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**rifleman_btx** · Aug 12, 2019, 12:24 PM

Originally posted by Elbee View Post

RM, Ah, it's elementary. The performance of ABS at lower print temps, maybe? Best, LB

Its +10°c on pla, and minus 10°c against abs. So its kinda a good middle ground, so you get better heat resistance than with pla without the warp tendency of ABS

**rifleman_btx** · Aug 12, 2019, 12:27 PM

Shes growing little more every day

**Elbee** · Sep 10, 2019, 08:42 AM

Hey 3DP Guys and Dolls, I am test printing instrument panel bits for my Freewing F-18C and the detail is high, though small. I am experiencing some 'hair-like' threads from the transitions between points. Question: Is this from the higher detail or is it possibly time to change out the 'nozzle'? Best, LB

**Dirty Dee** · Sep 10, 2019, 08:54 AM

A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles.

Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean

**Elbee** · Sep 10, 2019, 09:23 AM

Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post

A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles. Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean

DD, U B AHSUM! Also, kwik shot of the panel, slow but too much fun. Thanks, LB

**Bogietrim** · Sep 11, 2019, 05:08 PM

I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?

Thanks

**Elbee** · Sep 11, 2019, 05:46 PM

Originally posted by Bogietrim View Post

I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?Thanks

BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB

**Bogietrim** · Sep 11, 2019, 05:56 PM

Originally posted by Elbee View Post

BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB

Thanks for the info! Yes, I know there are many good choices out there, but I am looking for testimonials from guys like you that are using them for exactly what I plan to do. I will look at this one for sure. I am thinking that I will print readily available items first, but have a few ideas that I would like to try and make myself.

Thanks again!

**Dirty Dee** · Sep 11, 2019, 07:05 PM

I own 2 mk2s prusa. They are workhorses. I printed this airliner with them

**crxmanpat** · Sep 11, 2019, 08:35 PM

Another vote for the Prusa. I have the MK3 and love it!

**Elbee** · Sep 12, 2019, 11:24 AM

Hey Gang, Here is the STL file for the Freewing F-18C Front Instrument Panels. Note that I scaled this to a width that worked at roughly 1/11.5th scale. The OEM width is wider. As a result, I spaced the individual instruments to 'look good' and had to 'cut' the bottom of the Bottom MFD and eliminate the RH gauge package & LH Engines Monitor Station, etc. Point is, it looks good and fits great, so enjoy and let me know if you have any issues with the STL file. Best as always, LB

[ATTACH]n213380[/ATTACH]

***Aros*** · Sep 12, 2019, 12:44 PM

Awesome work Elbee! I've also added the link to the Support section of the F-18 product pages. Thank you!

https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...np#support-tab

Aros, You are welcome, Sir.

Best, LB

**rifleman_btx** · Sep 12, 2019, 05:57 PM

Im on a A5s AGAurora, for the past 5 months only 3 failed prints. Very happy with this guy.

these last few prints are with petg, learning more with it and i left a printed part in my car as a test for the past 3 weeks. No heat fatigue.

**Dirty Dee** · Sep 12, 2019, 06:12 PM

Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders.

Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle

**Elbee** · Sep 12, 2019, 08:01 PM

Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post

Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders. Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle

DD, Many thanks, Sir. I will give these a try. Best, LB

**Dirty Dee** · Sep 13, 2019, 09:42 AM

If folks haven't seen this, a designer has made an L-39 and a HE-162 for 120mm EDFs. He also has designed working 3D printable 120mm EDFs that you can use with these, and have good thrust and flight times.

I bought the L-39 files and I am starting to print in ABS. They are similar to the 3DLab designs, and are geared for 1-wall PETG/PLA printing.

He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.

