The AR 6/8/10 RX's have 14/12/10 "Ghost" channels in addition to the "plug in" channels, so all have 20 total channels. The plus upgrade did not change this, only making the gyro more responsive and allowing a separate programmable gyro for nose wheel and additional separate gyro capability for something like Thrust Vectoring nozzles.
In addition to their RX upgrades, Spektrum also upgraded several of their TX's via online downloads. I know for certain that included my IX 14, making it a 20 channel TX (Sweeeeet, saved me $1,200 by not needing an IX20). I believe the NX also can be upgraded to 20 channels, but not sure about the NX7e.
Regardless, you can use your 7 channel TX if not upgradable, the way it is for nose wheel steering and 6 other plug in servos with an AR8360T. Or use that 7th channel for reverse. With an AR637T in the F4, no separate nose wheel or thrust reverse. If your NX is upgradable with more channels, you can have both with an AR8360T.
Why have so many ghost channels and only 6/8/10 plug in channel? I use ghost channels (aux 1-15) for all kinds of 💩. Right top knob, aux 3 (for example) gives me the ability to adjust gains in flight. My flaps are tied to switch D with delay on aux 1. I also designate switch D to aux4 and use that to change gyro flight modes. So my switch D does 2 things, first deploys flaps with a programmed delay of 4 sec, and increases gyro settings (without that delay) for take off flaps and even more on landing flaps.
There are many other goodies to assign to the ghost (non plug in) channels as long as your TX has those channels.
Enough of my mouth diarrhea 🤮
Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread
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I only have an nx7e at the moment,,,(tighta???) Me,, should spent extra couple hundred for 8 or 10....
but with the plus receiver its been said(extra channels)??? So question is can i still have seperate channel for steerable nose wheel
inc still having reverse
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Hey Matt,Hello, I was a f4 plane captain with VMFAT-101 from 83 through 86 in Yuma AZ. I started flying rc planes in 1986 and have been flying EDF'S of all sizes, war birds and sport jets for 4 years. I'm finally going to pull the trigger on this F4 but I have a question for you experienced f4 pilots. Is the performance of the 6S plenty good or do you guys think the 8S Is the way to go? I know these type of questions are subjective and depends on a lot of things. But what does your gut say? I like speed but I don't have to have the fastest, know what I mean? I have plenty of 6S batteries but to run 8S I would have to get some 2 cells or buy some 4 cells. Which is not to big of a deal. If I get the 6S would I regret it and wished I had gotten the 8S? I've never flown 8S but I'm not scared of it. I do value like minded rc pilots opinion. Just having trouble deciding. Thanks in advance fellas.
Regards
Matt
For what it's worth, IMO the Freewing 90mm F4 is significantly better on 8S than 6S. I had 2 F'4s on 6S that I upgraded to the bigger 12 blade 4068 6S inrunner and flew them for 4 years logging over 300 flights. One of my top favorite EDF's. Then I decided to upgrade one to 8S. The upgrade was significant and nearby pilots could hear my constantly saying HOLY
​ . I do not fly for speed but the maneuverability seemed far better, not having to go to full throttle on loops/cuban 8's/split S's, etc. where at the top of the turn with 6S on a full throttle too tight loop it would result in slight wing stall. Never on 8S even below full throttle. Additionally, this F4 does not have any "cheater holes" for the fan intakes and occasionally on a mid throttle too tight rudder turns when lining up the runway, I was just beginning to experience a stall as I believe the inner intake was not getting enough air (but you being a REAL F4 pilot might know if that's true, man I'm so jealous of you being a real F4 pilot!! how awesome!!

