Brilliant T007! Thank you! Remounted the ball link on the underside of servo arm and alignment much improved.
-
-
Just got mine today via FedEx. I was pleasantly surprised that it came with electric retracts! I was expecting pneumatic ones. Sticker on outside of box stated with electric retracts included— sounds mine might have been one of the first? In any event, will plan on going with 190 electric for the motor.Comment
-
Super Marty! I got mine late last year also with elec retracts.
I was going to post anyway sooner or later, but the supplied ball links are kinda cruddy. Holes not proper size, only a few I could ream out for a good fit with the ball. I ended up using mostly these.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Others have used dubro too.
The tail wheel will take some fiddling. As supplied, when I did a dry fit, the arm for the pull-pull would hit the bulkhead. So by playing with the set screws on the shaft, I was able to adjust the arm, but I still had to dremel some space on the bulkhead to allow smooth pull of the wires.
Otherwise, pretty nice fit.Comment
-
While I am here, did anyone do any sort of reinforcement of the gear mount? If so, what, how? Cheers....Comment
-
I sure remember back in the day, building Balsa & ply aircraft. I'd have to perform several modifications. These days it looks like a lot of the work is already done for you. I absolutely love the Spitfire. Man, what an aircraft for the time & even today. It's so incredible people built these aircraft and, now we can have an RC model version to fly. Keep them coming Motion RC!Comment
-
Am currently building a Hostetler 34% mong racing bipe so this will be a nice plane to get together from a relaxation standpoint (but with frustration mixed in as well regarding anticipated fitment issues and supplied hardware)— still nice to get a plane like this in the air and not spend a few years building it. I have not started my build but reinforcing gear area in gear box area is always a good idea so long as weight is kept in mind. Lots of guys who have built the Mick Reeves Spit and The Meister Me109 reinforced the gear area beyond what the plan showed. Here, the manufacturing process probably went with lightish ply (am only guessing). At minimum maybe triangle stock and or CF fiber mat—-weight gain is minimal. I would also use Hysol 9462 vs regular 30 min epoxy— just my 2 cents without having really looked at this planeComment
-
A cool thing to do would be to use a rotary drive system (RDS) to operate the control surfaces—results in hidden linkages and no horns needed— glider guys have been using those for years and scale guys are now using them more and more.Comment
-
Question: what would be the best total power setup if you wanted more than enough power and money was not a concern?Comment
-
-
Mokis are nice. If you really want to hear a sweet sounding, high performance engine, check out Valach.Comment
-
Sorry, I should have been more clear—- I meant electric power set up.Comment
-
Guys, are your gear axles angled like this? Wondering if I should shim the retract unit to get them more parallel. Probably not worth the effort though.
Thx. A few more finishing touches and should be ready to go....as soon as the field dries up!Comment
-
I would still like some more input on power combos guys are using for this plane—- thanks!Comment
-
Hi
I have older Spitfire from BH with a 10S setup.
Motor SK3-6374-192
ESC Phoenix ICE HV 120
Prop Ramoser 3 blade 17.2 inch/ 23 inch
Current draw max take off 55-60 Amps.
Current draw in flight 15-20 amps
Will update after next flight because my telemetry data wasn't logged right.
Regards Hans
Attached FilesComment
-
-
Thanks Hans—- how is the performance with that set up?Comment
-
Hi
Compared to my Spitfire with DLE30 it flew the same.
Have to make a remark that I fly scale, with this setup plenty of power for me.
Also if you want more pull and speed you can move up with prop diameter and pitch.
Motor I mentioned is rated for 80A and 2750 watt.
I used max 2400 watt.
grts HansComment
-
Hey fellas, where is the best CG for this? The manual says 118mm. When I popped on the supplied CG balancer and compared it to my measurement bar set precisely at 118mm, the supplied CG unit is about 125mm which may make it tail heavy. Someone posted earlier that they used 100mm CG!
I am temped to try to get it around 115.....Where have you all had best luck, limit nose overs, etc.
ThxComment
-
About CG
I fly version one BH136 Spitfire. ( I have 2 one with a 4 stroke OS gas engine 40cc and one electric 10S 192Kv)
It must be me, telling that CG should be at 100mm from LE.
For me it should be there for sure, and in windy condition I would like it a bit more forward, last week I flew with gust winds and my plane wiggled around in the air, last Sunday it was calm and it flew great.
Regards Hans
Picture in flight 20-04-2021Attached FilesComment
-
-
Pilots
My new engine sound
grtsComment
Comment