EL-39 - Semi scale RC jet for 120 mm EDF

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/el-39-semi-scale-rc-jet-for-120-mm-edf

EDIT - 29.08.2023 I added a reinforcement block (WingReinforcement.stl) for the inner wing panel that increases the torsional rigidity of the wing by preventing deformation of a weak spot under landing loads. Install according to the illustration. I also added a new impeller for the EDF that sounds great and might give a slight performance improvement (Gleich-Impeller07-12b-fat-Newblade.stl). ---------------- EDIT - 20.05.2022: New EDF impeller with 18 blades. It sounds much better and performs well. Flight video: https://youtu.be/XvHo3N9S8D0 --------- EDIT - 20.09.2021: New front nose piece with clamshell hatch for making access to a battery or whatever you want to put in the nose. Use an M3 screw to hold it closed. --- EDIT -22.07.2021: Added a new EDF housing that can use the HET motor without any heatsink because the heat sink can be hard to find now. EDF-housing04-Noheatsink.stl It supports the motor all the way through and has a gap for air to pass around the motor. It should be printed from a more heat resistant material than PLA, and that goes for the impeller as well because the lack of an extra heatsink can raise the motor and axle temperature to where the PLA will start to soften. --- EDIT: Added a new canopy that is one main piece instead of two for printing in a very large printer (in addition to the front windshield part). The new files are Canopy01-onepiece and canopy02-onepiece. The human is not included. --- Specifications: Length: 1858,5 mm Wingspan: 1451 mm All up weight: 7,2 kg (prototype #1), 8 kg (prototype #2), 7,5 kg (prototype #3) CG: 83-103 mm from the leading edge at the wing joint with the gear in the up position. There is a protrusion on the top of each wing surface to indicate the safe 83mm/25% MAC position. Gear up or down should make little difference because of the low weight of the nose gear. The prototype maidened with CG at approximately 90 mm. 103 mm CG has been tested and flies very well. Needs a large printer. 300x300x300 is recommended. --- Initial control throws: Elevator: Up 18 mm / Down 16 mm Ailerons: Up 20 mm / Down 15 mm Rudder: 15mm / 15 mm Use 30% exponential on all surfaces to reduce center sensitivity. --- Appropriate pilot figure: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2970724 --- Video of the prototype without flaps: https://youtu.be/znbaBhUY25k Maiden videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tShEHO5M5s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp0sF1WKZ7w High speed fly bys and landings compilation: https://youtu.be/KzPiHn8WywE Onboard videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDD7gKV2YSY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_93jys9oADY Various flight videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcE9QgbNThE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZJCof5v06M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpYUfhk2Kec https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4S3TekVd6I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWw4-YrTFSI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBd4eTZwPW4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnProCnHUOs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EPln7NoYhA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67ruv_F0Jjk --- Build notes and BOM is moved to the text file BuildNotes.txt because of new limitations on Cults when i updated the page 17.11.2020.

Giant 1:4,5 scale Heinkel He-162 A2 RC jet model

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/giant-1-4-5-scale-heinkel-he-162-a2-rc-jet-model

