Well I pulled her out of the box and sorted through that rats nest of wiring. The initial checks show all the electronics operational - everything moved, motors calibrated and spun up, the lights lit and the gear cycled many times. Hopefully it stays that way!
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Originally posted by NoDirt! View PostWell I pulled her out of the box and sorted through that rats nest of wiring. The initial checks show all the electronics operational - everything moved, motors calibrated and spun up, the lights lit and the gear cycled many times. Hopefully it stays that way!
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Originally posted by xviper View PostWhere do you live? If it's cold out when you fly, the retracts may not deploy when it's time to land. Some say below 60F and the Dynam retracts stop working. Mine stopped working when near freezing. When flying around, it got even colder. Gear would not come down. I ended up changing all retracts to a different brand.
I'm in Maryland and usually fly something all winter...1 Photo
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Originally posted by xviper View PostWhere do you live? If it's cold out when you fly, the retracts may not deploy when it's time to land. Some say below 60F and the Dynam retracts stop working. Mine stopped working when near freezing. When flying around, it got even colder. Gear would not come down. I ended up changing all retracts to a different brand.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostWhere do you live? If it's cold out when you fly, the retracts may not deploy when it's time to land. Some say below 60F and the Dynam retracts stop working. Mine stopped working when near freezing. When flying around, it got even colder. Gear would not come down. I ended up changing all retracts to a different brand.
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Looking good, Kloverzero. One tip: be careful with the black painted clear parts. They'll be more prone to warping under high heat, which of course will accumulate faster under the blacked out pieces. Dynam's PE is thin.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Super-nice looking airplane. The green chromate, the white prop tips, and the painted lines on the nose cone are really nice touches. Don't forget to paint the cylinder heads! ;)Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by themudduck View PostSuper-nice looking airplane. The green chromate, the white prop tips, and the painted lines on the nose cone are really nice touches. Don't forget to paint the cylinder heads! ;)
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Okay, so I got the door servos in, the control horns, and the bay doors. Started playing with the linkages, but the glue (Foam Tac) needed to dry on the horns. I also got the new servo tray made for the tail servos, and the servos installed. I am splitting the elevators to two separate servos for more positive authority. All of the tail servos are FMS 17G DMG from my ill fated 1500mm P-47. I also got the retracts re-installed, with the new non-steamroller tires on them. The mains are Dave Brown, and no clue what the nose wheel came off of, but it looks a lot better!!!!
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Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostHmm wonder if you can use a sequencer for gears to delay bomb dropping for effect
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True. Was just thinking for other who may not want the bombs to drop immediately on open. I've wanted to do everything on a single switch when I design my bomb dropping system. So flip to the center position doors open next position drops them. I'm hoping to have the same idea as you, and i hope I can do it all off a single 3 pos switch
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Here is my 2 cents. I have been dropping bombs from RC planes for years and I can honestly tell you that you guys are over complicating it with the bombs on a separate release mechanism or magnets if the plane has bomb bay doors. First, the bomb doors will not be that visible while flying. In fact, you will barely notice yourself. Two, with bombs coming out on just opening the doors you can be very accurate. A small slow down of door opening will make the bombs come out like a string. Which makes the doors more versatile Fast and they will group. Bob did a similar set up trying to make the doors open first and then releasing the bombs with a rubberband, and his was very unreliable, so he is going to abandon that set up.4 PhotosDon't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Very interesting. I already have the magnet OTW, and have it pretty much ready to go now, so I am going to give it a whirl and see what happens. At the very least, it is a test bed for future projects. I am going to be scratch building an A-37 Dragonfly soon, and wanted to do dropable napalm canisters without the need for a physical release mechanism on the wing.
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Mechanisms aren't that big of a pain. There are many ways to make them deploy. They are secure even at High Speed/G. Mine give you the capability to drop whatever you want. I have mounted as many as three bombs on three separate pylons on a 1100mm Skyraider. It handles it without problems dependably and are easy to load. I usually hold the plane upside down and balance the bombs over the mechanism and then hit the switch to load. I did modify my transmitter to a push button switch to handle the drops, and you don't need powerful servos. 2.2gram will work. Lots of videos at youtube Dropadambomb@gmail.com2 PhotosDon't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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