Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread
Collapse
X
-
I tookoff and made a right turn to the downwind led. Abeam of the takeoff point it started a roll to the left, I applied right ailerons to correct with no response from the ailerons. Telemetry showed no loss of signal and no holds. It went in at full power in a nose down attitude. Power was killed just prior to impact with the throttle cut.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jpmcdo View PostI just purchased a Fliteline OV10a bronco. I attached one motor and ESC to my receiver along with the BEC. One motor runs. However, the other motor will not run. I have the throttle in the correct position on both an AR610 receiver and a AR637T receiver. For testing I plugged the BEC into Aux1 as well as the bind plug socket. I've tested with both an Ix12 and a DX9. Both are bound. It was an effort to get the bind to start.
Does anyone have any ideas? Sounds like the ESC is bad. When connected to the receiver, the receiver bound light is not on and there are no beeps counting the cells in the battery. IT's just dead. I also noticed the motors will not turn easily unless they are connected to the battery. Once connected they spin easily by hand. Which is confusing for me since I could see the one that works needing a signal from the ESC so I assume something is getting through the suspected bad ESC. Any ideas?
Comment
-
And it passed a range check? I assume you had the control surfaces all going through the BB? I don’t think that would cause loss of all control and then having it back post crash but it could...
Originally posted by KC8REH View PostPost crash control check did not have any problems with the primary surfaces. Other than the ailerons and rudders were distroyed
Comment
-
Plus one on the canopy hatch latch being totally inadequate, even with the halfway-point magnets. The pin is far too short and the gap changes as the hatch is shifted fore/aft, or the fuselage flexes. My father made the first two flights "stock", making especially sure the pin was engaged, but I pretty much insisted he add magnets at the rear of the hatch before he flew again the next day. I'm sure most of us have had at least one canopy/hatch come off in flight -- some planes hardly notice, while others become almost unflyable, like when the canopy flew off of my FMS 1500mm A-10. That was a wild ride.
Comment
-
Yes there is a 2-3mm gap and the pin on the latch is about the same so any bump and it comes unlatched.
I put a 1/16" piece of balsa behind the striker plate and a small piece of one sided foam tape at the front (this made the gap the same front and back. Then I pulled the latch out of the wing, disassembled it and made the pin in the latch 2mm longer and dremeled the inside so the "T" could slide an extra mm forward. Won't come out next time! My canopy is a little heavier and valuable with the FPV rig but that is offset by the removal of the front pilot figure.
Comment
-
Originally posted by flgboy View Post
Try tweaking the end point on the throttle channel. Had the same issue and tweaked lower lower limits to like -102 and both initialized. I pulled it all apart troubleshooting before I figured that one out.
Comment
-
Originally posted by KC8REH View PostI tookoff and made a right turn to the downwind led. Abeam of the takeoff point it started a roll to the left, I applied right ailerons to correct with no response from the ailerons. Telemetry showed no loss of signal and no holds. It went in at full power in a nose down attitude. Power was killed just prior to impact with the throttle cut.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jpmcdo View Post
Thanks for replying, I figured it out. I had to trim the throttle down and everything started to work fine.
Comment
-
It's hot, so I'm gonna mess with the cockpit for a while.
Observer is all printed, I'll attach the arms after I smooth him out some.
It took some fiddling to get him right. While the plane is listed at 1:8.5, the seat is closer to 1:11.
He started out as a 1:6 figure I got off Thingiverse, scaled down by 55%. His head comes from other work by the same designer. He'll get a mic and some other details before he takes his seat full time.
I've been avoiding the instrument panel, hoping someone better than I can take on that task.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jpmcdo View Post
I’m really sorry that happened to you and now I’m nervous. I have a Spektrum Ix12 transmitter and just bought a AR637T for my receiver and they are not cheap.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Gilatrout View Post
I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Gilatrout View Post
I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jpmcdo View Post
Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.
I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.
The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.
I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.
you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..
The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.
1 Photo
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jpmcdo View Post
Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Gilatrout View Post
I did the utility hatch mod. The back half of the fuselage has tons of room to get receiver out of the way. The remote will be installed forward in the main battery bay.
I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.
The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.
I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.
you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..
The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Evan D View PostThe ESC is the same as the B-24. Go to Motion and look under the B-24 and you’ll find the ESC manual.
I was looking to see if I could try a different timing setting. But, which setting is for the motor timing? There's one that says "Angle of Entrance". GAAAH is that a motor setting, or a Porn reference? Hmm, maybe it's "PWM setting of motor" - but I have no clue what that means. It has three "helicopter modes" - but no info as to what they do or what it means!Attached FilesMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
Comment
Comment