Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Elbee]

Hobby Squawkers, I know many of you may consider me a neophyte which I obviously am but appreciate your patience since everyone has been a neophyte at some point in this hobby.Thanks!Grover

G54, I still can't find the correct CG sometimes and once, and yes only once, I retracted the gear on a pattern A/C while sitting on the runway. I've been at this off and on since 1980. LOL I think we are all neophytes in this as there is always much to learn. Best, LB

[Woodcock]

Hobby Squawkers,
The reason I joined this site is it popped up from a search on the FLine Corsair. Not sure where I missed it but I did not realize until a few messages in that this is a "Motion RC" owned and monitored forum. I'm a member of several forums and find them all a tremendous resource and very educational. I think HS will also be a valuable resource so if I've stepped on someone's exposed nerve forgive me.

I've been flying (RC) for a little over a year now and come up to speed fairly quickly. I now have 5 planes (Carbon Cub, Carbon Z, FMS P51, GP P-6E Hawk, FL P-38L) in the hanger and waiting to add the FLine F4U. I know many of you may consider me a neophyte which I obviously am but appreciate your patience since everyone has been a neophyte at some point in this hobby.

I fly all electric and just converted my Great Planes 78" P-6E Hawk ARF I found NIB. Though discontinued, I think this bird has become my favorite. It looks like there's not many Wood / Monokote ARF planes out there anymore and I think Motion ARFs are all foam. Does anyone out there know who makes a quality Wood / Monokote ARF like Great Planes? I welcome you input.

Thanks!
Grover

Mr Neophyte!

There are more than a few film covered wood model available. As trainer has pointed out they usually cost significantly more. But there is an up side, they are, (in my opinion) very nice models. The Flightline Corsair is arguably the nicest foamy available around. Even though BlitzRCworks has a Corsair that actually has actuated folding wings. I personally would prefer the Flightline if I needed a new one. I've never had a BlitzRCworks plane, there quality seems to be questionable, maybe someday.

If I were to buy a film covered wooden model, I would go with a Top Flight, or Hanger 9. Hobbyking has a line they call KingKraft that are wooden models. The Top Flight Corsair in terms of quality is second to none! Its big beautifully constructed and is simply a spectacular example of a Corsair. Hanger 9 is right there too, but there have been reports their last batch was assembled with brittle glue that may require some rework out of the box, the re-gluing of the structure so to speak. Because of this Horizon Hobbies had them on sale for 300 dollars. To realize what a crazy deal this is, you really just have to do some price checking on the other hanger 9 models.

To be fair all of these pre-built wooden planes cost much more than a Foamy. You have to put power, lights, landing gear, servos. etc.. All costing more money. I would say to make a Top Flight Corsair flight ready would be in the 2 - 3 K range minimum.

The Flightline Corsair is much less expensive to purchase than one of these.

So yes there are wooden planes available out there. I just bought a H-9 Hellcat last week. When I saw the $300 price tag, I couldn't pass it up. But this is the market that Flightline has chosen to storm into, "The Corsair Market".

Good luck
Woody

[Ken Smith]

Alpha, Patrick was saying he wants to weather the left wing above the gear where the maintenance guys would jump on the wing. Over time the paint would just be gone from it. Scale scale and more scale

This photo will help explain how the leading edges were so worn, look at he stand in the wing air intake.

ken

[F106DeltaDart]

Hobby Squawkers,
The reason I joined this site is it popped up from a search on the FLine Corsair. Not sure where I missed it but I did not realize until a few messages in that this is a "Motion RC" owned and monitored forum. I'm a member of several forums and find them all a tremendous resource and very educational. I think HS will also be a valuable resource so if I've stepped on someone's exposed nerve forgive me.

I've been flying (RC) for a little over a year now and come up to speed fairly quickly. I now have 5 planes (Carbon Cub, Carbon Z, FMS P51, GP P-6E Hawk, FL P-38L) in the hanger and waiting to add the FLine F4U. I know many of you may consider me a neophyte which I obviously am but appreciate your patience since everyone has been a neophyte at some point in this hobby.

I fly all electric and just converted my Great Planes 78" P-6E Hawk ARF I found NIB. Though discontinued, I think this bird has become my favorite. It looks like there's not many Wood / Monokote ARF planes out there anymore and I think Motion ARFs are all foam. Does anyone out there know who makes a quality Wood / Monokote ARF like Great Planes? I welcome you input.

Thanks!
Grover

Welcome! For the wood models, I’ve struggled to find things that meet my requirements for scale accuracy. The Hangar 9 stuff is pretty good, and have heard many nice things about their new 20cc P-51. For subjects a bit out of the ordinary, I’ve gone to kits. Just picked up the Park Scale Models kit for the Republic XF-12 Rainbow and am hoping to start building soon.

[Grover54]

Mr Neophyte!

There are more than a few film covered wood model available. As trainer has pointed out they usually cost significantly more. But there is an up side, they are, (in my opinion) very nice models. The Flightline Corsair is arguably the nicest foamy available around. Even though BlitzRCworks has a Corsair that actually has actuated folding wings. I personally would prefer the Flightline if I needed a new one. I've never had a BlitzRCworks plane, there quality seems to be questionable, maybe someday.

