Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[GliderGuy]

Google BROKEN SCREW EXTRACTOR

Several sources / types are available.

-GG

[themudduck]

The secret of course is to heat it up with the iron before you strip it! D'oh!

Once the grub screw is stripped its really hard to remove it, even if you heat it with an iron. I've had good luck drilling out the grub screw and then I install a larger one by tapping & cutting new threads for the larger size.
I would like to use an extractor but I haven't found one small enough for grub screws.

I like RRHandy's idea, I'll bet a LH bit would work really well. They can be hard to find....

[Bad Kitty]

Any ideas on putting aftermarket props and spinners on the P 38?

[rifleman_btx]

None here, been on my original props since I got the plane 3 or so years ago.

[GliderGuy]

Any ideas on putting aftermarket props and spinners on the P 38?

But….it is a VERY good idea to begin using the “new” reinforced hubs. I used to find hub cracks about 3 months of use (lots of flying). The new versions are much more stress tolerant.

Differences shown in the photo below.
-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

Has anyone needed to add weight to the tail to balance their P38? With gear UP and two 4s 3000mah batteries as far back as possible I needed to add 1.25 oz of lead to the tail.

Tom

[GliderGuy]

Has anyone needed to add weight to the tail to balance their P38? With gear UP and two 4s 3000mah batteries as far back as possible I needed to add 1.25 oz of lead to the tail.

Tom

With 306 gram batteries, the CG is good. No tail weight needed. She flies fine with this battery weight (x2 of course) in all gear configurations.

Be sure to set your elevator and flap mix by the manual. Otherwise, she pitches UP when flaps are lowered. Don’t let her get too slow on final.

Tips:
1) Double glue the elevator horn…I had one come loose on me.
2) Install the landing gear upgrades.
3) Leave some power on when you spin her. Otherwise, she doesn’t want to recover. The power keeps enough air flow over the rudders so she stops the spin quickly. Otherwise, she wants to stay in the spin.
4) While the stock elevator servo is fine, you may consider upgrading to a more costly one. You don’t want the elevator servo to fail.
5) Set the ESC brake to ON! Then land with the props stopped. This prevents damage from prop strikes (which will happen).
6) Install the upgraded “newest” prop hubs. These have reinforcement channels. See my prior post #4285 above with photos comparing the old and new hubs. The old hubs develop cracks over time, and you will sling a prop (instant death roll-over).
7) Use Foam-Tac on the prop hub nut….not Lock-Tight (which eats plastic). Setting the ESC brake to ON tends to make the prop hub nut come loose over time, if you don’t add Foam-Tac.
8) Take off with 1/2 flaps, land with full flaps.

-GG

[OV10]

Has anyone needed to add weight to the tail to balance their P38? With gear UP and two 4s 3000mah batteries as far back as possible I needed to add 1.25 oz of lead to the tail.

Tom

Back in the day before the garage model incinerator of 2018, I flew the FL P-38 with (2) 4000 4S Admirals all the way back with (2) 1oz lead wheel weights on the forward bottom part of the horiz stab next to each boom.
This helped eliminate the need for the 4mm up ELE neutral which was because of the book CG @ 65 whereas it belongs at 75mm. Regards,

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

GG., my batteries are 366 grams each which would explain my needing tail weight. I did install the gear upgrade kit. I did add the elevator compensation for flap deployment.
I did not use the flaps today and had no problem taking off or landing. It does roll quite a bit after touching down on the Geotextile runway.
I'm very pleased with the P-38. I did the maiden + 2 flights today. It really sticks to the runway once planted. Plenty of power with the stock power system.
My P-38 came with the improved prop hubs.
I always keep my props spinning with my throttle trim. Old habit of mine.

Tom

[GliderGuy]

Good deal Tom,
Then…..keep close watch on your prop hub for cracks if/when you get a prop strike. PLEASE reconsider the ESC brake. I got a prop strike, and threw a blade on the next few flights. Instant roll-over and death.

Old habits are made to be broken in light of real world evidence. It’s not worth the loss of a plane.

If any gusts are about, or if you get the least bit slow, she will drop like a rock. Best to use flaps on landing to reduce the stall speed as much as possible.

Also, consider that these ESCs DO NOT have prop stall current protection. If a prop strike happens with power on, a LARGE current spike runs through the output transistors. This can create a walking wounded ESC which may fail soon (instant death roll over). Ask me how I know. 🤬

Now you have some REAL data points to consider weighing against “old habits”.


-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

Hey guys/gals. I'm having an odd issue with my starboard motor. On my third flight yesterday and my first flight today it would not spin. Once I disconnected then reconnected my batteries it would run. I'm running two 4s batteries.
Do you think I need to calibrate the ESCs?

Tom

[GliderGuy]

Hey guys/gals. I'm having an odd issue with my starboard motor. On my third flight yesterday and my first flight today it would not spin. Once I disconnected then reconnected my batteries it would run. I'm running two 4s batteries.
Do you think I need to calibrate the ESCs?

Tom

DON’T FLY IT!

Assuming you do not have the batteries connected in parallel, this indicates a poor / intermittent battery connection or some motor control wiring connection.

It the connection fails in flight, instant roll-over and crash.

Start with a complete analysis of the battery wiring to the intermittent motor. There is a wire connection about to fail totally and you won’t like the results. Might be a throttle wire connection, too.

Or….that ESC is going south on you. Nice of it to warn you.

By the way, it is a good idea to connect the P-38 batteries in parallel. That way, if a battery fails, both fans keep turning! Ensures you avoid the instant roll-over and crash if a battery fails. But first, solve your intermittent issue!

-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

Too late. Already flew it.

[GliderGuy]

Too late. Already flew it.

LOL - Don’t fly it any more until you find the problem AND FIX IT!

-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

I won't be flying it any more not only for that issue but also because I hit the nose gear hard today and sheared off the connecting pin on the upgraded nose strut. Good thing my throttle was all the way back when that happened.

Tom

[GliderGuy]

Sorry to hear that. Did she stall and drop in? The P-38 needs speed on final approach to avoid a drop-in landing.

-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

No stall, I just didn't flare in time.

Tom

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

How in the world do I calibrate the ESCs? I removed the Y from the receiver and plugged in the throttle lead directly to the rx. One will calibrate but not the other. STUMPED.

Tom

[GliderGuy]

How in the world do I calibrate the ESCs? I removed the Y from the receiver and plugged in the throttle lead directly to the rx. One will calibrate but not the other. STUMPED.

Tom

Leave both throttle connections connected.

CAUTION - Remove the props for safety!!!!!

YouTube:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KV0DzOQDk8M

The manual is helpful:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/10...iles/fwesc.pdf

-GG

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

GG: I have the motors synced. Don't ask me how I did it, lol

Tom