Indeed, and good deal
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Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread
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Hey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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I want an FL 1600 Bearcat :Cool: after the 1700 Drooling:Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostHey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.
Grossman56
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostOkay, so it's agreed, first the:arrow: OV-10:Cool:, then the :arrow:1600 mm Bearcat:P, then a:arrow: 1600 Hellcat;)................
PAGING ALPHA !!!!!LOL:Gift::Gift::bluelove
Grossman56:Kiss:
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostHey Boomer, that stuff is amazing, the surface feels stronger, and a UV protectant. Three coats with a 1" foam brush, and she glows.
You can see how, what the word, unimpressive(?) the surface looks in dull blue, but put a coat of Spar Varathane on and WOW! It's like polishing an old dull car back to new again. Just look at the before and after shots.
Grossman56
is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
thanks
Bob
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Yes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostYes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.
Grossman56
Cheers
Bob
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Originally posted by Bob Symes View Post
Hi Grossman56,
is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
thanks
Bob
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Originally posted by Builda View Post
Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!
Regards
Bob
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Originally posted by Builda View Post
Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!
my local Bunnings has Cabot’s Benchtop Clear and Cabothane clear in Satin, was either of these the product you used? The benchtop is heat resistant.
thanks
Bob
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I finally got my second Bearcat ready for its maiden flight! Just have to check the C.G. on it, and when I was putting it together I put a bead of Foamtac on the hinges so I wont worry about a control surface coming loose again. :Cool:I went with the same livery that was on my first Bearcat.2 Photos
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