Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

[Evan D]

Nice Vic!

[vduniec]

[xviper]

Just came back from a couple of flights fine tuning and testing out a gyro (Freewing 3-axis) for the OV. I include the video of the second flight, after the gyro was set. Note that the take off was with gyro OFF. A bit of wind caused it to roll a bit as it left the ground. The first flight with gyro OFF had the same take off (and tough N go) wiggle and with gyro ON, rock solid. Testing different maneuvers with gyro ON and OFF, I can conclude that the gyro made all the difference in the world. With gyro ON, the waggle was gone! Landings without a gyro was a bit bouncy and not too consistent. WITH gyro ON, you can see at the end of the video how that went.
My first day of flying this plane, I was not all that impressed with it but now that the gyro has been installed, it's a totally different airplane. I was a bit "ho hum" about it at first, but now I really, really like it. Once I get a little more grunt into the drive system, I may actually love this thing. The guys at the field all liked the looks of it, no doubt about that.
There's a lot of chatter between another club member and myself, not to mention a lot of loud background noise from the gas guys, so turn down the volume or turn it off altogether, however, some of the chatter is relevant to the OV's flight characteristics as it relates to the gyro (and other things).

[xviper]

So, what are the questions ................................. ???????

[Flat-Twin]

... just in case, there are still some questions, regarding the wiring ...

[Angryflyer]

The throttle leads are "Y'd" together. No need to mess with individual "signal wires". Just unplug the one throttle lead from the Y that you don't want to mess with. However, I think you need to access the ends of the Y when the wing is not secured to the fuse. But then, you'd have to do that anyway if you were going to fool around with just the signal wire.

Thx. That's what I THOUGHT I did but when I was done setting the esc up I realized that I had unplugged the gear wire instead. Oh well, all is good and I got a second flight this afternoon.... what a nice flyer! Still wobbles a bit but kinda' fun to managed actually. Slow flights over the runway is just too cool.

[xviper]

One more thing about setting the brake to ask.

I somehow got lucky and didn't change something else on the other motor when I listened for the tone of the one I wanted to fix. Would unplugging a signal wire of the motor you don't want changed be correct?
It's a Y'd setup so I assume unplugging motor wires would be wrong.

The throttle leads are "Y'd" together. No need to mess with individual "signal wires". Just unplug the one throttle lead from the Y that you don't want to mess with. However, I think you need to access the ends of the Y when the wing is not secured to the fuse. But then, you'd have to do that anyway if you were going to fool around with just the signal wire.

[themudduck]

themudduck , this video should help you with the ESC:

James, thank you. (by the way everything on my Bronco is working perfectly)

[Angryflyer]

One more thing about setting the brake to ask.

I somehow got lucky and didn't change something else on the other motor when I listened for the tone of the one I wanted to fix. Would unplugging a signal wire of the motor you don't want changed be correct?
It's a Y'd setup so I assume unplugging motor wires would be wrong.

[Rcfiddy1]

Would be so much easier to get those default settings on paper so that those of us that can program the esc can be 100 percent sure we have the correct settings. Buying a new esc you are able to listen to beeps and program it to match what you need. I only say this because getting a plane out of box and only one esc needing changes makes you wonder if they got the other right. I will set mine to default to see if it fixes my startup issue. I doubt it since both startup together but one will spin faster. I did calibration 6 times now.

[Evan D]

I think he’s just another person asking to not be helped...

[xviper]

Yes it’s easy but than you run into a problem not knowing what the defaults are. Lipo or nimh, 8or16k? There’s no way of knowing what settings they are on. Other escs tell you when you enter that mode.

Generally, a plane comes with the default settings and those settings work very adequately for the plane it comes in. Changing the default settings comes in handy when the end user wants to fine tune something or he/she messes things up when trying to do a throttle calibration and doesn't realize at what point to bring the stick down. I have never changed any ESCs default settings for any plane except for when I messed up the calibration and did something I didn't mean to do or when I was experimenting with "timing", only to discover that the plane worked better had I just left it all alone. I think that's why they call it "factory default". However, like what we've seen with some of the quality control issues with the "blue boxes", every once in a while, an ESC gets buggered at the factory because it was a bad day for that worker. Then you put it back to "factory default".

[Jpmcdo]

I was able to fix my battery hatch latch. I put red paint on the pin and then pulled it all the way back put 5he hatch on and let the pin go. It put a red mark on the plastic keeper. I used a small hobby file and filed the plastic down until the pin was able to go into the spot where the paint was. Mine is tight now.

will I still put magnets on, yes.

[Rcfiddy1]

Yes it’s easy but than you run into a problem not knowing what the defaults are. Lipo or nimh, 8or16k? There’s no way of knowing what settings they are on. Other escs tell you when you enter that mode.

[Evan D]

You can do a default reset on them... It is real easy to set a brake when you calibrate them.

[Rcfiddy1]

It would be nice to have a sheet telling you what settings should be used for a particular motor. My buddies bronco came from factory with brake on only one motor. Who’s to say another setting wasn’t correct.

[Jpmcdo]

I was unable to keep my ar637t bound because I had the power UBEC lead plugged into the bind port. I temporarily moved the UBEC lead to the aux port, and used the bind button on the receiver to start the bind process. After a power cycle the receiver stayed bound, and I plugged the UBEC lead back into the bind port with no problems.

I’ll give that a try. I ended up moving the UBEC to a Y on the flap channel. The receiver bound fine. I’ll see if I can move it back now. May just have to keep it on another channel via a Y adapter. I was doing what was done on the MRC build video.

[AuggieJuan]

I was unable to keep my ar637t bound because I had the power UBEC lead plugged into the bind port. I temporarily moved the UBEC lead to the aux port, and used the bind button on the receiver to start the bind process. After a power cycle the receiver stayed bound, and I plugged the UBEC lead back into the bind port with no problems.

[Jpmcdo]

I'm not suggesting that you're doing something wrong, but just to cover all the bases, are you doing it this way?

Yes thanks, I did everything he said up to video 3. It should have bound on video two and stayed bound. My plan is to get it bound, fly it then do the forward programming. If it won't stay bound, it doesn't make sense to go any further on his videos.

[xviper]

I won't be flying my maiden flight for awhile. I'm using an AR637T receiver and it's not working correctly. Every time I hook up the batteries the receiver has to be rebound. I'm using an IX12 and tested it out on my older DX9. On both I have had to rebind each time.

I'm not suggesting that you're doing something wrong, but just to cover all the bases, are you doing it this way?