Official 3DP Thread

[slamdance64]

Here is my Lack enclosure. I embedded IKea LED puck lights in the top. There is also a smoke detector just in case.

Also the space between the legs is exactly 19inches so standard A/V and computer rack mounted gear can be attached. I added a shelf holding an old Surface 1 computer and a pull out keyboard below to drive updates etc.

That's a nice setup Gilatrout. I am sure that I have a spare 19" rack mount drawer (or sliding version) for a Surface. I may just put in a rasberry Pi Zero W so I can print direct from my PC. We will see.

I am having a second attempt at printing PTEG, as my first attempt I read that it may be super stuck to the bed so use windex instead. Well all that did was peel from the bed. That was a learning exercise. I had to use acetone to bring the print bed back to normal. Things are going much better the 2nd time :-)

[Gilatrout]

That's a nice setup Gilatrout. I am sure that I have a spare 19" rack mount drawer (or sliding version) for a Surface. I may just put in a rasberry Pi Zero W so I can print direct from my PC. We will see.

I am having a second attempt at printing PTEG, as my first attempt I read that it may be super stuck to the bed so use windex instead. Well all that did was peel from the bed. That was a learning exercise. I had to use acetone to bring the print bed back to normal. Things are going much better the 2nd time :-)

I generally prefer PETG these days. Some thermal resistance, but still fairly easy to print.

I'll have to try the Windex thing because if the print cools it's almost impossible to remove from the bed.

One thing I didn't mention is I have a foam mat under the printer to dampen vibrations. Just a simple black craft foam rectangle I got from Hobby Lobby. You can find it in the kids crafts section there.

Right now I'm working on a charging case that uses both 3D printed and laser cut parts. It's coming out really nicely. I should start a thread on it. I've also recently made a scaleish pitot tube for the big Carbon Z Cessna I'm repainting. It's plumbed for the Spektrum airspeed telemetry module, but I haven't decided to include the module in the finished plane.

[slamdance64]

Well, I am having no problems printing with PETG now. I think that it will be my go to as well. I will be printing my cockpit set for my A-10 from DirtyDee in PETG in between our OpenRC F1 cars.
I will try to fit in a MiG-15 part or two as well.

[rifleman_btx]

8 of 12 printed and glued together

[fhhuber]

Printed a few silly little chuck gliders... Now trying an RC flying wing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2044074

The nose has started printing.
I might have a printed plane in about a week...

[Elbee]

8 of 12 printed and glued together

RM, Lookin' Good. Have you printed the canopy parts? I bought a neutral or clear and printed it, but will need to find a matching silver or grey to paint the fuse portion of the canopy parts. What's your plan? Best, LB

[fhhuber]

RM, Lookin' Good. Have you printed the canopy parts? I bought a neutral or clear and printed it, but will need to find a matching silver or grey to paint the fuse portion of the canopy parts. What's your plan? Best, LB

Silver paint is a problem...

most of the good metallics are not water based, so the common recommendation of Home Dept sample latex will not work. Color match is pretty much not going to happen.

Metallics also amplify all defects.

So I'd plan on a sandable automotive primer, wet sand it smooth then a good metalic spray paint.

My 3D prints in silver PLA (looks more like aged aluminum with the grey patina that develops) have a different color appearance just by changing orientation of the print. Metallics are that sensitive.

[Elbee]

Silver paint is a problem...

most of the good metallics are not water based, so the common recommendation of Home Dept sample latex will not work. Color match is pretty much not going to happen.

Metallics also amplify all defects.

So I'd plan on a sandable automotive primer, wet sand it smooth then a good metallic spray paint.

My 3D prints in silver PLA (looks more like aged aluminum with the grey patina that develops) have a different color appearance just by changing orientation of the print. Metallics are that sensitive.

FHH, That is precisely why I was asking. I do like your idea about priming and THEN painting the clear parts and I also like the finish of the silver PLA. Thank you. Best, LB

[fhhuber]

Silver paint also has a really hard time covering other colors. Worst coverage of any paint color. I'm repainting a Dynam P-51 and its taking several coats to cover white places the foam shows through the old silver. Each coat on the old silver makes it more solid... so the defect keeps showing as thinner paint than the surrounding area.

[Elbee]

FHH, that is why I use black primer if I am painting an airframe for the first time. I like the way silver or any metallic paint looks on black though if one is color matching or repairing, I see your point that could be a problem. Best, LB:Cool:

[Hardway]

Black primer is a must on metallic finished airframes, or else you get so much variance, it drives you to drink Marker's Mark..... Oh wait... That is why there are imperfections!!! :P:P:Cool::Cool::Cool::Cool::Scared:

[fhhuber]

Got the nose done.
Just that part... almost 7 hours

Started the main fuselage

[Elbee]

Black primer is a must on metallic finished airframes, or else you get so much variance, it drives you to drink Marker's Mark..... Oh wait... That is why there are imperfections!!! :P:P:Cool::Cool::Cool::Cool::Scared:

HRDWY, Great to read your voice LOL hope all is well in your part of the Texas. Best to you and yours, LB

[Dirty Dee]

I'm in the process of priming my parts.Cant wait to see how much smoother they will be on the second coat.

[rifleman_btx]

RM, Lookin' Good. Have you printed the canopy parts? I bought a neutral or clear and printed it, but will need to find a matching silver or grey to paint the fuse portion of the canopy parts. What's your plan? Best, LB

Yes sir i did, im going to just go with black for the canopy glass... i know, easy way out. But i didnt want to change filament midstream jinxing my progressLOL

[rifleman_btx]

I'm in the process of priming my parts.Cant wait to see how much smoother they will be on the second coat.

Wooohoo! Looking great brother!:Cool:

[slamdance64]

Very cool looking Rifleman! It's pretty big when put together. I am ready to start my MiG-15 tomorrow night. I was just waiting for some new PLA material to arrive which it did today :-)

[F4ucorsair]

hey guys just finished watchin a motian video,, jeremy solt painted an L39... 6 months old sorry// he did an awsome job.. but am i the only one who hates the extreme shine,,, 4 me i like a flat finish.. never been to an airshow here with polished waxed warbirds.., u can get matt clears,, they do protect the the surface... im an auto painter.... one more thing any house hold masking tape has low tak,,( NO PEEL BACK) use thinner tape and add a little masking paper ,,, or newspaper its free happy painting ..one last thing if u wana save weight,, there r many thin lightweight ,, adhesion promoters available,, auto trade dupont etc.. only light coat req again happy flying

[rifleman_btx]

Fuselage is complete, got the left drop tank printed, printing the right one overnight. Just ordered all the electronics 87% of which from motion, 10 servos, esc and 12 blade fan. Ordered retracts through hobby king, and reciever off Amazon. Going to have 3 completed projects done before i get my motors for my pby, and the print, radio program, escs and servos are all set ready to go. :Angry:

[RCjetdude]

It's a beast isn't it? Mine is not quite as far along as yours.