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Official Freewing 90mm F-16 Falcon Thread

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  • Ks.jetflyer
    replied
    After 7 flights and 7 arrivals, I finally gave up and sold it. I tried different cg locations, different landing approaches with no success. Been flying edfs for many years, never had one humble me this bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aros
    replied
    I agree, not the easiest model (this particular model) to fly. I had some real clunkers for landings my first few attempts...Bone stock. To the point I started questioning my skill level! LOL!

    However, I have come to understand that this model is very heavy and requires a better power plant than stock to match her weight. And landings are particular with this one. AoA and throttle management are huge factors (flaperons are definitely helpful) as well. Once I got it down, it was fine, but boy, not a 90mm to recommend as a first 90mm that's for sure.

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  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

    Great, it's certainly not the easiest EDF to fly, but it sure looks outstanding in the air, a real iconic profile.


    Once you get it dialed in and the landings down it is a real easy jet to fly actually, it will turn and burn with the best of them, I fly mine maybe a little to hard, seem to get a little flex in mine right at the wing to fuselage mounting points....

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by Aros View Post
    Good stuff Hugh! This info will help me when I do get another one and put an inrunner in it...
    Great, it's certainly not the easiest EDF to fly, but it sure looks outstanding in the air, a real iconic profile.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aros
    replied
    Good stuff Hugh! This info will help me when I do get another one and put an inrunner in it...

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Finally got a chance to "re-maiden" the F-16. A week ago I took out the Wild Weasel version and could not get it to take-off the grass runway without flaps. Messed around with the CG and ended up way too far back (135mm) which didn't help the lift off at all. So yesterday, changed the tail to the Arkansas Razorback version, move the CG back to 120mm and took off with 1/2 flaps. Worked outstanding. It's not the easiest jet to fly, but when you get it dialed in with the upgraded in-runner EDF, it performs very nicely. I found for me, reducing the aileron deflection by 25% from book and increasing elevator deflection by 35% gives me my preferred flight envelope. I did have to increase the neutral position of the elevator up an additional 2mm to fly level. The location of the battery fore or way aft didn't change the elevator neutral position much (about 1mm), and moving the battery didn't help take-off at all (must use flaps), but moving the battery behind 123mm cg sure made it pitch up when power is reduce for landing. So the moral of my story is keep the cg around 120 (or less) and if you fly off of grass, use flaps.

    Next time out I'll try the Lone Star Gunfighter tail, or the Wisconsin fighter wing.

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  • Holeshot922
    replied
    Anyone have a new or like new grey one for sale? Looking to buy, PayPal ready!

    Thank you

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    As I mentioned in the thread "What did you fly today", I finally got the maiden in with 4 additional flights. It was a real Handful! Installed the upgraded inrunner, and balanced at 118mm and without flaps, I couldn't get it to leave the deck on a grass runway (no wind). After getting it in the air at that cg, I needed 97 clicks of up elevator (starting at the recommended neutral point of the manual). Each flight I moved the battery back until by flight 5, I was at 135mm cg. Moving the battery only slightly help taking off but even at that point it needed 55 clicks of up elevator. Of course that tail heavy made landing near impossible because as I reduced power to touchdown, the nose pitched up violently and came down hard.

    So as anyone been able to take off of a grass field without flaps using the upgraded inrunner?

    Leave a comment:


  • Phantom
    replied
    If only Mav had VT, goose could have been saved!

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  • thisguy65
    replied
    Didn't they learn this is how goose died?...flat spin

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  • Phantom
    replied
    F-16 with thrust vectoring



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  • FiscalJackhammer
    replied
    Worked up the courage and did a vertical stab this evening. Learned a lot. That servo makes it a pain.



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  • 747electric
    replied
    Thank you Hugh for all your help, really really really appreciate it. Will order the parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    When you order the Freewing 130amp ESC, make sure you get the one for the F-16 as that has the correct cable lengths (they make a bunch of 130amp ESC's for different jets with appropriate cable lengths). The correct SKU # is 012D002001. When you install the ESC, you will find a rectangular piece of marine plywood in the "extra parts" bag with a hole at each end. This is used to "strap" the ESC in place. All their jets use this to hold the ESC in place. I found it a bit flimsy in the other jets I have (the Castle I put in my F-16 has a base plate with 4 mounting holes so it "bolts" in), so in those jets I made an identical piece out of aluminum so I could screw it down tight without breaking a wooden strap.

