Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
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Originally posted by Dewey H Lee View PostAnother method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
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Originally posted by Trobinson99 View PostI finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Congrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.
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Originally posted by Shirty View PostLet me know how you go boys. I'm keen to put a sound system in this one as well so interested to see what you come up with. Cheers. :)
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Well I went to fly her today and one of my T-connectors fried...As I was plugging it in the pin was slightly bent and suddenly I hear a ZAP! with a spark and smoke. It melted into the battery connector. Greeeeeeat.
So hopefully I didn't just short the whole system and only need to replace the connectors...Time will tell.
I am hating T-connectors these days for this very reason. Just give me easy peasy EC5's.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I was not happy with the increase in length of the NG. I was especially worried about the higher AoA.
So I dismantled the nose gear, removed the centre pin and drilled a new stop hole halfway down the shaft,(3/8-1/2") tapped it to 3mm, clipped the spring back by about 1/4 and re-assembled.
I think this is much better than what I had before5 Photos
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Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View PostHow do you upload pictures...........I want to show off my FW nosegear mod.
See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostCongrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!
Lon
EFlite F-16 80mm, EFite DRACO, EFlite Night Radian, E-Flite P51 1.5m
Freewing A-10 80mm, F-86 80mm, F-15 90mm, Avanti. FMS DHC-2 Beaver, Fliteline P-38L ,HSD HME-262, HSD F86.
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.
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[QUOTE=Dewey H Lee;n38681]Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.[/Q
Another method I've used is a pencil tip on my soldering iron right in the hex head hole for a few seconds. Worked great!
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Originally posted by Brandon Moon View PostModified to fit FMS P-40 Struts and FMS P-51 nose strut
Looks great!
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