Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[Carlbrainiac]

Also what if any kind of surface prep am I going to need to do before painting? Light sanding with wet and dry to give the surface a key. And or any primer?

[Carlbrainiac]

Isopropyl alcohol to clean off any mold release agent?

[apmech1]

I've shied away from rattle cans because I used one and it completely ate the foam I was testing on, it was acrylic. The person at the hobbyshop said not to spray directly on foam because of the propellant is what ate the foam. So the airbrush method was the route for me. I have seen many achieve great results with rattle cans.

[Carlbrainiac]

Thinking about it would isopropyl alcohol remove the grey paint on the model?

[Alpha]

Thinking about it would isopropyl alcohol remove the grey paint on the model?

You'd need to use something stronger like acetone to remove the factory paint. isopropyl alcohol alone in moderate quantities won't break the factory paint. In fact some of us do a quick wipe down of the model out of the box with a rag and isopropyl alcohol before painting as part of the prep stage. I don't, but others do and I'd consider it safe if it's a simple wipe down. As usual don't soak anything unnecessarily in an alcohol bath.

Note, I must clarify that not all models are painted with the same type of paint. So as always, test any solvent or chemical on an inconspicuous area first.

[Evan D]

Rattle can

[fhhuber]

I've shied away from rattle cans because I used one and it completely ate the foam I was testing on, it was acrylic. The person at the hobbyshop said not to spray directly on foam because of the propellant is what ate the foam. So the airbrush method was the route for me. I have seen many achieve great results with rattle cans.

Depends on the kind of foam...

EPO is resistant to almost every paint you can come up with.

EPS will be damaged by most spray paints.

Shave a small bit of foam from the bottom of the canopy r hatch or some other inconspicuous location and apply the paint you are thinking f using. If the foam survives, then you can use that paint on that model..... usually. Hobby King put out some models with EPO fuselage and wings but EPS tail-planes. Other strange combinations might be out there.

[Aros]

The key is light light LIGHT dusting coats initially. Set up that base layer. Once that is established you can pretty much go nuts.

[Carlbrainiac]

So no need for a light sanding before paint. And no need for primer base coat before painting. Just gentle wipe down with isopropyl alcohol? I'm thinking of getting some medical isopropyl alcohol wipes rather than a bottle and rag that way less likely to over do it.

[Aros]

I have never once sanded or primed my foam models. Just wipe it down so there's no dust/residue, and that's it. Here's a great example. I painted my FMS 1400 Pitts which was white, this...

[Carlbrainiac]

Ok great thanks.

And do you guys think I'm making the right choice going with Matte paint and matte clear? I thought it would look more scale this way. Or should I do matte black paint and then a gloss clear so it doesnt dull the luster of the decals from callie?

[apmech1]

The nice thing about adding a clear coat is that it makes the decals have the same sheen as the plane. It makes the decals look lie they are painted on.

[MikeT]

Doesn't the clear coat yellow after time?

Mike

[xviper]

The key is light light LIGHT dusting coats initially. Set up that base layer. Once that is established you can pretty much go nuts.

Agreed! I've painted EPP and foamboard with rattle cans of water based enamel. Like you say, when the foam is new and if bare, gotta keep the nozzle at least 15" to 18" away and do several light coats first. I've been in a rush and on some parts of those planes, I've laid on thick coats right away and from close up and YUP, it melts the foam or lifts the paper on the foamboard and melted the foam underneath. On the parts where I did light coats from a distance, turned out just fine.

[killickb]

Wolfgang, thanks for the #5 pilot credentials.

[MANFRED]

Doesn't the clear coat yellow after time?

Mike

Man you are optimistic about how long your foamy will survive. You will have crashed, sold or be just plain tired of it before it yellows if you use the right finish.

[Pete Lane]

Polyurethane will.

Polycrylic won't.

[crxmanpat]

Polycrylic is the way to go. Or, do like me and use Testors Dullcote (for military camo schemes), or Glosscote for a nice shine. Sprays on well and really makes a difference. I get mine from Hobby Lobby, but most hobby shops or even Michael's carry it too.

[T-CAT]

It's almostttttttt here. Woohoo! Hopefully it's just a few more weeks away.

On a sad note, flight is not currently permitted at my local RC flying field. This could be permanent or could change for the better in the future, but it's uncertain at this point.

Regardless of the outcome, I'll eventually find a suitable location to fly this new F/A-18C, as well as the other aircraft I love to fly.

[crxmanpat]

T-CAT, sorry to hear than man. Is that the Fields of Dreams site? How far is Apollo from you?