Rex, great question. What works for me is filler, sand, primer if I m doing a larger area and for the seams, dings, screw heads, I fill, sand until I like it, then coat with Miniwax Polycrylic Clear. After that dries completely, I sand, prime and paint as usual. A note, I cover the entire airframe with 3-4 coats of Minwax Polycrylic after sanding out the production seams, vent marks, etc. Though I do entire repaints on all my models. Best, Steve
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I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Elbee,
Do you put any barrier between the screws ( tissue,wad of paper) and filler in case you need to remove at a later date? Thinking this thru before I modify. RexComment
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Yeppers, I use a brass tube to cut a similar sized 'core' from the shipping box foam, slice it off flush, fill in lf req'd, and prime/paint from there. Great question, btw. Best, LBOriginally posted by jetfool View PostI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Thanks Elbee. I should have thought of that. I use sharpen brass tubes on my balsa planes. Duh!
RexComment
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I think I am ready for Christmas morning. I have paints, cleaned off the worktable, rec. ready to install. I finished my cockpit kit, and it is ready to be installed. (Enclosed photo's) Feeling like a kid at Christmas again.
Being a short time member on this forum, I just want to say I have gained a lot of knowledge from all of your posts and want to thank you all.
Merry Christmas, Rex
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Lookin' Good, Rex!!Originally posted by jetfool View PostI think I am ready for Christmas morning. I have paints, cleaned off the worktable, rec. ready to install. I finished my cockpit kit, and it is ready to be installed. (Enclosed photo's) Feeling like a kid at Christmas again.
Being a short time member on this forum, I just want to say I have gained a lot of knowledge from all of your posts and want to thank you all.
Merry Christmas, Rex
davegeeComment
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Thanks Davegee, Need to order the inst. graphics from Callie but will wait til I see my Corsair in person. Planning on doing Ken Walsh's but also like the Marines Dream version also.
RexComment
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Very cool. I have done a couple of models in a version of what Lt. Robert "Killer Bob" Hanson flew in the Solomon Islands in late 1943-early '44. He was the top scoring ace in the Corsair aircraft with 25 kills.Originally posted by jetfool View Post
I think you will really like flying your plane when you get done with it. It takes some care to fly it correctly and safely, especially for landings, but you'll get it down. Attached is my plane taken earlier this year when it was warm. Pretty much in storage until the spring now.
Cheers
Davegee
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Beautiful airplane. Just the right weathering. Dave Platt told me a little bit goes a long way and makes the whole thing popComment
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DG, aaah, when it was warm, just reminiscing....Your Corsair is a beauty, never gets old seeing her.Originally posted by davegee View Post
Merry Christmas, Dave and Happy New Year to you and yours. Steve
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Christmas was very good to me this year. Finally got to open my Birdcage Corsair and boy is it a beauty.. Everything you all have said it was. I noticed the landing gear has metal plates over the mounting area, is this an upgrade to strengthen this area or standard assembly? I also received some extra parts and accessories and turned some new wheel bushings in the lathe for the robart wheels. Now on to the start of making this bird look used. Merry Christmas too all. RexComment
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jetfool, Looks like you jumped right into the build. The metal plate on the retract is fairly standard.
I had forgotten about needing to make a bushing for the Robart hubs, but looks like you handled that easily enough.
Congrats Rex, looking forward to watching your build.
Best as always, LB
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Brethren of the Bent-Wing, quick update on the 3DP printed pilot for my Corsair.
Goggle glass took 3 refinishes before it looked decent, so pilot is finished with the exception of seat harness.
Will do a last weather wash to flatten the sheen after scuffs, etc.
Final install next, then paint and install tail wheel assembly and onto fuselage graphics.
Happy New Year, Y'all.
Best to you and yours, LB
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Fabulous, LB! You hit it out of the park, again! I'm thinking of having a USAAF pilot printed up for my latest plane, possibly remove and replace the other goofy ones that came with the kits!Originally posted by Elbee View PostBrethren of the Bent-Wing, quick update on the 3DP printed pilot for my Corsair.
Goggle glass took 3 refinishes before it looked decent, so pilot is finished with the exception of seat harness.
Will do a last weather wash to flatten the sheen after scuffs, etc.
Final install next, then paint and install tail wheel assembly and onto fuselage graphics.
Happy New Year, Y'all. Best to you and yours, LB
Cheers
davegeeComment
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Elbee,
The pilot looks like he has the confidence to fly this bird. Job well done.
Happy New Year, RexComment
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davegee the 3DP printed pilots and parts that are filament printed show layer lines, but are still in most ways better looking than most of the OEM pilots.
The 'trick' thing is resin printing the 3DP pilot which virtually eliminates layer lines.
I did not do much post print processing other than wash and prime.
Layer lines are visible, but so be it for now. Possibly a resin printer in my future, we'll see.
One note: I use a 0.25mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.7mm or 0.5mm. The prints take longer, but it is worth it.
Resin printing can do layer heights at 0,1mm, but at 40 feet and 70 mph who can tell?
Thanks for the kind words, Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Last post for the night. Just formed some 3/8" dia. alum. eyelets for the gun tubes. I think it looks better than stock. When painted should pass inspection. Easy to form with needle nose and small flat pliers. Rex
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Good headwork, Rex. I like it!Originally posted by jetfool View PostLast post for the night. Just formed some 3/8" dia. alum. eyelets for the gun tubes. I think it looks better than stock. When painted should pass inspection. Easy to form with needle nose and small flat pliers. Rex
davegeeComment
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Rex, nicely done. The aluminum looks really good and finishes off the openings perfectly. theoldALFER had used a similar method but in brass. The aluminum has to be easier to form/shape than the brass I would think. Bravo Zulu, Sir. Best, LBOriginally posted by jetfool View PostLast post for the night. Just formed some 3/8" dia. alum. eyelets for the gun tubes. I think it looks better than stock. When painted should pass inspection. Easy to form with needle nose and small flat pliers. Rex
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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