Originally posted by Airguardian
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Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread
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Awesome stuff as usual. I note you use the "drawing with pencil" method, i.e. you use both thumbs and index fingers for flying. A much more precision method where as I have always just flown with thumbs only, which could explain my hundreds of crashes over the decades lol! If I could go back in time, I would have learned using your method, with a neck strap. Now my muscle memory is so developed it's virtually fruitless to try to relearn the method. However, I would tell any newcomer to use your method when starting out, which understandably gives you much more precise control.
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Now, i have a setup with a 6S battery and around 3800 g RTF. Could someone tell me if i want to make the conversion to X45 Xicoy turbine what total weight do will have? I ask because i don t know what are all the accessories needed in this case. I also want to use the JL conversion kit. Thanks for your answers.
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F-22 Thrust Vectoring 3D printed plates with control horn for the elevator connection setup, NOT the 2 servo setup. (photo below)
I have looked high & low for the stl file or the person selling them. Steve Hodges and RC Jet Dude names keep coming up.
Any help appreciated.2 Photos
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Perfect! This is essentially what I had in my head too, and good to know on the 10g wire too.Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post
This is the only kind I use and make myself, straight from the ESC or if I need it to be separate, all ran on 12S with EC5 connectors and 10 gauge wire.
thank you much!
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Are you building your own connectors?Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post
Watch out using those series connectors, I had one fail on my Roban 700 Apache heli before a flight, I heard something pop and decided to investigate the issue, turns out it was the series connector, I will never use one again after seeing the soldering job on it, very very little solder if any and I'm running 12S, but even on 6S I wouldn't use one, I had two and destroyed both of them to see how they are made and no way would I ever use one again, I don't use any anti spark connectors on my 12S system in my HSD T-33 Jet or any of my 800 size scale helis, they are all 12S, only use EC5 connectors as well with not one issue so far, anti spark connectors are not always needed like Evan posted. I now make my own connectors.
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Watch out using those series connectors, I had one fail on my Roban 700 Apache heli before a flight, I heard something pop and decided to investigate the issue, turns out it was the series connector, I will never use one again after seeing the soldering job on it, very very little solder if any and I'm running 12S, but even on 6S I wouldn't use one, I had two and destroyed both of them to see how they are made and no way would I ever use one again, I don't use any anti spark connectors on my 12S system in my HSD T-33 Jet or any of my 800 size scale helis, they are all 12S, only use EC5 connectors as well with not one issue so far, anti spark connectors are not always needed like Evan posted. I now make my own connectors.Originally posted by Drewmb88 View Post
I have another series connector that I’m going to give it a try with. Hopefully a bad connector is the issue.
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I do have soldering equipment, and good points on doing a stress test on the adapter(s). Posted some pictures of the current culprit adapter.Originally posted by HangarQueen View PostWith the old adapter, just for testing, try if you can reproduce the problem by manipulating it, stressing it mechanically, and see if it happens again. Then you'll know for sure that it was the adapter.
Then I would try the same exercise with the new one, if just to see if it suffers from the same problem.
If you have the soldering equipment, or know someone who does, I would suggest to solder your own adapter. I've had adapters like that come apart in my hands, years ago. The solderings were extremely poor, and broke apart at the least mechanical force applied to it. I've soldered them myself ever since.
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With the old adapter, just for testing, try if you can reproduce the problem by manipulating it, stressing it mechanically, and see if it happens again. Then you'll know for sure that it was the adapter.
Then I would try the same exercise with the new one, if just to see if it suffers from the same problem.
If you have the soldering equipment, or know someone who does, I would suggest to solder your own adapter. I've had adapters like that come apart in my hands, years ago. The solderings were extremely poor, and broke apart at the least mechanical force applied to it. I've soldered them myself ever since.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostNo. First there are many ESCs that have built in anti spark so you don't need an additional one. Also many jets like this one have a built in anti spark external to the ESC. Additionally, "must" as you used is deceiving, you simply do not have to use one. Does it reduce or eliminate the spark in high voltage systems and reduce the wear on connects, yes it usually does, but it is not mandatory by any means. Also, 6S is the grey area where it's not as helpful as on 8, 10, 12 or more.
But all that said I'm not sure that was Drews issue. As Hanger Queen pointed out I think the issue is something else, a bad series connector, mismatched sizes of connectors, a bad solder or crimp joint, something else...
I have another series connector that I’m going to give it a try with. Hopefully a bad connector is the issue.
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So the spark occurred after plugging the series connector into the jet with both batteries already connected to the series connector.Originally posted by HangarQueen View PostCorrect me if I understood you incorrectly: the arcing happened when the model was already powered on?
In that case, I would not trust that series adapter anymore. It would mean that somehow the contact was open circuit for a moment, than closed again, causing an arcing.
If the arcing happened while connecting the battery, that would be normal if you haven't used so-called anti-spark connectors.
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No. First there are many ESCs that have built in anti spark so you don't need an additional one. Also many jets like this one have a built in anti spark external to the ESC. Additionally, "must" as you used is deceiving, you simply do not have to use one. Does it reduce or eliminate the spark in high voltage systems and reduce the wear on connects, yes it usually does, but it is not mandatory by any means. Also, 6S is the grey area where it's not as helpful as on 8, 10, 12 or more.
But all that said I'm not sure that was Drews issue. As Hanger Queen pointed out I think the issue is something else, a bad series connector, mismatched sizes of connectors, a bad solder or crimp joint, something else...
Originally posted by Oachidori View Post
Exactly! for 6 or 8 s always must use an anti spark connectors!!
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Exactly! for 6 or 8 s always must use an anti spark connectors!!Originally posted by HangarQueen View PostCorrect me if I understood you incorrectly: the arcing happened when the model was already powered on?
In that case, I would not trust that series adapter anymore. It would mean that somehow the contact was open circuit for a moment, than closed again, causing an arcing.
If the arcing happened while connecting the battery, that would be normal if you haven't used so-called anti-spark connectors.
Leave a comment:
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Correct me if I understood you incorrectly: the arcing happened when the model was already powered on?
In that case, I would not trust that series adapter anymore. It would mean that somehow the contact was open circuit for a moment, than closed again, causing an arcing.
If the arcing happened while connecting the battery, that would be normal if you haven't used so-called anti-spark connectors.
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Odd experience today. My benchmark series adapter seemed to arc on me below the shrink wrap. Running admiral 6s 5000 50c, along with an admiral 2s 5000 60c. Any insight?
The arc only happened after plugging into the aircraft.
thank you
Drew
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