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Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Ime intermediate pilot. And have around 40 flights on this now.. a mix of 6 and 8s.. feel very comfortable now..
    I'm not as tech savvy as the above fellas.. first flight flew it fast.. as I got more. Comfortable,,and started slowing it down. I had a couple similar instances just like that..like an uncommanded roll.. in the turn.... Now I do not slow it so much in turns.
    And keep up the speed. In a larger pattern.
    Vwala has not happened again.


    In short the simpleton (that's me). Opinion is as above.
    Sppeeed.

    It's not a Cessna .. it's meant for speed and doesn't glider guy give the best tech information


    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Guillermo View Post
    Hi everyone. I want to ask you all a question. I have done 4 flights with my new F4, and I have noticed that when turning right or left, it is quite abrupt and tends to keep turning, giving a strange and unpleasant sensation. Maybe you see it as normal, but for me, it is not. I have been in this hobby for 30 years, and this is my third EDF, and I have never noticed this behavior before. I have tried with less aileron travel, but I can't improve that response. Is this how it behaves? Is it an initial tendency to stall? The flights have been relatively calm to check the battery life, and I don't want to give it much speed for now...
    Hey G,

    Are using any rudder input while turning?

    Gotta keep your nose up and as GliderGuy nailed it, you must keep up your speed, as well.

    This is much like the 1:1.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • GliderGuy
    replied
    Hi Guillermo….
    Assuming your electronics are OK, the behavior you describe may be due to what is commonly referred to as “tip stall”. The wing that is on the inside of the turn travels a shorter path. The outside wing travels a longer path.

    A good analogy is a line of skaters on a rope going in a circle. The skaters closest to the center are SLOW compared to the skater on the outside/end of the rope.

    The inside wing in a turn may stall (going slower) and rapidly drop. Until that wing unstalls, no amount of aileron will raise it.

    So, how to mitigate this…..

    1) Release any up elevator you are holding. This reduces the wing’s angle of attack, and the wing will start flying again. Then the aileron can lift it.
    2) Fly faster. Airspeed is life! The wing is “farther” away from the stall speed. Add power as you enter the bank.
    3) Make more shallow banks. Steep banks exacerbate the “skaters on a rope” effect.

    We STRESS sooo much to our full-scale glider students to keep airspeed in the pattern, keep the yaw string straight, and don’t make steep banks down low.

    -GG

    Aside: Sailplanes on winch or auto tows or RC sailplanes on high start tows may suddenly experience a tip stall during the beginning of the tow as the nose comes rapidly up. Accidents have occurred as a tip stalls and that wing suddenly drops. No amount of aileron or rudder will raise the wing. If the pilot panics and freezes, recovery is not possible. The only recovery is RELEASE the back pressure, move the nose effectively “down” reducing the angle of attack. Then and only then will the steep bank be reduced.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guillermo
    replied
    Hi everyone. I want to ask you all a question. I have done 4 flights with my new F4, and I have noticed that when turning right or left, it is quite abrupt and tends to keep turning, giving a strange and unpleasant sensation. Maybe you see it as normal, but for me, it is not. I have been in this hobby for 30 years, and this is my third EDF, and I have never noticed this behavior before. I have tried with less aileron travel, but I can't improve that response. Is this how it behaves? Is it an initial tendency to stall? The flights have been relatively calm to check the battery life, and I don't want to give it much speed for now...

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Full reverse on my 8 channel spectrum,, does nt slow as i thought,, considering no cheater hole.. 8 sbarely pushes back

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    Look at your monitor screen and see what the channels are doing. Narrow it to a radio or ESC issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Markopolo
    replied
    Guys I recently got the 8s f4 now with reverse, I have set it up ok with reverse set on channel 7 and assigned to a switch, the problem I’m having is when I go over 50% power on the ground in forward the reverse kicks in, I had to unplug the reverse to stop this happening, I have other planes setup the same way and they work fine, I’m using a frsky Horus x12, I have tried copying another model and using its setup but it’s still happening with the f4, has anyone else had this with their f4.
    regards

    Mark.

    Leave a comment:


  • e4dragongunner
    replied
    BTW... I need to do another one!
    Will do Jet Fan and 8 s this go!

