Of course a jet like this is not meant to be a speed demon, but the F-18 is pretty fast, and it doesn't like to land slow, so your review has me confused.
So, you are running the stock "high performance" 6S 1900kv EDF, correct?
It should be running a 9 blade EDF, not a 12 blade one so check that out, did you make a mistake or are you running the wrong rotor?
What timing have you set up on the ESC?
Define 'top tier battery' (brand and model, number of cycles and battery age).
Also, what altitude are you flying at?
What sort of runway do you operate from?
By any chance, has your rotor been damaged by from ingesting gravel or grass?
Are you sure you are talking about the Freewing F-18?
If so, I don't see what do you mean by 'flaps centering' since the flaps can only deflect down, so there is not much tuning to be done with them.
And unrelated, but I think speed is the least interesting parameter by which to judge a foam EDF.
Personally, I think hunting for speed is kinda pointless and boring, but to each their own... if that's what you enjoy, then, nothing to say!
( :
Havent flown jet since last post. I installed a jet fan 90mm edf with het 700 68 2100kv motor, using thunder power 6s 5000mah rampage batteries 10 cycles and imho the best battery made for rc air. THis jet just sucks bottom line. Never had a jet so lethargic and booring. I just put it up for sale on craigslist. I had the original freeewing 90mm f18 v2 with thrust vectoring and that jet just smoked this one in every which way. I dont see what people see in this jet.
Check out this thread Battery Load Test Comparisons about 6sLiPos. Read especially the first page as that is where it is all broken down and regularly kept up.
You'll never go back to TP or no name batteries. I use SMC and like them a lot.
Bad comparison between the older F/A-18E and newer F/A-18C. That started out as a very light 3500mAh aerobat. The newer plane is far from that and a speedy, smooth, swoopy type plane, but heavier and with more power. The new one really is a great package and you have probably forgotten all the issued with the older V1 and V2, weak retracts, weak retract mounting, poor front retract door set up, poor steering setup. Foam, while it breaks cleanly, was easy to break. No rudders but yaw TV. The V1 had really bad horizontal stab mounting (most and 70mm jets now have much better ball links, linkage rods, pivot rods and mounting), the V2 was better but still not very good. The V1 wings glued on, V2 wing mounts were not very strong. The red pinstripes came pre peeled off out of the box...
Oh, and yes batteries. If you are going to be doing a set up where you are pulling 120A+ even if only using full throttle sparsely you better have good ones.
Check out this thread Battery Load Test Comparisons about 6sLiPos. Read especially the first page as that is where it is all broken down and regularly kept up.
You'll never go back to TP or no name batteries. I use SMC and like them a lot.
Thunder Power and Hyperion. They may have been the so called premiere LiPos 10 years ago. Today, they don't even bother to test them or they fail in tests. In fact, they started to perform miserably over 5 years ago. So called "no name" brands of LiPos have become better and better, far better than TP.
TP = toilet paper.
My friends, after 3 years.... at last i was able to try my F-18 on the runway, and even thought all the preflight check are OK, once i start rolling down the runways i get a mix between rudder and elevetor that i have not program.... and it only acts when the plane has speed. What i have seen it´s that it is directly proportional to the speed.To my it makes no sence.... Any ideas?
Thanks
My friends, after 3 years.... at last i was able to try my F-18 on the runway, and even thought all the preflight check are OK, once i start rolling down the runways i get a mix between rudder and elevetor that i have not program.... and it only acts when the plane has speed. What i have seen it´s that it is directly proportional to the speed.To my it makes no sence.... Any ideas?
Thanks
You're going to need to give more details if anyone is going to have a chance at guessing what might be going on here. First, have you been flying this plane the past 3 years but not on a runway? What kind of surface have you been flying it on, if you've flown it at all? Are you saying you built this plane and then just left it alone for 3 years? Tell us a little about how you set it up? What kind of TX and RX are you using? Any gyros?
"A mix between rudder and elevator" ......................... What does this mean? UP or DOWN elevator? Left or right rudder? What does the plane do? How much speed are you talking about? Is the plane still on the ground or has it just lifted off? Aileron is perfectly level? So many things can make your plane do what it does, if we even understand what it does.
Actually, i´ve never fly it, i got it 3 years ago, got cancer and together with the pandemic.... no chance of flying it till now. To answer your questions:
Yes y have Gyro install A3-LV2 Hobbyeagle
no mix between elevator and rudder
Tx and RX (TY ai 10b) are Turnigy
If i correct right elevator go down, i even detected some movement on the ailerons too.
I am thinking on unpluging everything and start from scratch, first try without the gyro and then with it.
Do what Evan says. It would seem to me that you have tried to set this plane up for "tailerons", since if the elevators are Y'd together (via the control box), BOTH should respond in the same direction. I would also suggest that you have not declared the proper wing type in your TX or in the gyro. Furthermore, the HobbyEagle A3 can't work for tailerons. The fact that speed is involved tells me something is not right with the gain settings. You need to figure out how the A3 works, what it can and can't do and why it does what it does and how to test it before trying to fly the plane. Take out the gyro and wire everything back up the "stock" way and operate it as a 6-channel plane just to make sure everything works as it should. You don't have to fly it, just to test it. You need to declare it as "1 AIL, 1 flap, normal tail". If it works that way, that should tell you lots about the way you tried to make it work.
OHHHHhHH F**K!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...... ;((. Bloody Hell that sucks J looked like one of crashes! Damage looked same as my ocean dump on fusi exactly, easy fix for you brotha!
Thunder Power and Hyperion. They may have been the so called premiere LiPos 10 years ago. Today, they don't even bother to test them or they fail in tests. In fact, they started to perform miserably over 5 years ago. So called "no name" brands of LiPos have become better and better, far better than TP.
TP = toilet paper.
not on 12s 700 size rc helis throwing smack 3d down. The rampage are the best and they are one of the lightest packs out. Ive tried them all and theres a few brands I would trust on my 5k chopper. I will try some smc on my planes first cause they are cheap in price and then I will decide which has better power.
OHHHHhHH F**K!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...... ;((. Bloody Hell that sucks J looked like one of crashes! Damage looked same as my ocean dump on fusi exactly, easy fix for you brotha!
Thanks Tube!
Haven't started yet with the process :'(
Fellow Freewing F/A-18C fans!.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works is excited to announce the acquisition of a Hornet to their growing fleet of superb Motion aircraft.
Come on big box with the blue tape!.
Fellow Freewing F/A-18C fans!.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works is excited to announce the acquisition of a Hornet to their growing fleet of superb Motion aircraft.
Come on big box with the blue tape!.
SD, Yeppers, this is truly a day to Celebrate... Looking forward to watching your progress. Don't forget to take pix and post those Best, LB
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
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