If I were to buy a film covered wooden model, I would go with a Top Flight, or Hanger 9. Hobbyking has a line they call KingKraft that are wooden models. The Top Flight Corsair in terms of quality is second to none! Its big beautifully constructed and is simply a spectacular example of a Corsair. Hanger 9 is right there too, but there have been reports their last batch was assembled with brittle glue that may require some rework out of the box, the re-gluing of the structure so to speak. Because of this Horizon Hobbies had them on sale for 300 dollars. To realize what a crazy deal this is, you really just have to do some price checking on the other hanger 9 models.

To be fair all of these pre-built wooden planes cost much more than a Foamy. You have to put power, lights, landing gear, servos. etc.. All costing more money. I would say to make a Top Flight Corsair flight ready would be in the 2 - 3 K range minimum.

The Flightline Corsair is much less expensive to purchase than one of these.

So yes there are wooden planes available out there. I just bought a H-9 Hellcat last week. When I saw the $300 price tag, I couldn't pass it up. But this is the market that Flightline has chosen to storm into, "The Corsair Market".

Good luck
Woody

Thank you Woody. Yes I learned very quickly that the balsa / plywood and film covered ARFs are more expensive in the long run but it gives me a chance to put myself in the build process. Make no mistake (IMO) Foamys are making great strides in quality, detail and size and hit an attractive price point so I'll continue to add them to my fleet. Thank you also for the Top Flight and Hanger 9 suggestion.

Grover

[Elbee]

G54, I learned on a balsa kit Top-Flite Headmaster Sport 40, which I rekitted twice. I loved that airframe and the heavier it got the better it flew.LOL Best, LB

[Grover54]

Woody - I just went to the Top Flight site and ran into the same ole' same ole" issue. Everything is "Unavailable" or "Back Ordered"! Hanger 9 may be a better bet. Thanks again for the recommendations!

[Woodcock]

Woody - I just went to the Top Flight site and ran into the same ole' same ole" issue. Everything is "Unavailable" or "Back Ordered"! Hanger 9 may be a better bet. Thanks again for the recommendations!

Hey mate, we probably should move this to a new thread. This one is suppose to be all about the new Flightline Corsair. Which is a really nice one coming up. Start a new thread. I'll see ya there.

Best Regards
Woody

[RCAV8R]

So I have yet to have ever made a cockpit mod (due to my being squeamish about going foam surgery)...how difficult is it to cut away what is required to put in the 3D seat, side panels and back plate and saving the pilot? Any secrets to getting off the canopy without too much damage? LB, George? How about ways to cover the top of the dash so as to prevent alligatoring? Rob

[Elbee]

So I have yet to have ever made a cockpit mod (due to my being squeamish about going foam surgery)...how difficult is it to cut away what is required to put in the 3D seat, side panels and back plate and saving the pilot? Any secrets to getting off the canopy without too much damage? LB, George? How about ways to cover the top of the dash so as to prevent alligatoring? Rob

RCAV8R, I use a stainless steel artist spatula (Right shape and very flexible) I bought at Hobby Lobby to slip between the canopy and the foam. It is longer at the tip and will give an edge to pull. There is only one way to do this and that is grit your teeth a bit and hope for the best. So far, the glue joint was hardest on the A-10, but the F-4 and Spitfire canopies came up with no real issues. I use a little of the "Foam FIller" after I remove the excess glue with my fingers, usually pulls up a little at a time. The A-10 required some surgery for the larger cockpit floor and sides. The F-4 and Spitfire are drop-in mods and I presume this will be as well. Best, LB

[Ken Smith]

These two videos should explain some of the wear patterns on the wings especially the left.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZwggEvqyWo

This one is of Ken Walsh landing at Guadalcanal

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OI14bhHzSJo

Ken

[Hiflyer]

On canopy removal I have found that a little bit of lighter fluid (naphtha) will soften the glue and make removal a snap. The naphtha does not damage the paint, but probably best to test in an inconspicuous spot to be sure in your case.

[downwindleg]

Hobby Squawkers,
The reason I joined this site is it popped up from a search on the FLine Corsair. Not sure where I missed it but I did not realize until a few messages in that this is a "Motion RC" owned and monitored forum. I'm a member of several forums and find them all a tremendous resource and very educational. I think HS will also be a valuable resource so if I've stepped on someone's exposed nerve forgive me.

I've been flying (RC) for a little over a year now and come up to speed fairly quickly. I now have 5 planes (Carbon Cub, Carbon Z, FMS P51, GP P-6E Hawk, FL P-38L) in the hanger and waiting to add the FLine F4U. I know many of you may consider me a neophyte which I obviously am but appreciate your patience since everyone has been a neophyte at some point in this hobby.

I fly all electric and just converted my Great Planes 78" P-6E Hawk ARF I found NIB. Though discontinued, I think this bird has become my favorite. It looks like there's not many Wood / Monokote ARF planes out there anymore and I think Motion ARFs are all foam. Does anyone out there know who makes a quality Wood / Monokote ARF like Great Planes? I welcome you input.

