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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

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  • Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
    Dewey l

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    • Dang spell check keeps changing my words. Sorry.
      Dewey l

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      • Originally posted by Dewey H Lee View Post
        Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.
        This. It is what I do and works like a charm. Focuses the heat where it needs to be.

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        • Originally posted by Trobinson99 View Post
          I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.
          I fail to see the problem. ;)
          My YouTube RC videos:
          https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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          • Congrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!
            My YouTube RC videos:
            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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            • I just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.

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              • Originally posted by Shirty View Post
                Let me know how you go boys. I'm keen to put a sound system in this one as well so interested to see what you come up with. Cheers. :)
                Ok, haven't done any installing yet but when I had the main gear out for mods, I looked forward into the motor booms and there is plenty of room in there for the TT25 transducers. I'm waiting on Andrew from MRrcsound because he's doing an install now of the system in this P38. He says he's doing a video of the install. In the meantime, I think cutting on the panel lines in the bottom of the booms will be a good start to get the transducers in place and then glue the cutouts back in place. Stay tuned!

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                • Well I went to fly her today and one of my T-connectors fried...As I was plugging it in the pin was slightly bent and suddenly I hear a ZAP! with a spark and smoke. It melted into the battery connector. Greeeeeeat.

                  So hopefully I didn't just short the whole system and only need to replace the connectors...Time will tell.

                  I am hating T-connectors these days for this very reason. Just give me easy peasy EC5's.
                  My YouTube RC videos:
                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                  • First thing I did when mine arrived was swap them to EC5's, My heli experience with deans wasn't good.

                    Mike
                    \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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                    • I used to switch everything to EC3 or EC5 but heard that the T connectors were better. Maybe I should have stuck with my original routine....
                      Andy

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                      • How do you upload pictures...........I want to show off my FW nosegear mod.

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                        • I was not happy with the increase in length of the NG. I was especially worried about the higher AoA.

                          So I dismantled the nose gear, removed the centre pin and drilled a new stop hole halfway down the shaft,(3/8-1/2") tapped it to 3mm, clipped the spring back by about 1/4 and re-assembled.

                          I think this is much better than what I had before

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                          • Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View Post
                            How do you upload pictures...........I want to show off my FW nosegear mod.

                            See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.

                            My YouTube RC videos:
                            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                            • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
                              Congrats Lon! Looking forward to the video!
                              Obviously, when downloading this video. I didn't get it done in 1080p. Sorry about the quality. But it was a great maiden. The pilot(me) flew the first few minutes with the flaps in the take off position...at least that was the worst thing that happened. I hadn't done any mix with the landing flap position...so had some ballooning effect. I've since got that mix pretty much dialed in. With the crosswind i missed our small runway, I was more concerned about all the other things, than touchdowning on the runway. She handles the rough grass very well. The stock retract system and wheels handled it very well, though after the 3rd flight while checking her out, i caught that the right strut was becoming loose. So a couple minutes spent tightening the grub screw on that one before the next flight. With the weather forecast for tomorrow, I will have her in the air again tomorrow morning.



                              Lon

                              EFlite F-16 80mm, EFite DRACO, EFlite Night Radian, E-Flite P51 1.5m
                              Freewing A-10 80mm, F-86 80mm, F-15 90mm, Avanti. FMS DHC-2 Beaver, Fliteline P-38L ,HSD HME-262, HSD F86.

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                              • Nice Lon, she handled that bumpy grass very well!
                                I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.

                                -Officer John Wintergreen-
                                ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973

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                                • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post


                                  See the camera icon when you go to make a post on the top left? Click on that. It will allow two buttons to pop up below the post "Upload" or "Select from Photo Album". Click the "Upload" button and you can then browse your computer and attach the photos.
                                  Thanks as usual Aros!

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                                  • Modified to fit FMS P-40 Struts and FMS P-51 nose strut
                                    Brandon Moon

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                                    • Nice work Brandon. :)

                                      Big Grats on the maiden Lon n thanks for posting vid. :)

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                                      • [QUOTE=Dewey H Lee;n38681]Another method for freeing up the loctited is to get a sacrificial Allen wrench and heat it red hot and stick it in the screw for a few seconds to heat the screw and break down the loctited. Remove and immediately use a good Allen wrench to take out the screw. I have used this method many times when I didn't want the heat anywhere but on the screw. I have had an extremely high success rate with this method. The only time it hasn't worked for me is when the screw was cross threaded and not the loctited keeping it from coming out. I hope this helps.[/Q

                                        Another method I've used is a pencil tip on my soldering iron right in the hex head hole for a few seconds. Worked great!

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by Brandon Moon View Post
                                          Modified to fit FMS P-40 Struts and FMS P-51 nose strut

                                          Looks great!
                                          TiredIron Aviation
                                          Tired Iron Military Vehicles

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