    Make sure you connect the servo lead that comes directly from the ESC into the blue circuit board labeled throttle (I think it is the third pin) and the lead coming from the BEC must go into any open port directly into the receiver (you can use the bind port if you have already bound your receiver, or use a y-connector for both). You may need some servo extensions for either of these leads, not sure if you do. Good luck.

    The EDF I recommended is the 12 blade 4068-1835kV inrunner, SKU: E72210. It's $158, which is twice as much as the stock EDF , but I think it's worth it. It's a direct drop in fit, so no modifications are needed to install it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by 747electric View Post
    I don't feel bad about asking stupid questions because they call me stupid.lol......I just checked the electric fan motor....there is none...opps..
    .I thought I ordered complete kit but ordered the ARF PLUS....so yea...call me stupid..its ok:)lol....my next question is the ESC to use.....I ordered my kit thru MotionRc....should I just get what they recommended or go with you???....the god of ESC's and experience....:)
    I ain't no god, but I do have some recommendations on the ESC and motor. As long as you got the ARF, take the opportunity to get the upgraded 12 blade EDF 4068-1835kV Inrunner instead of the stock EDF. Costs a bit more, but is more efficient and gives a little more speed if you like that sort of thing (I got it for the efficiency only, a little more flying time). As far as the ESC is concerned, DO NOT order the 155amp gecko that they recommend in the upgrades. I initially got it and it sucks (in my opinion) big time, with major timing issues that cause the throttle to go dead at random times (wow, that sounds like something we all need). I returned it and got the Castle Creations 130amp ESC Phoenix Edge and also a separate Castle 10amp BEC because I have very good luck with Castle. For you though, I would recommend the stock 130amp ESC that comes with the PNP version which everyone says works great with this upgraded fan and costs less than the Castle ESC and BEC. All connectors are already soldered on the stock ESC (EC5 and bullet connectors for the motor), so you can just drop everything in. With the Castle, you would need to solder EC5 connectors on the power cables and bullet connectors on the motor cables, which is a little tricky as the wire gauges on the ESC are larger than the EC5 male pins and the 4mm bullet connectors. Although if you have all the necessary blank EC5 pins and female 4mm bullet connectors and are good at making these, the Castle is a fine ESC (in my opinion, others have had problems and call it the Castle Cremations ESC).

    You'll need to remove the top air vent (it's only glued on) in order to get access to the area that the ESC needs to mount on and also remove the fuselage casing (2 screws) around the fan to install that. Attached a picture of that area with the vents removed and with the new ESC and motor installed if that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Leave a comment:


  • 747electric
    replied
    I will order the Castle ESC and 10amp BEC

    Leave a comment:


  • 747electric
    replied
    Herei is the ESC's.....
    F-16C Super Scale 90mm EDF Jet -ARF PLUS from Freewing - FJ30611K+

    Leave a comment:


  • 747electric
    replied
    Also, what is the advantage of running two 6S 4000 batteries compared to 1 6S 5000mah? Will running two batteries give you longer flight times?

    Leave a comment:


  • 747electric
    replied
    I don't feel bad about asking stupid questions because they call me stupid.lol......I just checked the electric fan motor....there is none...opps..
    .I thought I ordered complete kit but ordered the ARF PLUS....so yea...call me stupid..its ok:)lol....my next question is the ESC to use.....I ordered my kit thru MotionRc....should I just get what they recommended or go with you???....the god of ESC's and experience....:)

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by 747electric View Post
    I should open up the lower compartments to the motor and trace the wires back to the ESC....for some reason the ESC is well hidden.
    Which version did you buy, the ARF or the PNP. If you bought the PNP, the red/black power cables from the ESC with the male (blue) connector should be right there at the back of the battery tray, clearly visible. The ESC is not really hidden, flip the fuselage over and you should see it through the vents, just in front of the EDF. Of course, if you bought the ARF, then it did not come with an ESC (which also has the power cables and throttle connections to the receiver) or the EDF fan. In that case, you will also need to purchase an EDF and ESC, then remove the bottom casing where the fan goes and also have to remove the vents which are glued on in order to mount an ESC. If you still have problems locating the battery connection cables that come wired into the ESC and you did purchase a PNP version, then maybe in packing they tucked the cables down the fuselage for shipping, but I doubt it. Let me know if you ended up with the ARF version, as I might be able to give you some advice on what else you need (just finishing up my ARF and got the upgrade in-runner fan but purchased Motion's recommended crappy Gecko ESC that now is being replaced with a Castle ESC and separate 10amp BEC-of course the stock ESC with 8amp BEC is also good).

    Don't feel bad about asking stupid questions, no one can take that title away from me!

    Leave a comment:

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