Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[Builda]

Have FINALLY found the problem.....Was the BEC all along......it wasn’t big enough! I guess we all have blonde moments, that was mine lol. I found it when I hooked up my 2 brand new (just arrived today) retracts and they only went in one direction as usual, yet with just one connected it worked fine-so I tried a 5a BEC instead and that fixed it. I’m tempted now to get a 10a one for that plane, although in theory I suppose it shouldn’t need it. At least I solved it. As for all the retracts here with broken microswitches, I’m gonna re wire them to be used with that seperate controller I have. Thanks to everyone who contributed 10c toward me solving this issue-and if you ever need to buy just the retract unit on its own (without the landing leg) I got them dirt cheap from Hobby-paradise.com. Part number E814. Everywhere else only sold them as a complete unit (complete with legs). Guess I have a few spares now lol.

[Mad Baron]

Had a bit of bad luck today. My Bearcat is no more it got too far from me and couldn't tell exactly which way it was going and it fell out the sky. When I made my way to the wreckage one aileron was separated from the wing and I don't know if it came loose in flight or the impact crash. :(

[rifleman_btx]

Awe man that suck, sorry man :(

[Mad Baron]

I'm upset that it crashed but that's the way it goes. These planes are on borrowed time as soon as the box is opened. I do have another Bearcat kit to put together I bought about a year ago so I will have another cat to fly again.

[rifleman_btx]

Indeed, and good deal

[Grossman56]

Hey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.

Grossman56

[OV10]

I want an FL 1600 Bearcat :Cool: after the 1700 Drooling:

[Beeg]

LOL! Don't we all! With scale landing gear! :Cool:

[rifleman_btx]

I would be happy with a 1600mm F6F hellcat.

[Grossman56]

Okay, so it's agreed, first the:arrow: OV-10:Cool:, then the :arrow:1600 mm Bearcat:P, then a:arrow: 1600 Hellcat;)................

PAGING ALPHA !!!!!LOL:Gift::Gift::bluelove

Grossman56:Kiss:

[Mad Baron]

Hey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.

Grossman56

I am going to be sure the hinge points have a good coating of foam tac as I don't want to replay the incident again, walking thru tall grass and jumping ditches to get to the plane is no fun at all! I plan to pull all the electronics for spares. I would keep the airframe but its too messed up to use any parts.

[rifleman_btx]

Okay, so it's agreed, first the:arrow: OV-10:Cool:, then the :arrow:1600 mm Bearcat:P, then a:arrow: 1600 Hellcat;)................

PAGING ALPHA !!!!!LOL:Gift::Gift::bluelove

Grossman56:Kiss:

Yes, within the next 12 months. If they got the Yorktown fully operational in 3 days, you can do this.

[Bob Symes]

Hey Boomer, that stuff is amazing, the surface feels stronger, and a UV protectant. Three coats with a 1" foam brush, and she glows.
You can see how, what the word, unimpressive(?) the surface looks in dull blue, but put a coat of Spar Varathane on and WOW! It's like polishing an old dull car back to new again. Just look at the before and after shots.

Grossman56

Hi Grossman56,
is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
thanks
Bob

[Grossman56]

Yes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.

Grossman56

[Mad Baron]

Has anyone used the plastic hinges that comes with the Bearcat?

[Grossman56]

I haven't yet, but they're right where I can find them...
I just hate to cut into something that is working, once I see the controls are starting to back off, I may, but the Foam-Tac does such an amazing job..............

Grossman56

[Bob Symes]

Yes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.

Grossman56

Thanks Grossman56
Cheers
Bob

[Builda]

Hi Grossman56,
is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
thanks
Bob

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

[Bob Symes]

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

Thanks Builda, we have Cabot’s available at Bunnings. I will check it out
Regards
Bob

[Bob Symes]

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

Ho Builda,
my local Bunnings has Cabot’s Benchtop Clear and Cabothane clear in Satin, was either of these the product you used? The benchtop is heat resistant.
thanks
Bob