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​). This F4 on 8S is a real pleasure to fly and it seems some of us (me included at first) were a bit intimidated in flying it because of those angled horizontal stabs. Loved it on 8S so much I bought another stock 8S and did it in the Jolly Rodgers. The RX I used was an AR8360T, then Spektrum upgraded them to what they call +. Now that was a quantum leap for my F4's (and all my aircraft-most notably for landing). The Gyro much more active with the ability to put the nose wheel on it's own gyro along with other great upgrades. I have to say that now it flies even better, if that's possible. Not only is it incredibly stable in the air, but landing is almost on auto pilot. I was able to move the cg back 10-15mm with much better results (without +, flew best at manual cg of 190mm but a little nose heavy-so landings not as easy as I'd like). All my military edf's I fly at least 20-40mm back of recommendations, but the F4 was not one of those. Moving the cg back 10-15mm on the 8S F4 along with the + upgrade resulted in my landings becoming almost picture perfect and simple, with the nose up about 10-15 degrees without much up elevator at 25-30% throttle, nice slow speed then dropping throttle to 15% and she touches down like feather. And my landing adventures has always been my Achilles heel, no longer thanks to + and so far consistently perfect landings on all my military edf's with +, even the squirrely F18! And trust me, it ain't the Pilot.

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Flight time on an SMC HiV 8S 5900 is 5 minutes or more, depending on throttle management, but you don't need full throttle unless you want it in flight. The battery bay is expansive enough to easily accommodate any pack size you want, even 8S 7-8000's if you want, but I recommend the 5900 which weighs only 930 gr. Additionally, the T designation in the RX name includes some great telemetry. The absolute most useful is in-flight battery pack voltage. I set it for 45 second call outs of flight pack voltage and a warning when it gets to 29.1 volts (HiV full charge is 34.8 v) so I don't have to completely rely on my timer, but instead I know exactly when to land to avoid any problems.
So bottom line is GET THE 8S!!!!
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And you can use channel 8 for nosewheel steering. The AS3X+ firmware adds nosewheel stabilisation. Note that most of the new style AS3X receivers can be updated.Leave a comment:
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Cauze ive got a 90 fms avanti coming 631 willgo good in that Land slower
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The Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom is finally here, combining stunning scale detail, versatile power options, and excellent performance. With its SEA camo livery, grass-friendly gear, and customization potential, it’s a must-have for RC jet enthusiasts. A perfect tribute to the iconic Phantom!Leave a comment:
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Thank you nuts and volts and f4u ausie for the well thought out and reasonable responses. You have both given me valid points to consider. Thanks as well for the reminder about the elevator linkage mod. You would think that would have been fixed by Freewing by now. But thanks and I will do that mod before it's first flight. Since I live in Montana but work on turbines in the oil patch in Texas I will place my order on Sunday 11/24 so I will be on my off time for the delivery. I need to decide which one pretty quick. I am leaning towards the 8S but I will kick it around a bit more. Thank you for your time and thoughts. Callie is making up my units decals and I will post a few pics when complete. We flew F4 J, N, S models before converting to F18's i would make mine a S model if I could put on leading edge slats 🤣
so a J it will be.Leave a comment:
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Yes this is just an opinion.... i got mine(camo) as an 8s... but i had no 4s batteries,, so first 6 or so flights were on 6s,, (i had an 1835 hp fan) 3 minuts was about max 4 meHello, I was a f4 plane captain with VMFAT-101 from 83 through 86 in Yuma AZ. I started flying rc planes in 1986 and have been flying EDF'S of all sizes, war birds and sport jets for 4 years. I'm finally going to pull the trigger on this F4 but I have a question for you experienced f4 pilots. Is the performance of the 6S plenty good or do you guys think the 8S Is the way to go? I know these type of questions are subjective and depends on a lot of things. But what does your gut say? I like speed but I don't have to have the fastest, know what I mean? I have plenty of 6S batteries but to run 8S I would have to get some 2 cells or buy some 4 cells. Which is not to big of a deal. If I get the 6S would I regret it and wished I had gotten the 8S? I've never flown 8S but I'm not scared of it. I do value like minded rc pilots opinion. Just having trouble deciding. Thanks in advance fellas.
Regards
Matt
,, to nervous to stall in the turns.. onc i got 2 sets(4 batts) hrb 6000 4s the8s setup went in,, well its like going from a smallblock chevy too a big block 454,, massive tourqe.. especially if taking off of grass.. i feel its more locked in..but as well 4 minute flight times.. ( what a bonus) so for me its a no brainer.. i now have maybe 25 flights just luv it, im sure i will get a gray navy version at some point... do upgrde the elev linkage etc,, (not that far back this thread),, good luck u will enjoy it,, post pics.. of course thats just my 2 cents worth
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Hi Matt. I have 390+ flights on my F-4. Documented. All on 6s. Of course there will be folks who will say 8s is better. Agreed. I am certain it is better. You will get more speed and vertical with the 8. Power management comes into play on either pack. But there is also the charging perspective. Me personally, I like the ease of charging a 6s Lipo and easily taking a few to the field.
