Originally posted by sfmadmax
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Sorry to hear that Mr. Smoothie, and if it's any consolation (which I know it's not), been there, done that and I'm sure we're not the only ones. Did it with my first Corsair, the flying FMS Brick 1400mm. Got tired of coming in a little too hot, making what I thought was a spot on 2 wheel landing, and having the thing decide to take an immediate left (maybe the pilot saw a naked cheerleader on the side of the runway), and proceeding to nose over in the grass and damage not only the prop but the rudder (not to mention my ego). Then tried a slow, full flap landing (at 1/4 throttle no less for that dog), and she stalled about 2 feet up and dropped straight down on the retracts, with virtually the same result as yours.Originally posted by MrSmoothie View PostSo, since it's my birthday and the weather was perfect, I decided to skip the office and take my Corsair out for some fun. First flight was beautiful and I let my flying buddy take the controls for a few minutes. Time to land, I made an absolutely perfect full-flaps landing -- perfect, that is, except for the fact that I "landed" three feet above the ground. The stall was a thing of beauty -- it just dropped evenly, pancaking into the ground. Both retracts folded back. To our amazement, the airframe is virtually undamaged -- just a few scuffs to touch up, but nothing broken or cracked. Both retracts are fractured and will be replaced. Two of three prop blades broken, and one of the four gear doors snapped in half.
Unfortunately the retracts (w/o struts) are out of stock, so I had to order complete units (about twice the cost).
The bad news: The motor was very loose, and I feared the plastic mount was broken. Upon taking it all apart, I found that the plastic mount was fine. The 4mm aluminum motor X-mount, however, was fractured badly at all four motor screw positions and bent out of shape! Those motor screws were a royal pain to remove, even with application of heat to loosen the thread lock.
The more bad news: The X-mount is out of stock at MRC! I took a chance and ordered the last-in-stock X-mount for the 1600mm Spitfire, but it has a different part number and must be different somehow.
By any chance does anybody have a spare FlightLine 1600mm F4U-1A/D Corsair Motor X Mount SKU: MO1505522 they are willing to part with? It may be that that Motion has not yet gotten any of these in stock, being a new part.
I may not be getting any better at landing, but I'm sure getting great practice at repairing.:Smoking::corsairHugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge
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Hey MSOriginally posted by MrSmoothie View Post
I'm baring my soul for you guys who haven't flown your's yet in hopes that you will catch any problems before you attempt your maiden -- this is way too nice (and expensive) of a model to crash over something stupid.
ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!!!
Sorry to read about your Corsair..... Happy Bday
The parts you needed were in stock a few weeks ago, so they will most likely get some more in stock soon. Hope you are able to get everything you need soon
edit: the Spitfire motor assembly has all the parts you need less the F4U screws... lot more cost but this would get you going again faster
Rich
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Thanks O-T for that useful aluminum info -- I will look into this -- it had crossed my mind to try and make a new mount, but know nothing about the various grades. The original mount is in small pieces -- both from the original damage and me pulling off the remnants to gain access to the screws, but it wouldn't e any problem to draft a new pattern. I'm telling you, Flightline used some serious thread lock here, which barely responded to soldering iron heat. Next time I'll use a small propane flame right on the screw head.Man, I’m sorry to hear that. I’d recommend flattening out the old motor mount and use it as a pattern. This is SOP for full size aircraft repair.
The stock motor mounts are typically .120 thousands, 2024 “O” aluminum, the softest variety out there as it’s not heat treated.
It’s also easy to work and will deform and fail as your’s did without breaking the airframe.
I’d recommend trying to get some sheet “O” aluminum and just fab your own if the Spitfire mount will not fit or can’t be modified.
2024-T3 or T6 is hardened and is what aircraft skin and parts is fabricated from. Should you use that, the plastic part molded into the fuselage will fail instead as the mount will not give under load.
Or...
Fabricate one from model aircraft grade plywood. That will indeed work to.
Or...
Tell your Dad an AD note was issued on his motor mount and will take a month of NDI work to verify it’s integrity, with extensive testing in your airframe.
I also think you're right that I could make one out of good quality ply, and it wouldn't even need to be "X" shaped. That may be the most expedient way to go, and I could always replace it when the factory part shows up at MRC.
Haha -- I am "proud" to have a reputation in my club for doing really good, nearly invisible repairs -- unfortunately this is in direct proportion to, and the result of, my "stupid pilot tricks." I know guys that have the same model for years and nary a scratch--I strive to be "that guy"!I may not be getting any better at landing, but I'm sure getting great practice at repairing.
