Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

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  • Dewey H Lee
    WARBIRD JUNKIE

    • Apr 2015
    • 919
    • Fayetteville NC. US
    • Send PM

    #1601
    Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
    Dewey l

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    • Dewey H Lee
      WARBIRD JUNKIE

      • Apr 2015
      • 919
      • Fayetteville NC. US
      • Send PM

      #1602
      Dang spell check keeps changing my words. Sorry.
      Dewey l

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      • Arycon
        Hobby Squawk Intermediate Pilot

        • Mar 2016
        • 137
        • Melbourne, Florida
        • Send PM

        #1603
        Originally posted by Dewey H Lee
        Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
        This. It is what I do and works like a charm. Focuses the heat where it needs to be.

        Comment

        • Aros
          Lead Adminstrator / Warbirdaholic

          • May 2013
          • 8211
          • Astoria, OR
          • Send PM

          #1604
          Originally posted by Trobinson99
          I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.
          I fail to see the problem. ;)
          My YouTube RC videos:
          https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

          Comment

          • Aros
            Lead Adminstrator / Warbirdaholic

            • May 2013
            • 8211
            • Astoria, OR
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            #1605
            Congrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!
            My YouTube RC videos:
            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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            • PlaneCrazy
              Expert Novice

              • Jan 2016
              • 120
              • Bend, Oregon
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              #1606
              I just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.

              Comment

              • PlaneCrazy
                Expert Novice

                • Jan 2016
                • 120
                • Bend, Oregon
                • Send PM

                #1607
                Originally posted by Shirty
                Let me know how you go boys. I'm keen to put a sound system in this one as well so interested to see what you come up with. Cheers. :)
                Ok, haven't done any installing yet but when I had the main gear out for mods, I looked forward into the motor booms and there is plenty of room in there for the TT25 transducers. I'm waiting on Andrew from MRrcsound because he's doing an install now of the system in this P38. He says he's doing a video of the install. In the meantime, I think cutting on the panel lines in the bottom of the booms will be a good start to get the transducers in place and then glue the cutouts back in place. Stay tuned!

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                • Aros
                  Lead Adminstrator / Warbirdaholic

                  • May 2013
                  • 8211
                  • Astoria, OR
                  • Send PM

                  #1608
                  Well I went to fly her today and one of my T-connectors fried...As I was plugging it in the pin was slightly bent and suddenly I hear a ZAP! with a spark and smoke. It melted into the battery connector. Greeeeeeat.

                  So hopefully I didn't just short the whole system and only need to replace the connectors...Time will tell.

                  I am hating T-connectors these days for this very reason. Just give me easy peasy EC5's.
                  My YouTube RC videos:
                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                  • MikeT
                    Here......Hold my beer.

                    • Jan 2016
                    • 1060
                    • Send PM

                    #1609
                    First thing I did when mine arrived was swap them to EC5's, My heli experience with deans wasn't good.

                    Mike
                    \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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                    • PlaneCrazy
                      Expert Novice

                      • Jan 2016
                      • 120
                      • Bend, Oregon
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                      #1610
                      I used to switch everything to EC3 or EC5 but heard that the T connectors were better. Maybe I should have stuck with my original routine....
                      Andy

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                      • PlaneCrazy
                        Expert Novice

                        • Jan 2016
                        • 120
                        • Bend, Oregon
                        • Send PM

                        #1611
                        How do you upload pictures...........I want to show off my FW nosegear mod.

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                        • Trobinson99
                          Hobby Squawk Student Pilot

                          • Feb 2016
                          • 98
                          • Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
                          • Send PM

                          #1612
                          I was not happy with the increase in length of the NG. I was especially worried about the higher AoA.

                          So I dismantled the nose gear, removed the centre pin and drilled a new stop hole halfway down the shaft,(3/8-1/2") tapped it to 3mm, clipped the spring back by about 1/4 and re-assembled.

                          I think this is much better than what I had before

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                          • Aros
                            Lead Adminstrator / Warbirdaholic

                            • May 2013
                            • 8211
                            • Astoria, OR
                            • Send PM

                            #1613
                            Originally posted by PlaneCrazy
                            How do you upload pictures...........I want to show off my FW nosegear mod.

                            See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.

                            My YouTube RC videos:
                            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                            Comment

                            • Lon
                              HobbySquawk Accomplished Pilot

                              • Jul 2014
                              • 1201
                              • Miles, Iowa
                              • Send PM

                              #1614
                              Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC
                              Congrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!
                              Obviously, when downloading this video. I didn't get it done in 1080p. Sorry about the quality. But it was a great maiden. The pilot(me) flew the first few minutes with the flaps in the take off position...at least that was the worst thing that happened. I hadn't done any mix with the landing flap position...so had some ballooning effect. I've since got that mix pretty much dialed in. With the crosswind i missed our small runway, I was more concerned about all the other things, than touchdowning on the runway. She handles the rough grass very well. The stock retract system and wheels handled it very well, though after the 3rd flight while checking her out, i caught that the right strut was becoming loose. So a couple minutes spent tightening the grub screw on that one before the next flight. With the weather forecast for tomorrow, I will have her in the air again tomorrow morning.



                              Lon

                              EFlite F-16 80mm, EFite DRACO, EFlite Night Radian, E-Flite P51 1.5m
                              Freewing A-10 80mm, F-86 80mm, F-15 90mm, F-16 90mm. Avanti. FMS DHC-2 Beaver, Fliteline P-38L ,HSD HME-262, HSD F86.

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                              • FLTRI
                                That Guy from (Viva) Las Vegas...

                                • Jul 2013
                                • 214
                                • (Viva) Las Vegas, NV.
                                • Send PM

                                #1615
                                Nice Lon, she handled that bumpy grass very well!
                                I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.

                                -Officer John Wintergreen-
                                ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973

                                Comment

                                • PlaneCrazy
                                  Expert Novice

                                  • Jan 2016
                                  • 120
                                  • Bend, Oregon
                                  • Send PM

                                  #1616
                                  Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC


                                  See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.
                                  Thanks as usual Aros!

                                  Comment

                                  • Brandon Moon
                                    Fly, Enjoy, Have fun!!!!

                                    • Oct 2013
                                    • 335
                                    • Send PM

                                    #1617
                                    Modified to fit FMS P-40 Struts and FMS P-51 nose strut
                                    Brandon Moon

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                                    • Shirty
                                      Hobby Squawk Water Boy

                                      • Jan 2016
                                      • 1067
                                      • Perth, Australia
                                      • Send PM

                                      #1618
                                      Nice work Brandon. :)

                                      Big Grats on the maiden Lon n thanks for posting vid. :)

                                      Comment

                                      • boomer108
                                        Chief Boom

                                        • Apr 2014
                                        • 867
                                        • Chicago IL.
                                        • Send PM

                                        #1619
                                        [QUOTE=Dewey H Lee;n38681]Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.[/Q

                                        Another method I've used is a pencil tip on my soldering iron right in the hex head hole for a few seconds. Worked great!

                                        Comment

                                        • TiredIronGRB
                                          Post-Apocalyptic Tactical Consultant

                                          • Jan 2016
                                          • 3986
                                          • Church Hill, Tennessee
                                          • Send PM

                                          #1620
                                          Originally posted by Brandon Moon
                                          Modified to fit FMS P-40 Struts and FMS P-51 nose strut

                                          Looks great!
                                          TiredIron Aviation
                                          Tired Iron Military Vehicles

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