. Ive been hearing some bad things about them in another group. Couple of guys have lost their planes trying to land with an asymmetrical wing condition because one of the actuators failed in flight. I'm looking for input here before I spend a couple of hundred on a work around.