I am trying to figure out getting the landing light to activate with the gear operation. I have tried a reversing circuit as suggested by OV10 but it wouldn't work anyone have any ideas on what I am doing wrong?
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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread
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Have you tried one of these wired with a y connector one going to retracts one going to this, and from this to the led controller? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dr-mad-t...ff-switch.html
Worth a shot I figure.1 Photo
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Originally posted by Mad Baron View PostI am trying to figure out getting the landing light to activate with the gear operation. I have tried a reversing circuit as suggested by OV10 but it wouldn't work anyone have any ideas on what I am doing wrong?
I suspect you don't have it done correctly but without details it would be like shooting at bats in the dark. LOL
PM me so we don't tie up this thread.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Thanks Mark. Since the pictures were taken I have painted the u/cart legs RAF internal grey-green, with shiney metal for the telescopic bits, and dirty aluminium for the wheel hubs.
Win top roundels are still to be added. Right or wrong, the invasion stripes are staying, for better visibility. Like Scamps scheme, they are our models, we like 'em.
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Hi UK ARTHUR, welcome to the Squawk!!
I agree, sometimes, it's cool to reproduce a paint scheme exactly, while other times, it's all about what you want. I did the same on Old Crow, even though Bud was flying a B model during D Day, I applied invasion stripes just 'cause....Made her easier to spot in the air as well!!
The new FlightLine 1600 mm Spitfire is done up as AI-A, Skipper's (Robert Shaw's) from the movie, The Battle of Britain.
Now I just have to figure out how to get a red headed pilot with a white roll neck sweater!
Grossman56
Team Gross!
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Thanks for the welcome Grossman.
Could you try faking the sweater using thin material, dyed if necessary. Maybe fingers from an old glove could be used, a short section for the neck, and two or more sections side by side for the body? Or were you joking? Lol.
The two supplied pilots are twice the scale size, and look to me like a pair of lady scooter riders!
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They are for the props. They go on each side of the prop before assembly to the prop shaft. Four spares come with it for the spare props. They are shown in the motion build video. Be carefull with flying it in cold weather(below 50f ), the retracts will fail. If you havent, go through this thread for possible trouble spots before flight. I love mine, it a great flyer and looks really cool on a show pass.Still flying P.15, avanti(#2), mig 21, yak 130 70mm(#2), f35, f9f panther, a10 64mm, F8 crusader/ PA ultimate amr /HK skipper, durafly dh vampire, p 51,spit mk24, corsair, flybeam/ BH f86 50mm, deltawing 50mm/ HH su 26 mm,umx pitts,umx sbach, blade nano cp s,blade 450x, inductrix 200, inductrix pro, umx yak 54,umx f27 fpv/ electrifly 4s L39/ flyzone beaver/ volantix asw 28, /dynam B26
RIP.. roc hobby waco,strega #2(you will be missed), Fw 90mm eurofighter.
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Originally posted by CFIT rob View PostThey are for the props. They go on each side of the prop before assembly to the prop shaft. Four spares come with it for the spare props. They are shown in the motion build video. Be carefull with flying it in cold weather(below 50f ), the retracts will fail. If you havent, go through this thread for possible trouble spots before flight. I love mine, it a great flyer and looks really cool on a show pass.
I flew mine again yesterday. It was several degrees below freezing and my replacement retracts worked flawlessly. Until Dynam gets better retracts (ones that don't quit when it gets too cool outside), I'll only buy their planes with the express knowledge that the retracts WILL be replaced.
Now that I've figured out how to fly this thing, it's a joy to fly. Lands beautifully. By "figured out", I primarily mean knowing where to keep the throttle during the flight. Near full throttle is needed when doing any kind of banking turn. Same goes for when trying to climb aggressively. Loops must be planned with full throttle going into a shallow dive and maintaining a nice, smooth, not too tight, circle. Don't yank on the ELE too suddenly or too aggressively or it will do this funny roll near the top (it stalls easily). However, if you fly it "scale", like you would the real thing, none of this matters. Shallow banks in large turns can be done at lower throttle without a problem. Have lots of altitude in the beginning when experimenting with this plane.
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Originally posted by capecoral View PostWOW thanks for the great help and advise. looked like they would sit inside the props but great help
No seriously, there are a couple of issues with this plane that need to be addressed. Once those are taken care of, this model flies very nicely.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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