-
-
Since we are discussing A-10 apparel, I ordered one of these to go with my plane;-)
Comment
-
I've got a receiver issue can't seem to figure out. Running an AR636 with a TM1000 telemetry module and a DX6. All seems to work fine, except I have a Y-harness in the "data/bind" port which I have the telemetry module and the UBEC plugged into (only open port left...lol).. The issue I am having, the read out on my transmitter for the telemetry fluctuates rapidly and doesn't stay "locked" in. Could this be due to the UBEC being wired in on the same receiver port? Will there be a risk of brown outs having a shared receiver port for the UBEC? Would not enjoy getting this thing up in the air only to have some sort of receiver/UBEC failure.Comment
-
Anyone have a good set of AS3X settings to use? I am setting mine up on an AR9350 and have a basic setup in place but was wondering if anyone has had the chance to get this 'Hog in the air and iron out some solid settings that work well.
My current setup is as follows - Have not flown it yet using these settings:
Wing Type in Transmitter and in AS3X Programming is set to One Aileron, One Flap and Normal Tail
See PhotosComment
-
Finishing assembly in the shop, and never having seen this plane in the light yet, and also having never touched a model of anything built after 1950 before last fall, I was embarrassed to discover that the stock paint job actually is a subtle camouflage job in lighter glossier and darker flatter tones of grey. I was staring at a wing and noted the area of darker color near the root, and first thought "oh crap, they missed painting part of the wing". Then I noted a matching pattern on the fuse, and realized my ignorance. :wacky
T-Cat, I believe you said you are using Turnigy Graphene 5000s in your hog; could you post photos of exactly how you position them in the fuse, and the bottom of your cockpit section showing the adaptations? Thanks!Comment
-
I sure can. The LiPo's in the picture are the Turnigy 6S 5000mah 65C. Keep in mind though that I have heavier power systems installed (the Freewing 80mm EDF 12-blade with 1820kv motors), so I had to ensure these had to be moved forward enough to balance. With the stock lighter system, you may need to see how much further aft to achieve proper CG. I also have an aftermarket pilot installed, and chopped quite a bit of the foam away from the center section of the canopy, but you will see how much is needed (if at all) with your install. The bottom LiPo is has hook and loop (Velcro) secured to it and the plywood floor for added security since they are heavy batteries. I also added two more screws in the center section plywood (one screw on each side) also for added security. The top LiPo sits on top of the other with a small rectangular cut piece of kitchen cabinet mesh non-slip material, and the velcro used (to ensure it was long enough) is the One-Wrap long roll cut to proper length and width with plenty of extra (much more than needed) just so I can easily grab onto it secure it properly. I didn't like the 3/4" width Velcro roll, so purchased the 1.5" and just trimmed a little width off it to fit perfectly in the oremade velcro strap slits on the plywood battery floor. The link to the velcro is below. I found the velcro at my local Home Depot.
Attached FilesComment
-
-
Here's the start of my A-10. I will also be doing the Alaska aggressor paint on it as well
AshleyComment
-
-
Hi Rick, someone forwarded your message to me. Those don't look nice, I sincerely apologize and I've already forwarded it to the factory and will speak with their QC team in person on Monday.
To answer your question, the fins are thin plastic, so I would recommend just bending them in the opposite direction to coax them back into their original shape before they were bent like that somehow. Applying heat shouldn't be necessary, but if you do, apply only a little at a time and take precaution that the heat doesn't flow over onto the adjacent foam too much. A wet paper towel with the fin popping through it should do the trick.
I hope this is helpful and the process doesn't erode your enjoyment of the aircraft as a whole.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.MakesComment
-
The fins on both of my A-10s missiles were like that. I believe i posted pics of the ones in the first kit.
I ran hot water on mine and bent opposite direction and then while holding it straight I dunked it in a big bowl of cold water with a little ice in it...
This worked well for me...Comment
-
These guys do shirts also. I've used them in the past. Pretty good quality but pricey
Mike
\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"Comment
-
When are one of you guys with the mad skills going to do the N/AW version? Someone has to be giving it some thought.Comment
-
Only 4719 Dzus fasteners to go...
And a pint of Tequila...Comment
-
This might have something to do with it. The AR636 in itself, has some telemetry features so the TM1000 is providing a second telemetry signal. The two may be conflicting with each other. I've found that the built in telemetry is good for short range and other telemetry generally takes over when further away. How far? Depends on the telemetry unit and how the units are orientated. Also not a bad idea to "Y" it in some other port. I doubt it has anything to do with this issue and I doubt it will cause a brown out.Comment
-
I can't help you with settings suggestions. Each plane will act differently to the same settings. First, it might be better to keep your rates and expo in the TX and dial those in the RX to zero. To keep it simple and not risk some sort of weird cross talk, do what you normally do via the TX. IE, your wing type should be done on the TX and not duplicated on the 636. If you have it set in both, your are basically sending a signal (already altered) to the RX and then the RX tries to "re-program" that same signal again.
In your application, you are basically using the 636 for it's gyro features. I suggest you start off doing only those and keep everything else out of the equation for now.
Your rate gain is a good starting point (normally conservative) but I would also suggest putting in some head gain (also very conservative). I use the 636A from a Radian XL in another "conventional" plane and messing around with rate and head gain, that plane is extremely stable and quite resistant to wind buffeting. It also locks back in after a roll or loop. Landing is more stable and controlled.
Eflite (and Spektrum) use the 636A in specialty planes like the XL, Opterra, Rare Bear, where they want everything dialed in right out of the box so the end user can just bind it and go. The XL was programmed to glide really well and hand launch almost hands off. The Opterra has programming to help it "launch"(uses extremely sensitive gyro and some UP ELE programmed in). The Rare Bear for speed. You see what I'm getting at. Programming the 636 for an unrelated plane can be complicated and tedious and the outcome of settings can be unpredictable. If you are using a 636 out of an Eflite plane, you must be careful of any hidden programming that the end user cannot access or get rid of.Comment
-
Ive had about 12 flights now on concrete, prefect landings. Despite this, my front gear is very loose. The retract is still mounted firmly is like somethings up with the trunion? I haven't taken it out yet but is this a common problem or something with mine?
Edit: Found some information, motion says this slop is fine, but my jet is becoming harder to steer, its getting loser. Ill have a look at the strut grub screws. Its sad because my landing have been very good and it seems the gear doesn't like side movement like when taxing which is where I suspect the issue is coming from.Comment
Comment