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I ordered the very last in-stock Spitfire X-mount yesterday in hopes it would work with the different F4U motor. However it (the Spit X-mount) has a different part number, so I'm not holding my breath. I see there are a couple of Corsair motors still in stock, and I have to think they come with the X-mount, so I guess that would be the quick fix. I'm not adverse to "throwing money" at a solution and have done it more times than I like to admit. But I can't get too excited about buying a $55 motor to get the $3.50 mount...The parts you needed were in stock a few weeks ago, so they will most likely get some more in stock soon. Hope you are able to get everything you need soon
edit: the Spitfire motor assembly has all the parts you need less the F4U screws... lot more cost but this would get you going again faster
https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...rushless-motor
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Originally posted by MrSmoothie View Post
Thanks O-T for that useful aluminum info -- I will look into this -- it had crossed my mind to try and make a new mount, but know nothing about the various grades. The original mount is in small pieces -- both from the original damage and me pulling off the remnants to gain access to the screws, but it wouldn't e any problem to draft a new pattern. I'm telling you, Flightline used some serious thread lock here, which barely responded to soldering iron heat. Next time I'll use a small propane flame right on the screw head.
I also think you're right that I could make one out of good quality ply, and it wouldn't even need to be "X" shaped. That may be the most expedient way to go, and I could always replace it when the factory part shows up at MRC.
Haha -- I am "proud" to have a reputation in my club for doing really good, nearly invisible repairs -- unfortunately this is in direct proportion to, and the result of, my "stupid pilot tricks." I know guys that have the same model for years and nary a scratch--I strive to be "that guy"!
The X shape provides cooling airflow through the motor so while you can make it less like an X, just be sure you don’t block airflow through the nose.
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Agreed and glad you were able to get the last X mount. The Spitfire and Corsair uses the same motor and the mount visually looks the same. The part numbers are different because the mounting screws are not the same.Originally posted by MrSmoothie View Post
I ordered the very last in-stock Spitfire X-mount yesterday in hopes it would work with the different F4U motor. However it (the Spit X-mount) has a different part number, so I'm not holding my breath. I see there are a couple of Corsair motors still in stock, and I have to think they come with the X-mount, so I guess that would be the quick fix. I'm not adverse to "throwing money" at a solution and have done it more times than I like to admit. But I can't get too excited about buying a $55 motor to get the $3.50 mount...
Keep us posted
Rich
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You got walk in freezers, don't ya? I once glued a sweaty hand on a metal shelf in a walk in freezer once. In your case, you'd be left with "double skin" on one finger and none on the other. Big OWIE!Originally posted by theoldALFER View Post
Nah... don’t get that cold down here in SW Florida ;)
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No, you don't have to use the box but it sure makes it easy. You will need at least four Y connectors and a 7 channel receiver or a 12 channel receiver if you want to put every servo on it's on channel. You will also need to program your radio to operate the gear doors in sequence with the gear.Originally posted by TonyGagJr View PostDo we have to use the blue box on the Corsair? On my other FLRC planes I remove them, don’t really trust them.
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I've read where it's better to trust the blue box than rely on a bunch of "Y" connectors but hey - that's just me. :Cool:Originally posted by Beeg View Post
No, you don't have to use the box but it sure makes it easy. You will need at least four Y connectors and a 7 channel receiver or a 12 channel receiver if you want to put every servo on it's on channel. You will also need to program your radio to operate the gear doors in sequence with the gear.
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Originally posted by Grover54 View Post
I've read where it's better to trust the blue box than rely on a bunch of "Y" connectors but hey - that's just me. :Cool:
The Blue BOX is a set of software instructions on a chip ( SOC ) or integrated circuit. it's not going to break unless you poke/prod at it with forceps. Sure an electronic component can possibly fail, however with the tech these days, it's usually unlikely.
I would rather "trust" the blue box than a harness of Y connectors that can possibly become undone. The likely hood of the Y connectors becoming undone mid flight??? (Probably the same as an electronic component on the blue box failing)
It probably comes down to, preference at that point, IMO the blue box wins, since as a previous poster says, i knocks down your radio requirement from 12 -> 6 channels.
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Good Luck Sir, I am counting the days until the good weather hits so I can get mine airborne, Every night before bed I power mine up and do a pre-flight check.. LOL.... :)Originally posted by Grover54 View PostHere in the Northwest (Seattle Area) we've been having a very strange light appear in the sky the last several days so the weekend looks great for my Maiden. Excited to say the least so I'll post pictures unless a trash bag is involved! LOLLOLLOL
Post some pics!
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