Temporary safety warning: I recommend stiffening the wheel bay doors with some carbon tow or cloth diagonally to prevent deforming at high speed. I want to design stiffer doors but as a temporary fix I recommend the reinforcements. ---------------------- Update: An error was discovered in Wing01.STL that prevented the flap from moving. This happened because I didn't finish an update before I uploaded. I'm very sorry for this. The fix if you have already printed parts can be found in the RCGroups thread in post 603, so it's not necessary to print a whole new wing. Basically it involves cutting a small square from the flap and gluing in a small piece to the hinge point on the wing to fill the void: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3116478-3D-printed-He-162-for-120-mm-EDF/page21&perpage=30#post48352905 The new Wing01.stl you download from here on Cults now is changed to allow the new flap to rotate. ----------------------------- 1:4,5 scale model of the Heinkel He-162. Length: 1996 mm (without pitot tube) Wingspan: 1580 mm Flying weight: 7,5 kg Power: ~4000 W Minimum printer size for the biggest parts: 280x280x300 mm Many parts will print on smaller 200x200x180 CG: 83 mm - Should be slightly forward with gear down and slightly aft with gear up Elevator throw: 20 mm up and down Aileron throw: 20 mm up and down Rudder throw: 12 mm left and right Prototype videos: https://youtu.be/EDEhikNloU8 https://youtu.be/c0MWYCIPg6g (Note that the prototype did not have reinforced landing gear like the files here. I'm reprinting with the reinforcements) Final version video with reinforced undercarriage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHlbqoq0Mpk Very good stall characteristics and gentle handling in flight. The prototype had a top speed of 228 km/h with the 3D printed EDF. There is no bad handling because of the high thrust line because it is compensated for in the design. The EDF intake is larger than scale for more airflow to the 120 mm EDF. The turbine intake is closer to scale size. I have no intention of trying turbines myself but There is room in the fuselage for all kinds of tanks. I can design a turbine nacelle if there is a need for one with a larger internal cavity than the duct. I added a separate Exhaust piece for small turbines for those that want to try that. Exhaust02-turbine has 6,6mm slots in the sides for glueing in 6 mm or 1/4" plywood mounting rails for turbines like Kingtech K45 at the proper angle (2° down thrust). The top of the plywood rails will be the center of the duct. The canopy has 4mm holes on each side in the front for adding 4mm latching mechanism. You'll need ~4x30mm rods with a 2mm hole drilled perpendicular for ~2x10mm rods (handles to fit into. You also need 3mm-4mm diameter springs if you want the latch to lock in place with spring tension. The same Warning, skills like basic metalwork and brazing (silver soldering) is required to finish this model, as well as general model setup know-how. Don't buy this if you don't know how to do DIY stuff like that, or are not willing to figure it out. If precise center drilling isn't possible then a pre made shaft coupler can be used between the threaded rod and actuator shaft instead, for example a 3x5mm (or 3x4 threaded to M5) here: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F5-10pcs-Brass-Shaft-Coupling-Coupler-Motor-Transmission-Connector-2-3-4-5-6MM%2F223717654597 I mistakenly linked to the wrong retract sequencer before. It should be V1, not V2. ----------------------------------- Build notes: Make sure you don't glue the h-stabs together and to the fuselage before the elevators are ready and assembled together with the h-stabs. If you glue them in too early you will have to figure out a way to install the elevators afterwards since the hinges are protruding from the nds of the elevator. In such a case I suggest printing each elevator as three parts and glueing them together in place in the elevator slot. The y-shaped Fuselage04-brace under the main langing gear bay should have a ~500 mm 4mm rod of carbon through it and into Fuselage03 and Fuselage05 as one illustration shows, to strengthen the belly of the fuselage and tie the whole thing together. If this is forgotten I suggest simply adding some carbon or fiberglass tow or ribbon along the bottom of the fuselage. Most control surface hinge pins should be 3 mm carbon rods. How it goes together is obvious when you have the parts in hand. The elevator uses 6 mm tube and 6x15x5 ball bearings for the inside hinge point where the control arm will be. You must make and install the control arm before you glue the horizontal stabs to the fuselage or else it will be more difficult. ----------------------------------- Safety warnings: -The EDF s a very highly loaded assembly at high speed so it's important that you know what you are doing. -Make sure the integrity of the printed impeller is good before trying to run it. -Always wear protective glasses when test runnin the fan. Always protect your eyes. -Do NOT run the fan at high power while holding in your hand. -Keep your hands and any loose items away from the fan when running. It WILL shred your fingers if they