Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

[themudduck]

To answer Angryflyer's question, that file was exactly what he needed. Brake ON/OFF for most ESCs is the second item, right after the initial beeps for doing the throttle calibration. It doesn't have to tell you whether it's ON or OFF. It alternates. They all do that. If it's ON, do it again and it's OFF and vica versa. I think most people know this. As for the rest, most flyers will never go there because they aren't needed. That's how some folks screw up their ESC settings and begin to wonder why something doesn't work. If you have a reason to go to those more advanced settings, you'll know in advance what those things mean or you find a better instruction guide.

I know how to change settings and I know about the beeps. My point is that this "guide" isn't particularly helpful due to some mysterious parameters. (some are understandable, some are not) Why defend an instruction guide like that? You're saying that if I want to change any of the advanced settings, I should just "know" in advance what those settings mean, like "angle of entrance" on the guide. Someone wearing a white coat with an advanced degree probably came up with that one, don't you think? Probably someone just like this guy?

Anyway what I would like to do is increase the motor timing. This worked well with the LX B25 to get a nice jump in performance. Perhaps you can be so kind, let me know which one is for motor timing. Yes I am aware it will affect the amperage draw and so on, it could ruin the motors, yes, yes, but that will be my own problem and if it doesn't help then I can change it back!. (#8 restores the default settings)

[Evan D]

For P&T set ups I like a longer lens since I can "look around" and use about a 6mm. For fixed FPV in airplanes I like a 3-3.6mm. On my racing quads I like the regular 2.1-2.5mm. You can buy CCTv lenses cheap off Amazon and add a IR cut filter to the back to get the colors right.

My camera of choice in the Runcam Micro Eagle because it's got a good size sensor.

[James]

First FPV flight video.

https://youtu.be/JUnxr4rrELQ

Love that Evan! That large canopy really helps the view! What TVL is your fpv lens? Seems not as wide as others I've seen.

[Evan D]

First FPV flight video.

https://youtu.be/JUnxr4rrELQ

[Evan D]

It is a yaw wiggle, not the usual roll wiggle...

Some videos look like theirs has less than mine does so I'm wondering if they have a gyro or why.

I did my first FPV flights as well as more los ones. No wind today and no tail wag.
..

[Rcfiddy1]

I did my maiden this past weekend and noticed right away the dreaded wiggle even with no ordinance. I have a frsky s8r installed and gyro was active in stabilize mode only with gains set about 50%. I tried lowering and raising rates during flight but it didn’t help. So I don’t think the gyro will help much. Something is just a bit off with this plane. Maybe the pods are just not stiff enough. I don’t know but this is the second ov10 at my field with same tendency. I’m going to get it out again and run a few more tests.

[Angryflyer]

Definitely let us know how the gyro works out. I have exactly one flight on mine and love how slow it can fly but somehow need to tighten the way it flies. I don't mind a tail that doesn't 'track like it's on rails', as they say, but it's tendency to rock left and right is annoying and too sloppy for my taste.

[xviper]

Nothing much good on the TV tonight, so went downstairs to play with some planes. One project was to install a Freewing 3-axis gyro into the OV-10. Got it all put in. Made a shelf. Lots of room for everything, even enough space to reach the gain pots for adjustments. Lots of room for the batteries to go in with a little wiggle room for different sizes.
I had this gyro in my 3.0m Fox Glider so that it would stay level after throwing it. I'm getting rid of the Fox, so the gyro was free. It was very effective on the glider and bench testing it on the OV, it would appear that it will likely help a great deal in calming down some of the "wildness" that some have posted about. Mine was very much affected by any wind gusts on the roll axis and the tail waggled a lot, wind or no wind. As soon a the rains stop, it'll get some test runs to fine tune the gains.

[xviper]

Its under the "support" tab. I've attached it here. Have you looked at it? . There are 22 different beep sequences... which are really hard to understand. It's really pretty poor for a manual. It doesn't show what the default settings are... for example, the second section is "brake" - but it doesn't say whether its on or off. The third section is "type of battery" and it shows "Nickel-Hydrogen battery" or "Lithium battery". Which one is the default? And WTH is a "Nickel-Hydrogen" battery? (this is obviously supposed to be NiMH)

I was looking to see if I could try a different timing setting. But, which setting is for the motor timing? There's one that says "Angle of Entrance". GAAAH is that a motor setting, or a Porn reference? Hmm, maybe it's "PWM setting of motor" - but I have no clue what that means. It has three "helicopter modes" - but no info as to what they do or what it means!

