Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Hugh Wiedman]

Thanks for the PSA davegee and I am glad the damage was minor! Speaking of "special bondo" care to share what you use? I am always on the lookout for effective repair product.

Me Too! Hopefully it comes by the Gallon!

[davegee]

Thanks for the PSA davegee and I am glad the damage was minor! Speaking of "special bondo" care to share what you use? I am always on the lookout for effective repair product.

It looked nasty, at first, but when I got up to it, not so bad! Lucky!

I use Evercoat Metal Glaze, polyester finishing and blending putty. I think it is available in most good auto paint stores, and on Amazon, too. It comes in two parts the bag of putty, and then a hardener, which comes in a small tube and you mix like epoxy. You just need a small amount of the hardener and then use a popsicle stick or something like that to stir it thoroughly. For me, I find when I mix it if it is a light blue color, that's just about right.

Working time pretty short (5 minutes or so), depending too on how much blue hardener you add to it, and ambient temperature of your work area. But I've been using it for 15 years or more. And it works well on foam, too. Light wet sanding and you are ready to prime/paint!

davegee

[xviper]

Since I got this plane, I would say that my successful flight to non-successful flight rate is about 1 in 2. IE, everytime I fly this plane, I either have a mishap on take off or landing. I take several planes to the field every time I go, so each plane gets flown twice. Yesterday was the first day I managed to get TWO perfect flights. My average is improving. I have the stock gyro on a master gain and I fly it at full stock rates for take off and landing, while I dial it down just a hair during the main part of the flight. I also use an Assan steering gyro and this has made the take off very predictable. The biggest difference yesterday was that it was relatively calm and I made sure the master gain was at full. I think those two things are key to having a good flight compared to having one where I need to take it home and fix something.
Oddly enough, one of the guys at the field was more impressed with the stock shipping box that I use to transport the plane in.

[GliderGuy]

Hi Xviper,

Yep….that’s one secret for trouble-free B-2 flying….less than 5 knots of wind and no cross wind is the other secret.

I’ve been going out at sunrise on many recent days with heat advisories. Been able to get in 8-10 flights before it gets too warm…..and in nice light winds, too. First flights are about 10 min before sunrise. She looks VERY cool all lit up in the pre-dawn light.

if the breeze begins to blow, I stop.

An added benefit…she lands sooo easily as you hold her off as long as possible in ground effect . Like a three-point Cub landing. Lots of times, touching the mains when reaching full up elevator.

-GG

[Evan D]

So cool GG!

[xviper]

Hi Xviper,

Yep….that’s one secret for trouble-free B-2 flying….less than 5 knots of wind and no cross wind is the other secret.
-GG

(Like the old Monkeys song) .......................... "I'm a believer". On calm days, I will be far less reluctant to take the B2 with me.

[Aros]

It looked nasty, at first, but when I got up to it, not so bad! Lucky!

I use Evercoat Metal Glaze, polyester finishing and blending putty. I think it is available in most good auto paint stores, and on Amazon, too. It comes in two parts the bag of putty, and then a hardener, which comes in a small tube and you mix like epoxy. You just need a small amount of the hardener and then use a popsicle stick or something like that to stir it thoroughly. For me, I find when I mix it if it is a light blue color, that's just about right.

Working time pretty short (5 minutes or so), depending too on how much blue hardener you add to it, and ambient temperature of your work area. But I've been using it for 15 years or more. And it works well on foam, too. Light wet sanding and you are ready to prime/paint!

davegee

Thanks Dave!

[GliderGuy]

Aros - Here’s a similar product that is VERY white. Fairly short work time, as well. Wet sands well.

White Marine-Tex (Amazon)

https://a.co/d/3ol71cc

Somewhat expensive, but worth it. Instructions don’t recommend cutting to smaller portions, but you can.

-GG

[davegee]

Aros - Here’s a similar product that is VERY white. Fairly short work time, as well. Wet sands well.

White Marine-Tex (Amazon)

https://a.co/d/3ol71cc

Somewhat expensive, but worth it. Instructions don’t recommend cutting to smaller portions, but you can.

-GG

That's no more expensive I think than the Evercoat that I use. There are probably several good fillers and spackles out there for foam, including these two suggestions.

I've had some minor issues with some gatoring when in the sun even for just a few minutes, especially on places that I had put the Evercoat. Not sure if it might be related to increasing the gatoring, but I'm looking into it with some experiments. But with this intense sun up here, warm summer temperatures, and dark flat coloring, it's very wise to be as careful as possible to limit its exposure to those elements to prevent the gatoring, or keeping it to a minimum. Because of that, I fly very early in the mornings, sometimes late afternoon or evenings before the sun goes down during these dog days of summer.

Cheers

davegee

[Elbee]

I am not a chemist or even play one on TV, so anyone with any real knowledge, please help me, but I just keep thinking EPO foam is a chemical plastic and that gatoring certainly is heat related, so how do we prevent a breakdown? I figure all we can do is insulate the foam from both the heat and solvents. I have also noticed that many solvents have a similar effect on EPA.

My theory would be heat and solvents breakdown the chemical adhesion between the foam beads (for lack of a better description) and the adhesion or chemical bond (again for lack of a better term) evaporates or shrinks leaving the 'bead'. When filling these areas, I have also used lacquer based automotive putties, though these will breakdown the foam similarly if used too thickly. I remembering watching a vid by Rich the RCInformer and he had used Foam Tack a bit too heavily in an enclosed area of his Freewing F-14 and those solvents actually ate away some of the foam.

