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  • Thanks brother, it was great feeling flying it. Looking forward to more flights :)

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    • New wing for the f86 complete, starting the new fuselage now.

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      • Recently I tested a black ABS print against the summer heat. Left the pieces out in 94 deg F weather on asphalt for about 20 minutes. Surface temperature reached 141 deg F with no signs of softening or warping.

        I have some "black bird" designs planned after validating this, and I already started on the first one. Should have something to show in the next week or 2



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        • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
          Recently I tested a black ABS print against the summer heat. Left the pieces out in 94 deg F weather on asphalt for about 20 minutes. Surface temperature reached 141 deg F with no signs of softening or warping. I have some "black bird" designs planned after validating this, and I already started on the first one. Should have something to show in the next week or 2.
          DD, We have a "Habu" here in Hutchinson at the Cosmosphere. It hangs from the girders, but if you need some photos of a specific part, I will be happy to 'give it go'. Access is good to the bottom side obviously, and from the front as it hangs at an angle with the nose about 5 feet from the floor. Let me know if I can assist. Best, LB
          I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
          ~Lucky B*st*rd~

          You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
          ~Anonymous~

          AMA#116446

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          • Cool, I'll keep that offer in mind. First plane I plan to tackle would be the U-2R before I move onto the SR-71 and F117

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            • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
              Cool, I'll keep that offer in mind. First plane I plan to tackle would be the U-2R before I move onto the SR-71 and F117
              If you could make a 3D printed F117 it would save me a lot of time scratch building one but I am not going to hold my breath as I am sure it would be a ways off.

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              • Very cool stuff

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                • Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post

                  If you could make a 3D printed F117 it would save me a lot of time scratch building one but I am not going to hold my breath as I am sure it would be a ways off.
                  you were making one for a 90mm fan right? I was planning on making one for a 50 or 70mm fan. If I did the 50mm, it might be pretty quick, but the 70 would be over a year out. I still want to make a 1/10th scale OV-10, an X-32 for 70mm, and a 717 for twin 50s

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                  • progress shot. I will start a thread on it in a week I think

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                    • Looks great

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                      • I think I have a pretty good representation of a dragon lady

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                        • Thats gonna be awesome

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                          • She is reborn, ready to fly!

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                              • Here is something I found out from others and tested out myself.

                                If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can use that nozzle as a "0.3" or "0.25"mm nozzle by altering the settings in the slicer. Obviously, the prints may turn out a better quality with the actual 0.3 or 0.25 nozzles, but this is an easy way to try out finer printing. You just need to make sure to bump down the layer height to 0.15mm for 0.3mm nozzle settings, and 0.1mm for 0.25mm nozzle settings.

                                Attached picture of the U-2R horizontal stabilizer printed with a normal 0.4mm nozzle setting, and another with the fake 0.3mm.

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                                • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
                                  Here is something I found out from others and tested out myself.

                                  If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can use that nozzle as a "0.3" or "0.25"mm nozzle by altering the settings in the slicer. Obviously, the prints may turn out a better quality with the actual 0.3 or 0.25 nozzles, but this is an easy way to try out finer printing. You just need to make sure to bump down the layer height to 0.15mm for 0.3mm nozzle settings, and 0.1mm for 0.25mm nozzle settings.

                                  Attached picture of the U-2R horizontal stabilizer printed with a normal 0.4mm nozzle setting, and another with the fake 0.3mm.
                                  DD, Great Tip. Are you printing with ABS or PLA or something else? The finish is very smooth. Best, LB
                                  I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                                  ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                                  You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                                  ~Anonymous~

                                  AMA#116446

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                                  • Printing in ABS. 255 deg C nozzle, 80 deg C bed, no cooling fan. Cardboard box enclosure to remove drafts, and increase ambient temps slightly

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                                    • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
                                      Printing in ABS. 255 deg C nozzle, 80 deg C bed, no cooling fan. Cardboard box enclosure to remove drafts, and increase ambient temps slightly
                                      How do you get around the warping that ABS is prone to? What ambient do you run?

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                                      • I rarely have warping issues. Occasionally I get elephant footing at the bottom 15mm of a part. Very large flat vertical sections like the belly fairing of my Airbus also gave me issues.

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                                        • Interesting, can definitely see the quality jump in there. I like it!

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