Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread

[themudduck]

I cut my wires and then soldered them together to a spare plug that goes into the dual stage slot on the blue box. Works perfect!

This is just a backup to my previous post, what CRXMANPAT said is exactly what I did. Two white wires spliced together than into a 3-wire connector. But I think my picture is better than his!!! LOL

[Evan D]

Brent bypassed the ribbon cable with an extension...

[crxmanpat]

Yeah, I thought the only two ways to do it were to bypass the wing board and run extensions to a Y to the dual stage door slot, or cut the wires like I described.

[GliderGuy]

Based on prior posts, I decided to upgrade to the MKS HV69 high torque servos. Mainly because they are an exact dimension match and with higher torque at 4.8V than the MRC upgrades. They also are spec’d to function down to 2.7V in case the voltage gets low in the tail. Torque Spec is 6kg-cm at 4.8V.

I decided against manually re-wiring one HV69 servo to reverse it, so I also ordered a Futaba SR-10 servo reverser (I have a 6 ch Futaba TX/RX). Some have suggested against reversers, some say “no issues”. The SR-10 was more expensive than the el cheapo reversers, and I have had good luck with Futaba for like....forever.

The HV69 servos have a 25 tooth 6 mm output spline but a smaller servo arm screw and thinner servo arm. The servo arm from the MRC upgrades won’t fit on the HV69. MKS does make an aluminum arm option which I will order.

Bottom line, I took out the one positive MRC upgrade servo and the upgrade MRC servo which I had to manually rewire/reverse because my upgrade kit had 2 positive servos in it. AND....I added a reverser + increased the torque and also got a lower min voltage spec for functionality. I am more comfortable, now.

Still am not gonna put flaps down at high speed!

-GG

EDITS:
#1 Correction: The min working voltage is 3.8V not 2.7V as originally stated.
#2 Correction: The MRC upgrade servo horn WILL FIT on the MKS HV69 output spline. It’s just a VERY tight fit. Both are 25T 6 mm.

[Evan D]

I don’t trust reverser’s...

[Jet jocky]

I don't trust reversers either!!!

[xviper]

Yeah, I thought the only two ways to do it were to bypass the wing board and run extensions to a Y to the dual stage door slot, or cut the wires like I described.

I preferred to cut the wires on the ribbon cable at the board and join the two wires into a single servo connector. Using extensions just makes yet another connection when putting the wing on (X2).

[xviper]

Trust in servo reversers is a personal thing. I've used them whenever needed for years and so far, not a single failure. I guess I'm just waiting for my turn?

[Jet jocky]

Someone did a red strobe light mod on the canopy hatch does anyone now who did it and have some pics and info on how to do it?

[RCjetdude]

Yeah, I thought the only two ways to do it were to bypass the wing board and run extensions to a Y to the dual stage door slot, or cut the wires like I described.

I stand corrected. The wing connector board only has pins for the single stage doors so you do have to bypass it to go to the MCB-E double stage pins. I got confused and spoke without confirming first. My apologies.

[Lcacing]

Someone did a red strobe light mod on the canopy hatch does anyone now who did it and have some pics and info on how to do it?

I did it on mine, the blue box has some empty slots for led’. Find a place to install the led and plug it into the spare slot. There is a double and triple flash to choose from.

https://youtu.be/byWQym3MZkc

[GliderGuy]

Someone did a red strobe light mod on the canopy hatch does anyone now who did it and have some pics and info on how to do it?

Select a BRIGHT one or you won’t see it at a distance when you need it to help with orientation.

I pulled one off the A-10 wing...nice lens, and it is a DayBrite LED. Pre-sunrise and post-sunset flights have proven its worth on many such flights.

Installed behind the hatch latch. Blue box light option of your choice.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

Trust in servo reversers is a personal thing. I've used them whenever needed for years and so far, not a single failure. I guess I'm just waiting for my turn?

Yep...With my 6 ch, a reverser is my only option if I don’t want to tear into a new servo and re-wire it.

I did that with the MRC upgrade, and would rather not. Or....Buy a new 8 Ch radio set up (not planning to).

Gonna take the chance. The documentation with the reverser indicate it is a 2007 product. I figure if Futaba was having problems with it, they would not still be selling it. I ordered it direct from Futaba.

-GG

[crxmanpat]

Someone did a red strobe light mod on the canopy hatch does anyone now who did it and have some pics and info on how to do it?

I did it as well. Just took a spare LED I had stripped out of a crashed plane and installed it in the canopy hatch. Just plug into the blue box and you're good to go! I have mine on the double flash port.

[xviper]

Yep...With my 6 ch, a reverser is my only option if I don’t want to tear into a new servo and re-wire it.

-GG

I've seen the YouTube video on how to do this. I don't trust my own handy work tearing into a tiny servo. I'd rather trust someone's else's work when it comes to a reverser.

[Scale Master]

Flew my Mig-29 turbine conversion today. 4 good flights. Jet flies great. Look forward to getting more sorties on it soon.

Flight report here:

https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/12645239-post41.html

Only iPhone available. Focus gets better at 0:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCf...ature=emb_logo

Please please please! I've been trying to get the centerline tank you have for fuel printed because I don't have a 3d printer. I keep reaching out via PM but no response from the creator. Can you get ahold of him got me?

-Thanks

[Hugh Wiedman]

Yep...With my 6 ch, a reverser is my only option if I don’t want to tear into a new servo and re-wire it.

I did that with the MRC upgrade, and would rather not. Or....Buy a new 8 Ch radio set up (not planning to).

Gonna take the chance. The documentation with the reverser indicate it is a 2007 product. I figure if Futaba was having problems with it, they would not still be selling it. I ordered it direct from Futaba.

-GG

Hey, Chris with RC Geek upgraded his elevator servos on the Mig with the Hitec D85's, a drop in fit, which has a torque range of 60 oz./in. Hitec also has aluminum servo arms you can get. These servo's are programmable, assuming you have the $79 HFP-30 Hitec Servo programmer, so no reverser needed. At about $39 per servo, sounds like a decent option. I use Hitec in all my Extreme Flight 3D planes and have never had a problem. I know the MKS HV69 you are using are excellent servos and offer an even higher stall torque at 4.8v of about 84 oz-in and cost about $55 per servo, but what I don't know is if they are programmable so you can reverse them.

[GliderGuy]

Hi Hugh - The HV69 is not programmable.

Thanks for the inputs. Seeing the results of Firebird’s testing confirming the potential for getting lower voltage in the rear, the 3.8 V min working spec of the HV69 drove me to buy them. Probably Not much torque at that voltage, but they still function.

Not that one would ever see that low a voltage back there.....but less than 4.8V has been confirmed by Firebird.

-GG

[viper1gj]

Please please please! I've been trying to get the centerline tank you have for fuel printed because I don't have a 3d printer. I keep reaching out via PM but no response from the creator. Can you get ahold of him got me?
-Thanks

I sent him your message. Sorry I don't have a 3D printer either.
Gary

[Jet jocky]

Thanks crxmanpat.