To answer Angryflyer's question, that file was exactly what he needed. Brake ON/OFF for most ESCs is the second item, right after the initial beeps for doing the throttle calibration. It doesn't have to tell you whether it's ON or OFF. It alternates. They all do that. If it's ON, do it again and it's OFF and vica versa. I think most people know this. As for the rest, most flyers will never go there because they aren't needed. That's how some folks screw up their ESC settings and begin to wonder why something doesn't work. If you have a reason to go to those more advanced settings, you'll know in advance what those things mean or you find a better instruction guide.

[JLambCWU]

Pics of the maiden

[JLambCWU]

Flew the maiden flight LIVE on FB, and she flies great. Super stable, flaps up or down. Also will take off in less than 50ft with takeoff flaps here with density altitudes over 5,000ft.

After the maiden I still had 68% left on twin 4500mah batteries. So I took her back up and had over 40% left after a total of 10 minutes of flight.

Another fantastic product from Freewing and MotionRC

[Angryflyer]

The ESC is the same as the B-24. Go to Motion and look under the B-24 and you’ll find the ESC manual.

thx, that worked for me.

[themudduck]

The ESC is the same as the B-24. Go to Motion and look under the B-24 and you’ll find the ESC manual.

Its under the "support" tab. I've attached it here. Have you looked at it? . There are 22 different beep sequences... which are really hard to understand. It's really pretty poor for a manual. It doesn't show what the default settings are... for example, the second section is "brake" - but it doesn't say whether its on or off. The third section is "type of battery" and it shows "Nickel-Hydrogen battery" or "Lithium battery". Which one is the default? And WTH is a "Nickel-Hydrogen" battery? (this is obviously supposed to be NiMH)

I was looking to see if I could try a different timing setting. But, which setting is for the motor timing? There's one that says "Angle of Entrance". GAAAH is that a motor setting, or a Porn reference? Hmm, maybe it's "PWM setting of motor" - but I have no clue what that means. It has three "helicopter modes" - but no info as to what they do or what it means!

[Evan D]

My satellite is in the nose, there’s a rectangular hole you can put it through in the front of the nose wheel bay. This plane does have a lot of wires but it also has a lot of room for it compared to some other planes like the P-38.

[Jpmcdo]

I did the utility hatch mod. The back half of the fuselage has tons of room to get receiver out of the way. The remote will be installed forward in the main battery bay.

I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.

The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.

I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.

you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..

The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.

Thanks, gives me something to think about. I’m probably not going to use a satellite but may rethink that. The antennae wires on the AR637T are very long and will reach forward into the battery compartment away from the other wires. I may just unplug and start over after orienting my receiver. I am a bit reluctant to move forward until I decide on the satellite.

[xviper]

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

Since it's NOT a gyro RX, it can be mounted in any orientation. I'm using a Lemon 10-ch DSMX/P RX. I've got it mounted on its side, stuck to the wall, just in front of the BB and up high. The satellite is stuck to the roof, upside down, behind the hatch, using some very sticky 3M double sided tape. As I was building the plane, I started to plan the RX placement, so not a lot of thinking or time involved.

[Gilatrout]

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

I did the utility hatch mod. The back half of the fuselage has tons of room to get receiver out of the way. The remote will be installed forward in the main battery bay.

I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.

The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.

I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.

you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..

The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.

[Jpmcdo]

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

[Wild Man]

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.

Like the Old saying goes (YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR) and the new AR637T is not that expensive I am assembling my Older Bothers OV-10 and we are going to use the AR8010T Spektrum rec.with one satellite

[Gilatrout]

I’m really sorry that happened to you and now I’m nervous. I have a Spektrum Ix12 transmitter and just bought a AR637T for my receiver and they are not cheap.

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.