Originally posted by Rosytime
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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread
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Originally posted by Rosytime View PostI forgot to add, I too had to trim the pilots legs to get them to fit all the way in. And as far as the X Wave retracts from Motion, I talked with them today and was told that they hadn't even been loaded into a container yet and no date for shipment yet. I decided to go with the E-Flite retracts.
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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I just got the nose wheel retract today and installed it. The retract unit winds up inside the fuselage on top of some rails I epoxied to the mounting area. This raised up the unit to make the wheel go up in the wheel well like the previous retract. My wheel still sticks out a bit but I'm not worried about it. I'm not looking for a perfect scale look. Like Mike T said, when the X Wave retracts come out and if they give a better look, I'll get them. I will say that I had to open the hole up to 5mm for the steering shaft. Make sure that you have a steering shaft for this unit since it doesn't come with one. The shaft will have a peened end that makes it look like a T. This allows the shaft to turn in the trunnion block. I also got my prop adapters mounted and wound up spacing the motors out enough so the spinner doesn't hit the cowl. It's getting closer to flying. Hope to maiden it next weekend.
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Here's a dumb question. What is the purpose of the spring that comes attached to the nose strut? Is it to keep the strut in the trunnion lock in place of the C-clip keeper shown in the photo? Or is it to limit/stabilize the steering travel? Both? Cause if its to act as a keeper for the strut, one wouldn't need a nose gear retract. A main gear retract would work just as well. Just one of those things that make me go Hmmmmmm. I'm gonna bite the bullet and make the mounting rails to use this nose gear retract like the rest of you guys. I'm also gonna try to make this steering arm work with a servo mounted in the wheel well. We'll see.
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Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
Here's a dumb question. What is the purpose of the spring that comes attached to the nose strut? Is it to keep the strut in the trunnion lock in place of the C-clip keeper shown in the photo? Or is it to limit/stabilize the steering travel? Both? Cause if its to act as a keeper for the strut, one wouldn't need a nose gear retract. A main gear retract would work just as well. Just one of those things that make me go Hmmmmmm. I'm gonna bite the bullet and make the mounting rails to use this nose gear retract like the rest of you guys. I'm also gonna try to make this steering arm work with a servo mounted in the wheel well. We'll see.
No dumb questions in this forum allowed, ALL questions are knowledge request
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Originally posted by wrangler1 View Post
I'm also waiting for the SBUS TO PPM converter that i ordered 3 weeks ago !!!!.
Is there other way that you know that i can do it 🤔 ?
So just thinking of this i think the cabling will be as this
From the fuse to each wing
2x Sbus(4 srv on left, 3 srv on right)
2x ESC1, ESC2
2x Retract(LH/RH)
2x Battery
2x Lights
2x LG doors(optional) Like to do mechanical actuation if i can work it out.
I could use the ED multiconnectors(3 servo) to pick up the ESC, Retr and lights so that will give THREE total connections(per side) when installing the wings
I think thats enough and may have little room left even using Sbus
On another note, im recovering the wing tops with white monokote and the craftsmanship looks top notch. The top of wings had spackle fill(minimal) and smooth joints all around. Ill post pics before i finish recovering.
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So this is what I ended up with after modifying the mounting rails for the 90 degree E-Flite retract so it fully retracts the wheel into the wheel well. On the one hand, I think it looks pretty cool angled forward a bit. On the other hand, it looks like it didn't fully extend. I think it should be OK operationally. I'm gonna try it out. I can always get the 105 degree Robart retract if I want later. Thoughts?1 Photo
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Hello to all !!. i just got my 2 SBUS TO PPM converters and my custom made Callie Graphics with some nomenclatures.
I still have my house upside down that's why i didn't work on the plane, i think i have 2 more weeks before i can do something to the plane 🤨🤨🙄🙄. But on the other hand i obtain a home theater space so i'm getting entertained looking for A/V Equipment. jejeje.
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Well I put mine all together and found that with two batteries on board, it might have to have some weight in the nose. I wont know until I put it on a CG machine. I will say that when it's all together it's kind of a pain to move around the house. So close to a maiden flight.
Also, after getting my decals from Callie I found that the Danger Exhaust, Propeller, and the Marines decal were too big as compared to the decals in the kit. She's redoing them for me at no cost. What a great company. And for comparison I sent her pictures of the decals in the kit with a ruler next to them. I think that if you look at pics of the OV-10 on-line you will find that most of the time the lettering on the booms is smallish. I'm not that much of a scale enthusiast so I'm going to use most of what she sent me.
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I got flight footage today of my buddy Pilot Robert (Different Pilot Robert lol) at Warbirds Over Whatcom. It is an electric setup and it flies so smooth. Anything indicating otherwise would be due to poor camera work, which is possible given that I recorded tons of flights with various Warbirds all day today.
GB
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I came across a build thread for this Profly “twin” and it has some great walk around and
detail pics of the German Demo Team Bronco. Brush up on your German translation and check out the motor graphs that were posted. Could give more insight to some motor choices. It is similar to our forums and consist of 25 pages of which I scrolled through, but I don’t know German to translate. I should have learned it while I was stationed there while in the Army.
Link here, http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...on-Black-Horse
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Originally posted by Rosytime View PostWell I put mine all together and found that with two batteries on board, it might have to have some weight in the nose. I wont know until I put it on a CG machine. I will say that when it's all together it's kind of a pain to move around the house. So close to a maiden flight.
Also, after getting my decals from Callie I found that the Danger Exhaust, Propeller, and the Marines decal were too big as compared to the decals in the kit. She's redoing them for me at no cost. What a great company. And for comparison I sent her pictures of the decals in the kit with a ruler next to them. I think that if you look at pics of the OV-10 on-line you will find that most of the time the lettering on the booms is smallish. I'm not that much of a scale enthusiast so I'm going to use most of what she sent me.
What size batteries and what motors are you using.? Thanks
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I have a set of 3600mah HRBs in there for now. I'm waiting for my 4500 mah Roaring tops to arrive to get the actual CG setting. I've also decided that if I have to add weight, I'm going to use a separate battery for the receiver and servos. As far as motors, I'm using E-Flite power 32s.
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After putting the plane on a CG balancer, with the two batteries in it was still tail heavy. Both batteries are Roaring Top 4500 45c and weigh 456 grams apiece, 912 total. I added a life battery at 216 grams next to them and still tail heavy. I had to add 2 1/4 oz of lead to get it to balance. Unfortunately the batteries can only go so far forward until they interfere with the steering arm on the servo. So it looks like a little dead weight will have to go in the nose area for balancing. This also seals the deal on using a separate battery for the receiver since the weight is needed. Now to find a more square battery that I can use since there is a bit of the cockpit that protrudes into the fuselage. For those were thinking of using a 6 cell set-up it looks like it will be too tight. Ah, a little closer to a maiden.
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