I have no idea why it would show Ohio. I had a problem with my HS account a while back and had Motion reset my account that might be why it shows Ohio.:Confused:
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Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread
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this is my Bearcat great flyer check out sound system at https://youtu.be/gckmuwIbPm4 sounds great1 Photo
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Hey guys.....Love flying my Bearcat, but with well under an hour on her I am experiencing retract failures. Had to bring her in on one leg once as one gear failed to extend, after many re-tries. A couple more short sessions and that same retract just stopped working, fortunately this time in the down position. Ordered two new retracts. put in a new one and find it doesn't even have enough torque to push the inner door closed! It will extend, but can't push the door closed, hanging up about 30 degrees short of closing all the way. Lots of fussing and adjusting produced the same result. Much to my horror, even as I was fussing with the the new retract the other one started acting up...operating intermittently! This is really disappointing, considering I operate from a rather cushy AstroTurf soccer field. I recently gave up flying my 1400mm FMS T-28 because the gear just wouldn't hold up. Now I'm wondering if this great flying plane is going to end up the same way. (and yes, my landings skills are very good) How are you guys faring with durability of these retracts?
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I did not use the junction box. Ran everything straight into my Rx. Wiring has been checked several times. Three different wye's have been tried. Two different power sources have been used for testing - a servo tester powered by a 4.8V NICAD pack, and the normal 4-cell LIPOS. Both sources have worked about the same. Activation failures are intermittent, which would seem to implicate actuator contacts. I did gain some ground with the leg that would not fully retract. I ended up bending the door actuator wire downwards at an angle that exceeds that of the one on the other leg's door. Seems that by making the gear leg contact the wire earlier in the closing cycle it gives the leg more time to force the door over-center and snap closed. If the leg has folded too close to the retracted position before it has pushed the door over-center, it doesn't have enough force to overcome the magnet's resistance.1 Photo
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Also, check the anchor screws. Sometimes they have to be backed off a little. I'm vague on the reason, but had the same thing with the Spitty. Found the sweet spot and been fine ever since. CB, can give you a better explanation of why this happens. I just know it does and that's how to fix it.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Blindflyer View PostHey guys.....Love flying my Bearcat, but with well under an hour on her I am experiencing retract failures. Had to bring her in on one leg once as one gear failed to extend, after many re-tries. A couple more short sessions and that same retract just stopped working, fortunately this time in the down position. Ordered two new retracts. put in a new one and find it doesn't even have enough torque to push the inner door closed! It will extend, but can't push the door closed, hanging up about 30 degrees short of closing all the way. Lots of fussing and adjusting produced the same result. Much to my horror, even as I was fussing with the the new retract the other one started acting up...operating intermittently! This is really disappointing, considering I operate from a rather cushy AstroTurf soccer field. I recent ily gave up flying my 1400mm FMS T-28 because the gear just wouldn't hold up. Now I'm wondering if this great flying plane is going to end up the same way. (and yes, my landings skills are very good) How are you guys faring with durability of these retracts?
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Originally posted by Blindflyer View PostI did not use the junction box. Ran everything straight into my Rx. Wiring has been checked several times. Three different wye's have been tried. Two different power sources have been used for testing - a servo tester powered by a 4.8V NICAD pack, and the normal 4-cell LIPOS. Both sources have worked about the same. Activation failures are intermittent, which would seem to implicate actuator contacts. I did gain some ground with the leg that would not fully retract. I ended up bending the door actuator wire downwards at an angle that exceeds that of the one on the other leg's door. Seems that by making the gear leg contact the wire earlier in the closing cycle it gives the leg more time to force the door over-center and snap closed. If the leg has folded too close to the retracted position before it has pushed the door over-center, it doesn't have enough force to overcome the magnet's resistance.
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Originally posted by flyingiceberg View PostAnyone else notice that their aileron hinges are splitting?3 Photos
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had a hard landing today and the darn left gear breaks out the leading edge of the wing....well about a year ago I did the same thing and ordered wings ... which I still had one side....no way same wing I broke last year lol gorilla glue to the rescue but don't think its going to work all that well....probably order parts again!!!!!
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Originally posted by Ron1950 View Posthad a hard landing today and the darn left gear breaks out the leading edge of the wing....well about a year ago I did the same thing and ordered wings ... which I still had one side....no way same wing I broke last year lol gorilla glue to the rescue but don't think its going to work all that well....probably order parts again!!!!!
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Broke a wing on my little Corsair 3 times and all three times i injected water and them gorilla glue in it. Each time the wing has been broken the gorilla glued areas held tight and the breaks were in the foam close by. Also useing the gorilla glue it foamed into cracks i could have never gotten any other glue.Dewey l
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Originally posted by Beeg View PostAlright, here's my Bearcat build number 2. "Converting" it into a G-58A, Al Williams "Gulfhawk4" scheme. Still a ways to go but I've got the base colors down on wings. Just need some dark blue trim on wings and fuselage and a few decals. I put the entire FMS 1400mm Corsair power system in my first Bearcat but on this one I think I'll upgrade the motor like BornToLate did and see if it make much of a difference. Not that the extra power is needed..
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Am I just unlucky with my FLRC Bearcat or are other people out there having retract issues? So far I’ve put 2 new sets of retracts in my one as they intermittently work -or one works and one doesn’t. Kinda getting to my wits end with this bird, I’ve bench tested retracts off my servo tester and they work fine. Soon as I run them off an Rx I start getting issues. Have tried 2 differrent Rx’s and 3 differrent BEC’s and I’m on the 3rd pair of retracts for it and it still is misbehaving. If I can’t sort it soon I will make it a belly flopper with the hi speed upgrade in as that runs a 2 blade prop.
im not using the included control box and never have in this plane, and I’m at my wits end with it now-I get the retracts to work fine till I connect them to an RX!
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Originally posted by Builda View PostAm I just unlucky with my FLRC Bearcat or are other people out there having retract issues? So far I’ve put 2 new sets of retracts in my one as they intermittently work -or one works and one doesn’t. Kinda getting to my wits end with this bird, I’ve bench tested retracts off my servo tester and they work fine. Soon as I run them off an Rx I start getting issues. Have tried 2 differrent Rx’s and 3 differrent BEC’s and I’m on the 3rd pair of retracts for it and it still is misbehaving. If I can’t sort it soon I will make it a belly flopper with the hi speed upgrade in as that runs a 2 blade prop.
im not using the included control box and never have in this plane, and I’m at my wits end with it now-I get the retracts to work fine till I connect them to an RX!
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