Originally posted by downwindleg
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by Elbee View Post
In today's environment I'd have to say that Tom Tullis and Mark Styling do some of the best.
Here's a link to Mark's website.
Aircraft illustration - side views, combat paintings and civil aircraft promotional / publishing work. Prints can be ordered directly from this site or commissions can be taken.
BB
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Originally posted by Beeg View Post
Yes. This book is in my "library" as well. Back in the day, or "Way back when", Rikyu Watanabe did probably the best color profile renderings. In today's environment, I'd have to say that Tom Tullis and Mark Styling do some of the best. Here's a link to Mark's website. https://www.markstyling.com/F4U_01.htmBB
ps: The Mark Styling website has many different schemes and good pilot info. If you can't find a different scheme there that's not OEM you'd like to do, I'd be surprised. Thanks again BB.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by downwindleg View PostI have the compilation called the Great Book of WWII fighters with Mr. Watanabe's renderings of 12 of the best including the Corsair as you said, P-38, F6F,P-51, etc. They include awesome cutaways and details not to be found elsewhere. Best centerfolds this side of Playboy.;)
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
Begging your pardon Cdrop20 but the base coat of most of those surfaces should be zinc chromate. It was used on almost every surface of most warbird interiors, wheel wells, cockpit interiors, etc. to cut down on oxidation. It was sort of a bright yellow/green color,not olive green. Hope that helps in a positive way. Check out the federal standard colors if your interested.
Nevermind: see edit belowLast edited by Cdrop20; Jan 2, 2019, 12:00 PM. Reason: Edit: Never mind i just looked at the above links for the interior colors and that should answer my question. Thank you for the help and input!
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Originally posted by Cdrop20 View Post
Thank you for the heads up :) Nothing a little more paint cant fix right? I will look into trying to get a better match for paint. You wouldn't happen to know what acrylic paint would best match for the base coat of a scale cockpit would you?
Nevermind: see edit below
Cdrop20, not sure which Tamiya "Olive Green" you used but the below from the IPMS article indicates you are right on.
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Dark Dull Green
Dull Dark Green was an outgrowth of Bronze Green introduced in September 1942. When introduced, Dull Dark Green was intended as a substitute/replacement for Bronze Green. There has been much confusion about the difference between the two colours. Without being conclusive, it would appear that the shades were very similar, with Bronze Green being slightly darker and semi-gloss. The sheen of Bronze Green was one reason why the all-matt alternative was sought.
When issued, the Dull Dark Green was to be used for tactical aircraft with enclosed crew cabins - i.e. bombers. However, it seems to have gained much greater popularity than intended by the ANA officials. The use of Dull Dark Green can be confirmed for cockpits of F4U Corsairs, later-production Avengers, P-51s, and P-47s as well as forward crew areas of B-17s, B-24s and B-29s. Interestingly, the use of Dull Dark Green in fighters ignored the general specifications calling for interior green in those aircraft.
Dull Dark Green was no longer included in the 1943 ANA colour standard, but the colour was still used. For example, later Erection & Maintenance manuals for the P-51D called for Dull Dark Green for certain cockpit components like seats.
FS 34092 seems to be a reasonable match for Dull Dark Green, with a comment that the original colour was slightly darker.
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This from another source as to which "Tamiya" paints best represent FS 34092/
FS 34092 Euro I Dark Green Military: United States
From: Authors personal mix To one pot of XF-26 (10ML) add 105 dr ops of XF-24 and 10 drops of XF-8.
OR
From: Model Art 236 - (F-15)
XF11 - J.N. GREEN: 3
XF58 - OLIVE GREEN: 2
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Cheers! BB
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Originally posted by Cdrop20 View Post
Thank you for the heads up :) Nothing a little more paint cant fix right? I will look into trying to get a better match for paint. You wouldn't happen to know what acrylic paint would best match for the base coat of a scale cockpit would you?
Nevermind: see edit below
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostI agree I prefer the look of the brighter zinc chromate green...But good to know there are multiple shades and it's still scale!
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by Elbee View PostAros, Is that a full-size 'scaled' cockpit, eg, there's room to use a full-body pilot? It's good to be the king. LOL Best, LB
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by fishzilla View PostHi, Can someone please post the 3d-printer files for the cockpit? I found the original post on page 2 but looks like the files have been removed. Thanks for any helpI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Folks, I have added the STL files as a ZIP file to both Corsair Support pages. You can download them here:
FlightLine F4U-1D Corsair "Bubble Top" 1600mm (63") Wingspan - PNP - FLW3041P The F4U Corsair was a carrier-based and land-based aircraft developed during WWII. Its unique inverted sea-gull wing is its distinctive feature, as well as its maneuverability and versatility to operate in many areas. Its powerful engine, proMy YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by fishzilla View PostHi, Can someone please post the 3d-printer files for the cockpit ?
I found the original post on page 2 , but looks like the files have been removed.
Thanks for any help
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FYI, Model Master acrylics does offer both a regular Zinc Oxide (no FS#) and an "Interior Green", FS34151. My challenge is finding a good color source for the "Blue Gray" of the two-toned F4U-1's (FS35189) as opposed to the "Intermediate Blue" of the three-toned F4U-1 and F4U-1A's (FS35164). Tamiya calls out a color mix for both as being the same, but clearly they are not. The fading from the sun has a huge impact on the color too, but that older blue gray (same as on the F4F Wildcats and others) is hard to find! Rob
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I am curious about the top end of this Corsair. Is it comparable to the 1600mm Spitfire?
What do you think if I used a FMS 17 inch 4 blade or the Spitfire's 16 inch 4 blade on the Corsair? What performance differences would I expect to see?
My first corsair (which I still have) is the 2nd edition Parkzone Corsair. Overtime, I put in a e-flite P25 motor and a 4 blade prop. It keeps up with most gassers and still retained its flight characteristics. I've been a corsair fan ever since. MRC, it looks as though you put everything I've wanted to see put into a corsair foamy since I started modifying my Parkzone! Wonderful!
I have your 1600 Spitfire. I'm very impressed with this plane. Looks great, great comments from the club, Impressive vertical power and so on. I do, however find myself trying to add more power. I add more throttle for more "go" and notice that my stick is at it's maximum. This is why I'm asking about top end on this model. I'm assuming that I already know the answer. I think that I wish that the plane's top end was more comparable to other 60 size warbirds.
When I purchase this corsair, I'm thinking about a later version Blue and white "Orlathe" version, which uses a 4 blade propeller, so that's why my first question.
Lastly, do you have any plans for a more realistic dummy engine? If not, I may have to spend a bit more time modifying.... :)
Thanks for in advance to your reply
SJ
I
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