Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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This. It is what I do and works like a charm. Focuses the heat where it needs to be.Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.Comment
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I fail to see the problem. ;)I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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I just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.Comment
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Ok, haven't done any installing yet but when I had the main gear out for mods, I looked forward into the motor booms and there is plenty of room in there for the TT25 transducers. I'm waiting on Andrew from MRrcsound because he's doing an install now of the system in this P38. He says he's doing a video of the install. In the meantime, I think cutting on the panel lines in the bottom of the booms will be a good start to get the transducers in place and then glue the cutouts back in place. Stay tuned!Comment
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Well I went to fly her today and one of my T-connectors fried...As I was plugging it in the pin was slightly bent and suddenly I hear a ZAP! with a spark and smoke. It melted into the battery connector. Greeeeeeat.
So hopefully I didn't just short the whole system and only need to replace the connectors...Time will tell.
I am hating T-connectors these days for this very reason. Just give me easy peasy EC5's.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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I used to switch everything to EC3 or EC5 but heard that the T connectors were better. Maybe I should have stuck with my original routine....
AndyComment
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I was not happy with the increase in length of the NG. I was especially worried about the higher AoA.
So I dismantled the nose gear, removed the centre pin and drilled a new stop hole halfway down the shaft,(3/8-1/2") tapped it to 3mm, clipped the spring back by about 1/4 and re-assembled.
I think this is much better than what I had before5 PhotosComment
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See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Obviously, when downloading this video. I didn't get it done in 1080p. Sorry about the quality. But it was a great maiden. The pilot(me) flew the first few minutes with the flaps in the take off position...at least that was the worst thing that happened. I hadn't done any mix with the landing flap position...so had some ballooning effect. I've since got that mix pretty much dialed in. With the crosswind i missed our small runway, I was more concerned about all the other things, than touchdowning on the runway. She handles the rough grass very well. The stock retract system and wheels handled it very well, though after the 3rd flight while checking her out, i caught that the right strut was becoming loose. So a couple minutes spent tightening the grub screw on that one before the next flight. With the weather forecast for tomorrow, I will have her in the air again tomorrow morning.
Lon
EFlite F-16 80mm, EFite DRACO, EFlite Night Radian, E-Flite P51 1.5m
Freewing A-10 80mm, F-86 80mm, F-15 90mm, F-16 90mm. Avanti. FMS DHC-2 Beaver, Fliteline P-38L ,HSD HME-262, HSD F86.Comment
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Nice Lon, she handled that bumpy grass very well!I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973Comment
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Thanks as usual Aros!Comment
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[QUOTE=Dewey H Lee;n38681]Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.[/Q
Another method I've used is a pencil tip on my soldering iron right in the hex head hole for a few seconds. Worked great!Comment









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