The jet flies very scale with 6. Still plenty fast. Big loops, Cubans, etc. You can do anything the real one can do. I do recommend no less than a 6200. This will give a 3.5 minute flight. It can carry weight easily so 7000 packs are not out of the question and of course will produce more flight time. It is a very scale flying jet and is absolutely one of my best favorites. It never fails to impress at the field.Leave a comment:
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Hello, I was a f4 plane captain with VMFAT-101 from 83 through 86 in Yuma AZ. I started flying rc planes in 1986 and have been flying EDF'S of all sizes, war birds and sport jets for 4 years. I'm finally going to pull the trigger on this F4 but I have a question for you experienced f4 pilots. Is the performance of the 6S plenty good or do you guys think the 8S Is the way to go? I know these type of questions are subjective and depends on a lot of things. But what does your gut say? I like speed but I don't have to have the fastest, know what I mean? I have plenty of 6S batteries but to run 8S I would have to get some 2 cells or buy some 4 cells. Which is not to big of a deal. If I get the 6S would I regret it and wished I had gotten the 8S? I've never flown 8S but I'm not scared of it. I do value like minded rc pilots opinion. Just having trouble deciding. Thanks in advance fellas.
Regards
MattLeave a comment:
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That was my issue also with the nose door dragging the paint off the strut. I'll post something when I get it figured out. Hopefully soon, but I think your right about the c hinge helping to offset the door better.Leave a comment:
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Worth a shot? Maybe? I modded the nose gear doors (1:1 scale 3 doors rather than the OEM clamshell 2 doors) for my Freewing Fa-18C Hornet and added the strut door. I used 0.5" brass tubing for the strut door slide and cut it to 0,09" width to slide over the long OEM plastic strut brace. Works fine, but scratches the strut paint a little. Sounds like a good idea to start. Best, Steve -
That was my thought also. Only issue is with the gear door pressed against the strut the stand off likes to catch the stepped down part of the strut and bind up. Maybe a piece of brass tube over that portion will help it just slide against the strut.Leave a comment:
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Maverickpro,
Would it be possible to hinge the strut door to the fairing just forward with a "C" style hinge?
Then you could add a support to the strut to move the strut door at the angle you show.
Then use a small gauge expansion spring around the strut to hold the door in place which would allow the retract to fully seat closed?
I think that is where I would start to experiment if it were me.
Best, SteveLeave a comment:
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Yeah I looked through the thread also, seen some beautiful F4s but nothing in how the nose gear door was attached and functional on the F4E variant. I did contact Chris at rcgeek. Maybe he has a way of doing it. From what I see the nose gear strut when retracted in the up position is very far from that door. So maybe some type of spring or rubber bands will need to be used to keep the door closed. But when the gear comes down that door tilts forward and kind of stand off from the strut. So maybe wire o keep it off the strut when gear is down. Ill get it figured out some way. Just wanted to see if someone built a better mouse trap lol.
thank you again...Leave a comment:
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MP, I looked through this thread and could not find references to RCjetdude's F-4E build.
He used The RC Geek "E" 3DP parts and did a fantastic mod.
My only suggestion would be to contact Chris Wolfe and seek some advice.
I do remember RC Jet Dude cut the fairing at the separation lines and glued it to the gear door.
Seemed like a fairly simple task, but I am not the one doing it obviously.
Wanted to be of more help.
Best, LBLeave a comment:
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Hi Elbee, no unfortunately I couldn't find a video for his product. I've attached pics of the nose strut door resting on the fairing.2 PhotosLeave a comment:
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Maverickpro
Welcome to Hobby Squawk.
Doesn't Chris have a video on the website about installing this/his mod?
Without seeing all the other parts, it would be tough to assist.
Best, LBLeave a comment:


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