    Leave a comment:


  • e4dragongunner
    replied
    Elbee
    Check your private messages! :-) Happy New Year sir

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Phantom Community,

    I need help.

    I have sorted through all my STL Files and I cannot find the OEM Freewing F-4D Phantom Cockpit STL files.

    These included both front and rear cockpits, ladders, seats, et cetera.

    I would be eternally grateful for a set of these OEM STL File sets.

    Thought I had these, but they're not in my files, so maybe not.

    At one point I believe these were posted to this Official Phantom thread.

    Any assist would be appreciated.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • junkersju52
    replied
    Thank you very much! :)

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    600 GALLON centerline fuel tank and pylon---- Updated to better scale and pylon mountAdded Hollow version


    junkersju52

    apmech1 designed and posted this 600 gallon tank version some years ago.

    I have printed and installed this on my Phreewing Phantom and it looks great.

    It is lightweight and connects using typical Freewing style ordnance mounts.

    You will need to find someone to print this for you if you do not have a 3D printer.

    There are services available and check out The RC Geek, he might have this tank or one similar in his product line.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • junkersju52
    replied
    Hey guys,

    I'm in the middle of the refinish (around 70hrs so far) and cant wait for the final result.

    Is there any company where I can order a centerline tank?

    Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Matt Mathias View Post
    Thank you very much LB
    Do you brush it on or use the spray cans?
    If brushed on do you use a "foam" brush?
    MM, I brush it on and have used foam brushes and fine hair artists brushes, either are fine, but you'll do a bit more surface sanding with a foam brush as the product foams a bit if over-stroke it too much.

    If you are going to use a primer before you use a spray can, then no problems as you'll be sanding the surface between those primer coats.

    I have used latex and brushed that on as my color coats.
    That works well, but sanding the finish is not necessarily a good thing, but as we all know, latex will cover myriad sin.

    Foam brush is fine for the MinWax with a little more sanding required.

    I've used 3 inch wide as that goes quickly for the first couple coats and use 2 or 1 inch for the smaller areas.

    You really cannot mess this part up and it just makes a world of difference with the model finish.

    Sanding, as always. is your friend once it has dried overnight.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Matt Mathias
    replied
    Thank you very much LB
    Do you brush it on or use the spray cans?
    If brushed on do you use a "foam" brush?

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Matt Mathias View Post
    Hello everyone, I recently received my 8S Marine phantom.... guys put water based poly on the whole jet before painting. Is that a good idea?.
    MM,

    Most here use some variant of a water-based clear acrylic like MinWax Polycrylic.

    I use the MinWax semi-gloss water-based clear acrylic and apply 3-4 coats on all outer surfaces including the battery cover inner surface where it meets the fuselage and hinge lines where accessible.

    You can sand between coats and you;ll start to see what difference this step makes to the foam surfaces removing the dings, gatoring and small scratches.

    The RC Geek has several great videos on his techniques for finishing foam using similar products.

    By doing this simple thing, the 'toughness' factor of the OEM foam finish is increased significantly, IMHO, and it provides a great base for primer or latex paints.

    One note, you should scuff it with 320 or higher wet or dry then wipe it clean with a tack rag or microfiber cloth before painting.

    This is how I approach the surface before color painting, everyone has their own methods, this works well for me.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Matt Mathias
    replied
    Hello everyone, I recently received my 8S Marine phantom, and will be painting it like my former unit when we flew F4J's. Our jets were white not this off gray/white. No biggie just an observation. I bought the 3d printed cockpit kit and I bought RCgeek's printed pilots busts. Since I'm a grade school painter at best I was wondering if anyone on here paints pilots or if anyone knows who does? I would like to pay someone who could do a good job. I read on this thread that some guys put water based poly on the whole jet before painting. Is that a good idea? Will that make the new paint adhere better? Thank you in advance for any comments or suggestions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Maverickpro
    replied
    Thank you LB, I was surprised how well it worked. Now need to test fly and see how it works in the air.
    thanks again...

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Maverickpro View Post
    Got the nose gear door figured out for the E conversion......
    MP, Nailed it. Great modification work-around, Sir. Nicely done. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Maverickpro
    replied
    Got the nose gear door figured out for the E conversion. Used brass tube and wire. Works great, now just need to paint the strut and install light.

    Leave a comment:

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