Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[CZ Flyer]

Where did you get the coupon if I may ask? I keep hearing of these, but never see them anywhere?

Special circumstances on this 1.. I had a "ONE DAY ONLY," 20% coupon from ebay to use on anything I wanted. At the time Motion rc website showed out of stock on the Bearcat, but their ebay posting said there were 10 available. So I assumed they set aside inventory specifically for ebay sales and placed my order. Well, after a few days I noticed it had not shipped yet & called Motion's customer service. They discovered the error in the ebay listing & gave me a discount code for that plane as soon as it came back in stock. So now I have my awesome Bearcat & Motion rc rocks.

[Chief58D]

Just joined the Bearcat club - should deliver before end of the week. :)

[Mikeinlutz]

Landing the bearcat on grass has beaten the gear and wings up. Have ripped both out of the wings,twice, foam tac to the rescue, This plane needs to be landed on pavement, take off on grass if you get her rolling a little bit will work without a nose over. Paint match at home depot. Not meant for even short grass strips. options would be larger tires which means you fly with the gear down all the time! I have the 1600 mm spitfire and take off and landings on my grass strip are not an issue s the tires are a lot larger and shock absorbing struts

[Mikeinlutz]

It seems that there has been an addition to the description of the bearcat. There is now a line called recommended environment where it says not for grass unless it is smooth and short or paved , After putting on new wings the flight today was upon landing at my grass field it snagged the left wheel and ripped out the landing gear. I am keeping foam tac in business. I will get rid of the plane as it is not suited to fly off grass unless it is a golf course putting green. Needs larger wheels that wont snag or switch to 2 bladed prop, fly with the gear up and land it on its belly!

[Grossman56]

I'd recommend that if the gear pops out, epoxy it back into place. With the length of the strut, the amount of torque applied to the retract/ wing joint in an anything but perfect landing is enough to weaken, if not pop it out. So, since it's out, use Epoxy to nail it back together again.

Grossman56

[fhhuber]

Glues don't stay stuck to EPO

One place Dynam got it right is they tend to sandwich foam between a "plate" and the retract, making it so you have to rip out a hunk of foam. rather than just pop a glue joint.

You could set up similar with a thin aluminum plate on the upper surface of the wing and carrying screws from the retract mounting lugs through the aluminum... but that leads to some cosmetic issues.

[Fallguy44]

Are the older versions, say more than a year old different from the latest versions? Or has everything remained the same? Thanks!

[Alpha]

Are the older versions, say more than a year old different from the latest versions? Or has everything remained the same? Thanks!

The production hasn't changed, they remain the same.

[Fallguy44]

The production hasn't changed, they remain the same.

Thank you!

[Scamp73]

Anybody running this on 5s?

[Fallguy44]

The manual calls for the push rods to go in control horn #1 which is the outer most hole. The hole is also larger than holes 2 and 3 as seen in the picture. Using #1 hole, there is a decent amount of play at the clevis attachment to the point that I can move the aileron up and down slightly which I can imagine isn't great for the flying. Anyone else run into this? Should I go hole #2 instead? All the control horns are this way.

[crxmanpat]

I didn't have that on mine, but since there's a little slop using the first hole, just go with the second. You will still have plenty of throw. But make sure you use the second hole on both ailerons so you won't have differential throws.

[Fallguy44]

I didn't have that on mine, but since there's a little slop using the first hole, just go with the second. You will still have plenty of throw. But make sure you use the second hole on both ailerons so you won't have differential throws.

Thanks. Weird that mine is different. Anyone else

[Fallguy44]

In case anyone searches for this in the future, I took a clevis from my Eflite p47 razorback and used them on the ailerons. The thread size is the same but the stud that goes into the control horn is a larger diameter and fits the larger hole perfectly

[RRHandy]

Glues don't stay stuck to EPO

.

FOAM-Tac, sticks and sticks well, I have gotten into the habit of grabbing the gear of a new plane and pulling the gear and pocket out and foam-tacing them in good, any surface that has contact to the foam gets glue. How many times have you seen a gear and pocket come out on a good landing yet alone bad one just to see that there is little glue, after the re-glue I've had the wing rip and the gear bend but still in place.
Dynam plates are just as bad, I have to glue the plates in just like the pocket style, think surface area when ever you glue thing.

Ron.

[Grossman56]

I run mine from the inner most hole on the servo control arm to the outer most hole of the aileron control arm.

As you can see in the picture

Grossman56

[F106DeltaDart]

Had a close call today with the Bearcat. I was pulling up from a low pass, and noticed a flash of something seemingly falling off the aircraft. I did a low pass and didn’t see anything, and finish out my flight. When I taxied back in after landing, I was surprised to find my right flap linkage dragging across the ground! The control horn pulled out, and was dangling beneath the aircraft for most of the flight. Glad it was windy, so I never used any flaps today!

[Mikeinlutz]

How to stiffen the top of the rudder? Flips over on landing. Right now using tape. Be nice if the whole tali assembly was replaceable instead of buy a whole fuse.
BTW, found a solution on landing on grass, use packing tape on the top and bottom of the wing around the retract, to stop the retract from pulling out and taking part of the wing with it

[fhhuber]

How to stiffen the top of the rudder? Flips over on landing. Right now using tape. Be nice if the whole tali assembly was replaceable instead of buy a whole fuse.
BTW, found a solution on landing on grass, use packing tape on the top and bottom of the wing around the retract, to stop the retract from pulling out and taking part of the wing with it

Get a long drill bit and CAREFULLY drill parallel to the leading edge appx 3 diameters (of the chosen CF tube) back and insert a CF tube using one of the expanding foam glues. (Gorilla Ployurethane, Gorilla Dries White... other brands) The drilled hole should be a loose fit on the CF tube.

Be sure you won't drill through any wires or hit the pushrods, etc... and you can often run the tube from top of the fin to the bottom of the fuselage.

Standard procedure for stiffening a foam tail surface. Slot in or drill a passage for a CF tube. You can substitute bamboo cooking skewer for the CF, but its heavier.

Modifying most EPO models for higher speed, you need to add the stiffness and strength to the tail surfaces. So, we've learned to do it.

[Builda]

Has everyone seen the post on MRC site that says to fly this plane with nothing under 4000mah otherwise it’s tail heavy? That’s a big lipo for such a small bird, but I’ve had no end of tail heavy issues with mine and I’ve only flown it 2 times. The retracts on this plane are a joke-I’ve had 8 PAIRS of retracts in this plane to find 2 that don’t die after being operated more than 2 times! I had actually decided to make it a belly lander and went and got the power upgrade and 2 blade prop for it-am yet to try it out. I just wondered if any of you have flown it with a 4000mah 4s in (and if y’all have also had retract unit issues with it)