Thanks!
Grover

I'm going to let most of what you said slide Dude for three reasons: 1 your a newbie that doesn't know any better, 2 you live in the northwest probably working for Boeing:Cool:, 3 your avatar with Slim Pickens riding that Abomb down into Russia. Great movie!

[Beetlemankurt]

So I have yet to have ever made a cockpit mod (due to my being squeamish about going foam surgery)...how difficult is it to cut away what is required to put in the 3D seat, side panels and back plate and saving the pilot? Any secrets to getting off the canopy without too much damage? LB, George? How about ways to cover the top of the dash so as to prevent alligatoring? Rob

Rob, as others here have commented, it’s not too bad levering a canopy off...as long as you go slowly and hold your tongue right! Insofar as protecting exposed canopy surfaces from gatoring, I’ve also found using coloured card stock from a craft shop trimmed to the required shape and glued in with with canopy glue to work a treat. It has a nice matte finish, can be painted and the canopy glue softens the card stock enough to mould to most shapes (within reason). Some little dots of canopy glue applied with a toothpick on top of this can also pass as rivets where/if needed. Hope this helps too.

Kurt.

[Kloverzero]

Can anyone get Callie a scan of the instrument panel so she can print a decal for the instruments? I have the parts printed, but I do not have a scanner. If possible, send it to info@callie-graphics.com.

[Elbee]

Can anyone get Callie a scan of the instrument panel so she can print a decal for the instruments? I have the parts printed, but I do not have a scanner. If possible, send it to info@callie-graphics.com.

KZ, The way I understand it, the 3DPUP instrument panel overlays the decal that is already stuck to the OEM cockpit. If so, then Callie would need to get that from one of the guys that reviewed the kit, i.e., Tired Iron, I think he posted this info earlier in this thread. The 3DP instrument panel is very good and lines up okay with a couple of screenshots I've saved and the Wantanabe drawing. It would require a bit of scaling, cutting and fitting, if you were to choose not to use the OEM decal. hope this helps. Best, LB

[Laury415]

Mr Neophyte!

There are more than a few film covered wood model available. As trainer has pointed out they usually cost significantly more. But there is an up side, they are, (in my opinion) very nice models. The Flightline Corsair is arguably the nicest foamy available around. Even though BlitzRCworks has a Corsair that actually has actuated folding wings. I personally would prefer the Flightline if I needed a new one. I've never had a BlitzRCworks plane, there quality seems to be questionable, maybe someday.

If I were to buy a film covered wooden model, I would go with a Top Flight, or Hanger 9. Hobbyking has a line they call KingKraft that are wooden models. The Top Flight Corsair in terms of quality is second to none! Its big beautifully constructed and is simply a spectacular example of a Corsair. Hanger 9 is right there too, but there have been reports their last batch was assembled with brittle glue that may require some rework out of the box, the re-gluing of the structure so to speak. Because of this Horizon Hobbies had them on sale for 300 dollars. To realize what a crazy deal this is, you really just have to do some price checking on the other hanger 9 models.

To be fair all of these pre-built wooden planes cost much more than a Foamy. You have to put power, lights, landing gear, servos. etc.. All costing more money. I would say to make a Top Flight Corsair flight ready would be in the 2 - 3 K range minimum.

The Flightline Corsair is much less expensive to purchase than one of these.

So yes there are wooden planes available out there. I just bought a H-9 Hellcat last week. When I saw the $300 price tag, I couldn't pass it up. But this is the market that Flightline has chosen to storm into, "The Corsair Market".

Good luck
Woody

Just to set the record straight Woody the 2-3K range for a Top Flite balsa Corsair is the price for their giant scale plane (85" wingspan). The actual cost to build a comparable size (62" - 70") balsa ARF is under $1500. Unfortunately Phoenix is the only manufacture right now that makes a Corsair in this size ARF. The costs for that plane are: Airframe $400, engine $250 (gas or electric with ESC), servos $250, retracts $200-$300 (these are optional as Phoenix includes retracts in the model). You also have to keep in mind the servos and the retracts are much better compared with what is needed for a foamy. Still your point is true that $400 gets you a lot of plane compared to a balsa plane.

[e4dragongunner]

Dying for the ship notification......

[AkumaZeto]

I just had to cancel my order so there is one available if someone calls right away.

[Grover54]

RCAV8R, I use a stainless steel artist spatula (Right shape and very flexible) I bought at Hobby Lobby to slip between the canopy and the foam. It is longer at the tip and will give an edge to pull. There is only one way to do this and that is grit your teeth a bit and hope for the best. So far, the glue joint was hardest on the A-10, but the F-4 and Spitfire canopies came up with no real issues. I use a little of the "Foam FIller" after I remove the excess glue with my fingers, usually pulls up a little at a time. The A-10 required some surgery for the larger cockpit floor and sides. The F-4 and Spitfire are drop-in mods and I presume this will be as well. Best, LB

Elbee - I guess this answers my question about accessing the cockpit. I'm surprised it doesn't have release magnets of some kind to easily pop off if needed. BTW- just saw you're in the "Air Capital City". My old stomping ground....or close to it anyway. Grover