I'll have to wait 'til I get home to check further but wondering about using a setup like the FW P-38 where there is an offset at the retract instead of a straight connecting pin that offsets the gear offset bringing it back to center. Brad
-
-
O.K. I'm back home now and looking at the retracts. I'm holding the nose gear strut, which has an oleo and an offset like the mains and aside from the fact that it is too long to use for the mains it looks like it would line up just fine. I'm not sure what the problem would be with that type of strut. Please advise, BradOriginally posted by F106DeltaDart View PostComment
-
-
-
The offset oleo would work fine. A scale straight strut would be an issue though. An offset wire like the P-38 would work, but would be a major pain to bend up at this thickness. Might still be worth looking into though.Originally posted by downwindleg View PostComment
-
Those look fantastic! How did you get the wire from the strobe to the fuselage?Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostComment
-
-
I replaced the wires that came on the stobes (you can get them without wires) with some servo wire I have for making extensions and ran it along with the other wires in the channels for them. I did have to widen the channel that the existing light wires ran in nearest the wingtip as it was just too tight to fit a 3 conductor wire and the existing 2 conductor wire. I did have to cut around the light cover to be able to remove it and with the wing upside down I cut a section of the tip below and as wide as the cover to open it up so I could install the strobe. When done I just glued the piece back in place and re-secured the wire channel tape strips with a little FoamTac. I fixed any gaps or dents around the light cover and on the wingtip with Foam Filler and touched it up with some paint. On the wing joint end I had already removed the retract connector from the back side of the connector board in the wing so I just modified a couple Y-harnesses to make them really short. Plugged my strobe and retract into the harness so I still just have 1 servo connector to plug in addition to the original connector when hooking up the wings. The strobes then come on when the retracts go down and because they are both ultimately tied into the receiver they automatically sync up to flash at the same time. I am anxious to try them on a sunny day to see how they show upOriginally posted by dkalwishky View PostComment
-
The stock spring in the P-40B strut would have to be beef'd up considerably because of the weight of this A-10.Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
I have them on the FL P-38 and they(stock spring) are at the limit of their weight capacity with this airframe.
P-40B AUW - 2500g
P-38 AUW - 3150g
A-10 AUW - 5406gWarbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
-
Perhaps we should just ask then.
IE Nose gear not mains.
Hi Mark . Alpha and Aros.
Is it possible to acquire the prototype front nose gear for those that want them and make them available for purchase ? We assume that we may have to tweak a few things to make it work.
PlaneComment
-
Yeah, I only mentioned the P-40 gear as an example of a style or type of gear strut. Lacking some other solution, I would be far more tempted to modify/shorten a couple of A-10 nose gear struts in place of the trailing links. I'm hoping Steve or T.I. or some other cool innovator comes up with a strut from another MRC plane that would work and not require repositioning the retract unit itself. BradOriginally posted by OV10 View PostComment
-
Hobbyking carries a pretty wide variety of offset oleo struts. Might be a good place to start looking: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hardware...oleo-legs.html.Originally posted by downwindleg View PostComment
-
Steve........is this what your using??Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
GREEN - https://www.readymaderc.com/store/in...roducts_id=996
RED - https://www.readymaderc.com/store/in...roducts_id=997Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
-
I have used the white version of those on the top of my Mig and the ones that they call XL which have a colored LED and a white strobe on the wingtips. For the A-10 I actually used these but what you found would work to.
https://www.readymaderc.com/store/in...oducts_id=5144
which can be programmed for different flashes.
Just make sure you get the right color realizing that they do flash. The XL's have a colored light that stays on all the time with a white strobe which I have on my Stinger 90, Mig-21 and F-86. I really like how they look.Comment
-
Have a question for you, the item you linked to is about 7/8" in diameter.....how did you get that to fit behind the wingtip lense. Dont have the wing in front of me right now, but seems like that is awful large to fit in.Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostComment
-
Yeah, that is what I thought as well but it will fit. Once I opened up the area below and behind the existing lens covers I just carved some foam channels to get it to fit. There is enough thickness in the Wing tip behind the lens covers to fit it thanks to the fact that the Wing tips curve down. The other strobes they have like OV10 linked to are smaller and blink the same way. The ones I got are programmable to blink different ways and I wasn't sure how I would want them to blink in the end so I went that route. I think that no matter which one you would go with you would still have to carve some of the back edges of the lenses to get the strobe board to sit more or less flush against the back of the lens cover. When you do that then there is an issue with the terminals from the pre-existing LED contacting/shorting the components on the strobe board. I just separated them by taping over the components on the strobe board with electricians tape. Foam Tac helped secure it all together and the strobes are obviously bright enough in the lens covers that they don't have to be pushed any further forward than they can be to show up well. I hope this helps.Originally posted by Nucastle View PostComment
-
I changed the nose wheel out with a 60mm main wheel from the 90mm F-16. It is already white and I am not really concerned about the lack of bolt heads inside the rim. It is a good quality rubber tire. I did shim it just a bit to keep it centered.
Comment
-
I have two F-16's sitting here and didn't even think about trying one of the main wheels on the A-10, as you know I went with the F-14 main tire, like your idea, comes already painted so I ordered one of those too, see which one I like better....!Comment
-
I changed out my nose wheel with a JP hobbys 65mm nose wheel and changed the maines to 73mm JP hobbys with breaks. They are a little heavy but I think it's worth the weight to get the extra straight and more scale look.Comment
-
Comment