Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[Hardway]

Your prop hubs are not factory issued... If they are, then mine are sure different!

[TiredIronGRB]

Your prop hubs are not factory issued... If they are, then mine are sure different!

Bingo! those come with the LX B-25 but aren't used so I dremeled them out so they would fit over the hubnut.

[rifleman_btx]

Nicely done

[Bigrc2]

I know that some of you guys if not all have been doing all kind of fixes trying to get the hatch on top of the wing to fully close. I came up with a solution. I added two magnets, one to the hatch and another to the wing. With just a gentle push, the magnet make contact and the hatch closes fully. Am posting pics. Also am attaching a pic of the wiring setup I did. Since I use a separate 10amp BEC with battery to power the receive, I didn't have enough room without crowding so I probably mount that battery on the underside of the canopy.

[borntoolate]

Hey Bob, Got mine on Sat. last week and even though I'm trying to get my Bearcat ready for its maiden, I had to dig in. Started out trying to screw the hor. and vert. fins in from the top, but thanks to Ryan's build vid saw the holes on the bottom of the fuse. From there on all went well. I had her together in a matter of hours. Now on to the electrons. First had to I.D. the servos ala a tester. The numbers on the leads are different than the norm. I decided to not resolder deans plugs on the motor leads and bought a XT60 connector (it'll be the only plane I've done that on.As one of the guys in the thread, not sure if I'm going to use a 3600 or a 4000 for the maiden. Also, going to sub Robart cross threaded tires for those balloons! And weathering! Going to try the water and salt techique but will try it out first on a scrap piece of already painted foam. Paint scheme...going for Flak Bait. Already got my decals from Callie. Haven't looked at the top hatch on the wing to see if it has the same problem that some of the guys have found. Looks like an easy fix.I'm going to wait to maiden her until the repaint. Let me know how yours is coming along. As for bomb bay doors, which I know you love, I'm sure you won't try to do bi-fold doors. Big problem and as you say, who can tell once the plane is in the air. Miss you and Tsukai. See what you've been happening with you guys on the net. Happy landings,

Brent

Hi Brent! Good to see you are also working on yours. I had to remove the middle magnets on the top cover and add rare earth magnets on the front edge. It fits well now. I did have a bad elevator servo so I changed that out. Currently I have 1400mm FMS P-51 wheels for the mains and a 980mm P-40 wheel for the nose. I do have Robarts on order though. I just want to get this first one flying with a few mods and paint. The second one will be in a green over grey scheme. I ran out of time today before I could hinge the bomb bay.

The electronics were not too hard to decipher. A simple process of elimination. It only took a few minutes. Tomorrow I will cover the invasion stripes with a primer of grey, then add the silver over that. My version was from 1941-1942 - no invasion stripes then.

We have been trying to keep busy. We are off to a "Warbirds over Livermore" this Saturday. We really need to get down to Apollo soon! We rather enjoy the group and the field there.

Bob

[rifleman_btx]

Just get you a Dr mad thrust power switch and y the switch with your gears then put the led controller on the switch https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dr-mad-t...ff-switch.html

[ryramZ]

Has anyone changed out the red and green LED in the wing? I would like to install white LEDs for landing lights I am going to figure out a way to have them come on when the gear is lowered.

I did.
I used the FMS Skytrainer 182 lights, two sets.
Freewing Old Crow sequencer boxes.

here's the deal it takes two channels. I'll set the stage. Freewing retracts work opposite FMS. For example one time I replaced a FMS nose retract with a Freewing. They work opposite until you split them up.

I put my lights/ sequencer on channel 5 and my gear on channel 7 and reversed it and assigned them to the same switch.

If if you don't care if the landing lights are on all the time the FMS lights do not need a driver and can y into any channel.

[rifleman_btx]

Could also use a unused channel with the switch and mix it. Thats also an option

[Bigrc2]

I had the same problem with the hatch. I took the magnet out of the hatch and moved toward the top on the hatch and it closes up fully now.

More than one way to skin a cat!

[terrygrau]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.
Should have sensed something wrong but was pushing to fly in event this weekend. Result tip stall, crash and new fuselage required.

Somebody needs to figure out these 2 large tail weights and why they are there.
I could not find them during assembly so had to add about the same amount to the nose to balance. Now I have a high wing loading and a high polar moment of inertia and she turned into the original "baltimore *****". Basiclly unflyable even with a gyro.

Next flight will be without any weights and a smaller battery and possibly some up trim.

I am beginning to think this is a good looking twin "without any visable means of support"

[xviper]

I had the same problem with the hatch. I took the magnet out of the hatch and moved toward the top on the hatch and it closes up fully now.