get sucked in, and the suction force is very strong. If something gets sucked in it can damage the impeller and potentially shatter, throwing loose debris out. ------------------------------------ Landing gear parts: Uses retract actuators from JP to retract the landing gear which is integrated: http://www.hobby-china.com/control-box-v1-for-gear-operation-jp-hobby.html http://www.hobby-china.com/motor-parts-for-jp-aer-7-3-jp-hobby-alloy-electric-retracts-for-7-8-kg.html 2x 130 mm shocks: https://www.banggood.com/4PC-180007-130MM-Aluminum-Alloy-Front-Rear-Shock-Absorber-For-HSP-Rc-Car-Climbing-Rock-Crawler-p-1305169.html?ID=232&cur_warehouse=CN 2x 1,4x10x50 mm springs for the main gear: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4mm-WD-9mm-OD-Stainless-Steel-Compression-Spring-Compressed-Pressure-Springs/272632001985 0,8x9x60 mm tension spring for the nose gear (I made mine from spring stock) M5 threaded rod stock and M5 nuts to make actuator lead screws from Williams Bros 5-1/4 tires can be used instead of the printed tires. Ask WB to sell tires only to avoid having to remove the hub: http://www.wmbros.com/store/p53/Smooth_Balloon-II%2C_5-1%2F4%22_Diameter%2C_1_Pair.html Dubro smooth 3-1/4" nose wheel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372109961103 4x 47ODx3,5 mm O-rings for the brakes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253621698783 Requires the following carbon fiber tubes and rods: 1x 16x14x770 mm tube for the wings 2x 16x14x84 mm tubes for the lower main gear struts 2x 18x16x157 mm tubes for the upper main gear struts 1x 8x6x300 mm tube for the wings 1x 8x6x167 mm tube for the nose gear strut 1x 6x4x900 mm tube for elevator control Various lengths of 6 mm tube or rod for strengthening the landing gear mount area Various lengths of 3mm and 4 mm carbon fiber rod for hinging and reinforcement. The control surfaces use 3mm carbon rods. You'll need ~5 1m rods. Screws: Various M3 screws and nuts from 8 mm length to 40 mm length Various M2 screws from 10 to 20 mm length M3x5 and 12 mm grub screws M6x80 mm screws for the main gear strut mounts M6x50 mm hex head bolts for the main wheels Ball bearings: 12x 6x15x5 mm for the main gear and elevators 4x 4x11x4 mm for the nose gear Servos: 3x JX DHV56MG for the nose steering and wheel brakes: https://www.banggood.com/4PCS-JX-Servo-DHV56MG-5_6g-DS-Digital-Coreless-MG-Metal-Gear-HV-Servo-1_2kg-0_10sec-For-RC-Airplane-p-1430838.html?cur_warehouse=CN7x Corona CS-238MG (or similar size servo with 4+ kgf/cm torque) for all control surfaces. Flaps and elevator can use standard servos instead: https://www.banggood.com/Corona-CS238MG-Thin-Metal-Wing-Analog-Servo-p-1049129.html 1x "9g" servo for the nose gear door Power for the printable EDF unit: 2x 6S 5000 mAh lipos (Gens Ace 45C recommended) Castle Creations Talon HV 120 ESC Het 800-73-590kv motor with heatsink:https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/50-56mm-brushless-motors/285-typhoon-het-edf-800-73-motor-50mm-590kv.html https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/heat-sink/1075-heat-sink-75mm-for-50mm-motor-and-ejets-jetfan-120-edf.html The stand uses a 16x585 mm tube as the center member. I used locally sourced aluminum tubing. The stand is supposed to support the plane immediately aft of the gear wells and at the joint between Fuselage02 and Fuselage03. If the 3D printable fan is used, the recommended HET motor should also be used with the heatsink. The motor shaft should have a hole drilled half way through it for one of the M3-16 mm impeller grub screws, because heat soak from the motor can cause the impeller to come loose if just a flat spot is used. The prototype fan pulled 100 A at full throttle on a fresh 12S charge when installed in the HE-162.

**Elbee** · Sep 13, 2019, 10:46 AM

Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post

He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.

DD, You are a "Mad Man", Sir. I love it. I have been working on 3DP brakes for a couple months now, using a set of very old aluminum discs and phenolic half circles with a rounded brass rectangle as the actuator as the starting point. Your picture is the same principle only scaled up with plastic half circles and 'o-rings' versus the phenolic half circles only. Much simpler for sure and probably more effective. The issue at smaller scales is still the method to actuate the brakes without adding more complexity. I will 'endeavor to persevere' and will soon have this figured out. Any ideas by other modelers on a simple actuating method or design would be appreciated. I think we would all like a truly simple braking system that can be customized AND 3DP scaled to any wheel manufacturers' product. Best, LB

**rifleman_btx** · Sep 13, 2019, 02:43 PM

I seen it just been going back and forth on rather or not i want to try it. With petg i might be game for it!

**Hardway** · Sep 13, 2019, 03:46 PM

Go bro! It would look too cool. Doing OK?

**rifleman_btx** · Sep 14, 2019, 10:43 AM

So so just a rough weekend already. Football night to cross country morning traveling half the state with 2 hours sleep in between.

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