Not certain if there is an answer to eliminating the gatoring especially on darkly finished models, but my best results have come from using good ol' Minwax Polycrylic as the basecoat, a couple light coats of primer, sand, and outdoor latex as the color finish. I have even added matte clear on top of the latex with no ill effects to the latex.

Also, I watched a series of videos that the Chris the RC Geek did and the finishes were spectacular and he admitted that with all he had done he still has had 'gatoring' issues.

All that written, every black and dark gray colors on my aircraft have still gatored some. I believe I am going to have to buy shares in the Coppertone Corporation to afford all the sunblock needed for my tri-color Corsair. I have used acrylic paints with the same pre-paint prep, but pretty sure that acrylic won't provide the same sun barrier characteristics that the latex does.

We will see. Best, LB

[T-CAT]

I am not a chemist or even play one on TV, so anyone with any real knowledge, please help me, but I just keep thinking EPO foam is a chemical plastic and that gatoring certainly is heat related, so how do we prevent a breakdown? I figure all we can do is insulate the foam from both the heat and solvents. I have also noticed that many solvents have a similar effect on EPA.

My theory would be heat and solvents breakdown the chemical adhesion between the foam beads (for lack of a better description) and the adhesion or chemical bond (again for lack of a better term) evaporates or shrinks leaving the 'bead'. When filling these areas, I have also used lacquer based automotive putties, though these will breakdown the foam similarly if used too thickly. I remembering watching a vid by Rich the RCInformer and he had used Foam Tack a bit too heavily in an enclosed area of his Freewing F-14 and those solvents actually ate away some of the foam.

Not certain if there is an answer to eliminating the gatoring especially on darkly finished models, but my best results have come from using good ol' Minwax Polycrylic as the basecoat, a couple light coats of primer, sand, and outdoor latex as the color finish. I have even added matte clear on top of the latex with no ill effects to the latex.

Also, I watched a series of videos that the Chris the RC Geek did and the finishes were spectacular and he admitted that with all he had done he still has had 'gatoring' issues.

All that written, every black and dark gray colors on my aircraft have still gatored some. I believe I am going to have to buy shares in the Coppertone Corporation to afford all the sunblock needed for my tri-color Corsair. I have used acrylic paints with the same pre-paint prep, but pretty sure that acrylic won't provide the same sun barrier characteristics that the latex does.

We will see. Best, LB

I know what you mean and how you feel. Unfortunately, from my experience I haven't seen a way to completely prevent EPO foam from the surface issue of the gator/popcorn look. Now I just try to select liveries (obviously a plane like the B-2 and similar aircraft, there aren't many options of scale liveries that aren't dark paints, ha-ha) to paint that have less chance (or potentially less severe effects) of experiencing the issues (gatoring/popcorning of the foam finish) with the heat and sun exposure, which are to use lighter paint colors and to constantly be aware of not leaving the aircraft in the direct sunlight and heat when it's not being flown. In the past, I would do a bit more work on refinishing EPO foam aircraft, but I can't justify the extra time and effort to do so anymore simply because there isn't a guarantee that the foam will remain nice looking.

[Aros]

I sure wish tech would advance past this Popcorn/Gator effect. It's one of the biggest eyesores in the hobby for us foam flyers. No matter how well we take precautions, it always seems like eventually the Gator Monster is going to get our birds to some degree or another. I know, First World problems.

[T-CAT]

I sure wish tech would advance past this Popcorn/Gator effect. It's one of the biggest eyesores in the hobby for us foam flyers. No matter how well we take precautions, it always seems like eventually the Gator Monster is going to get our birds to some degree or another. I know, First World problems.

Ha-ha, yep. Maybe there could be an EPO Foam gator/popcorn syndrome called “Foamchology”, the psychological effects of the EPO foam on its project owner regarding the foams current Sun and heat behavior.

[kallend]

Every one of my EPO models has gatored to some extent.

I have three older EPS models, none of which have gatored despite being older and probably having more Sun exposure.

[davegee]

Every one of my EPO models has gatored to some extent.

I have three older EPS models, none of which have gatored despite being older and probably having more Sun exposure.

Possibly some of that lesser gatoring effect from the sun on your airplanes might stem from your lower altitude that you fly from. I can tell you out West at 5-6,000 feet MSL, it can and is brutal at this time of year!

Regards,

davegee

[Evan D]

EPS just doesn’t gator like EPO.

[kallend]

Possibly some of that lesser gatoring effect from the sun on your airplanes might stem from your lower altitude that you fly from. I can tell you out West at 5-6,000 feet MSL, it can and is brutal at this time of year!

Regards,

davegee

But regardless of altitude, the EPO models have gatored and the EPS ones haven't.

[davegee]

But regardless of altitude, the EPO models have gatored and the EPS ones haven't.

You may have a point there, Kallend. I only have experience with EPO foams, I don't think I've flown or tested EPS foams. You'd be a better judge of that since you have worked with both.

Regards,

davegee

[radfordc]

Some pics the top wing surfaces of three of my planes. The E-flite Su-30 and Freewing Mig-29 are EPO and the Freewing Su-35 is EPS. All were coated with clear water based polyurethane varnish in either gloss or matte finish. The "quality" of EPO is better IMO....much smoother and more durable. The EPS plane shows a much rougher finish out of the box with many "divots" between the individual foam cells. And of course the EPS plane has much more hangar rash just from handling the model a bit too rough. The Su-30 and Su-35 have been flown many times and the Mig is still new with only a few flights.

[Go4it]

Has anyone removed the EDF from the B-2 bomber?