The front lip can be flattened out by just pushing on it, so new placement of the magnet will fix it but ........................... What about at the rear? It's a different can of worms. There's actually some obstruction there and just pushing on it won't close the gap. Either the wing is too thick there or the wing cap is too thick there or the middle magnets are not buried deep enough.

[TiredIronGRB]

Loosen the wing and make sure it's all the way forward and seated to the fuse...most of the alignment issues are from the wing not being seated properly.

[xviper]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.

That's odd. I'm using the mid-way point (70-75mm) and 4000mah, 4s battery - it's still nose heavy. I'm guessing mine actually balanced at around 65mm, so I put back that one weight I took out that was loose. For you to use an even bigger battery and still need more weight up front is weird.
I'm about to maiden mine in an hour or so. Will report back later today, maybe with video.

[TiredIronGRB]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.
Should have sensed something wrong but was pushing to fly in event this weekend. Result tip stall, crash and new fuselage required.

Somebody needs to figure out these 2 large tail weights and why they are there.
I could not find them during assembly so had to add about the same amount to the nose to balance. Now I have a high wing loading and a high polar moment of inertia and she turned into the original "baltimore *****". Basiclly unflyable even with a gyro.

Next flight will be without any weights and a smaller battery and possibly some up trim.

I am beginning to think this is a good looking twin "without any visable means of support"

Welcome to Hobby Squawk Terry!

Mine didn't have any weights in it and my CG is at 65mm with an Admiral 4S 4000mAh at the very front edge of where the battery "ramp" is.

[rifleman_btx]

My new parts should be in today. I'm going to build this one very methodically, since I bought all the spare wing parts, cowls, necells, and fuselage. I really want to make sure it's perfect ground up. Here's to success on v2.0

[OV10]

Has anyone changed out the red and green LED in the wing? I would like to install white LEDs for landing lights I am going to figure out a way to have them come on when the gear is lowered.

The constant "on" of the landing lights I have remedied very easily and inexpensively(less than $5) on other birds like the FMS 1400 Corsair and T-28.
To get the lights to being on when gear is down and off when gear is up is done with one reversing circuit and one Y cable.
The reversing circuit ........... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...rser-long.html

Plug the Y lead male end in the gear channel of the receiver.
Plug the lead of the retracts into one of the female connectors of the Y lead.
Plug the reverser(input) into the other female connector of the Y lead.
Plug the gear lights into the reverser female(output) connector. [ ensure polarity is correct ie , red + positive and black/brown - negative.................the signal white/yellow wire on reverser is of no consequence ;)]

[ryramZ]

That's odd. I'm using the mid-way point (70-75mm) and 4000mah, 4s battery - it's still nose heavy. I'm guessing mine actually balanced at around 65mm, so I put back that one weight I took out that was loose. For you to use an even bigger battery and still need more weight up front is weird.
I'm about to maiden mine in an hour or so. Will report back later today, maybe with video.

My intro shows where I cg for maiden. Also lower the throw on elevator and make sure the deflection is even. I think low throw on elevator helps keep a friendly aoa thus making a gentler handler and more of a Baltimore respectable lady rather than the other.

[rifleman_btx]

What do y'all think of the viability of a vector unit installation?

[rifleman_btx]

CG'ed and maidened yesterday at 70mm. It reguired significant weight in nose to balance with a large 4500 mah 4s.
Should have sensed something wrong but was pushing to fly in event this weekend. Result tip stall, crash and new fuselage required.

Somebody needs to figure out these 2 large tail weights and why they are there.
I could not find them during assembly so had to add about the same amount to the nose to balance. Now I have a high wing loading and a high polar moment of inertia and she turned into the original "baltimore *****". Basiclly unflyable even with a gyro.

Next flight will be without any weights and a smaller battery and possibly some up trim.

I am beginning to think this is a good looking twin "without any visable means of support"

Did it look like this?

[themudduck]

My intro shows where I cg for maiden. Also lower the throw on elevator and make sure the deflection is even. I think low throw on elevator helps keep a friendly aoa thus making a gentler handler and more of a Baltimore respectable lady rather than the other.

Exactly - this backs up what I suggested earlier in the thread - keep the elevator throw to a minimum. Too much elevator - and "bam" instant aerobatics. So... agreed!
I like the way mine flies, it does very well as long as you don't pull back too much on the stick. When it slows down, I use the flaps and tip stalling is not an issue. At least, it hasn't been an issue yet. Four nice takeoffs (with flaps partially down) and four nice landings (with full flaps) so far.

Terrygrau - I'm very sorry to hear that your plane went in.

I'm looking forward to Xviper's flight report...!