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It's the FMS 4258-650kV motor from the P-40BWarbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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OH!!! Well, I just happen to have a couple of those with ESC's too!!!! That should be pretty spectacular!!! Thanks Charlie! :Cool:Comment
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I put this set-up, 4258-650, in 3 of my Bearcats. Two are the FL 1200mm Bearcat and the other is my 11Hobby Bearcat. Paired with the prop from the 1400mm Corsair, they definitely improve the performance!
If I remember correctly, I am using the 70 amp FMS ESC in all 3.
Bob
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Yep, the way to go!
Personally, I have an A3L in mine as well, running an 85A Mantis ESC I added one tab of weight to the back end of the fuselage to help balance her out. I run Admiral 4000's in her, old and new. The ESC cables a really short, one of the minuses of a Mantis ESC and the battery has to go back to the cross member to give a good CG, so the trick is to plug the battery in and let the A3L sync up, then slide the battery into position and strap her down, I have two straps on mine.
Now this is the way to fly a Bearcat!!
The verticals are amazing and the aerobatics are huge. Big fat loops, no problem.
The beauty of it is that she doesn't lose and slow flight characteristics either, still very docile to land. I have at least two if not more guys hooked on her at our field.
Before I painted the spinner nut yellow.
Grossman56Last edited by Grossman56; Jul 23, 2018, 07:41 PM. Reason: type-oh, should have said 4000's instead of 5000'sTeam Gross!Comment
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Same. 4S 4000 all the way up front.
BobComment
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When I got mine 2nd Bearcat I put a retractable tail wheel in it, while it was cool didnt help with the cg and had to add lots of weight in the noseComment
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thx guys.Comment
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as I was looking through this thread I came to a post about the foam hinges, it showed a pic with foam and pin hinges , on motion's website for the plane it shows that only the flap have a live hinge, but does the rest of the plane have a live hinge's on the control surfaces? thxComment
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well my wallet just got a lot smaller. just bought the fliteline 1600mm spitfire and this bearcat. it was hard to choose between the seafury and the bearcat …..Comment
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Indeed, but I dare say you made a wise choice. :Cool:Comment
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I to myself would like to see it a little bigger as many have said earlier, but from the way it looks like flys and handles I see a future Bearcat in my hanger.Still Learning:DComment
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MRC sent new plastic gear doors and the bottom assembly. How to get the old one out, is it glued in, epoxy, ??? With a 4s 4000mah all the way forward, it took 3 oz of lead to balance place behind the fake engine in the front of the plane. Is this normal?
Also waiting on pics of magnet placement to close the gear door before i pry out the old ones.Comment
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I used an admiral 4000 (the new version) and still needed 3 oz up front to get the c/g. one more thing for anyone like me who live at high elevation(im at 5400 feet) get the high speed motor when you buy the plane you will thank me later. I had to fly wot the whole flight anything below 85% the plane started down. I will be buying the upgrade motor when im done here. one question on that do I need to upgrade the esc or not? thx glennComment
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Interesting, we're at 5000 feet here in Cody and the stock system was pretty good. I wanted the four blade prop for scale looks, so that's why I went with the 650kv and the 1400mm Corsair prop on mine. The thing is awesome! Had it out yesterday with a buddy of mine who's just learning to fly. He loves it, I told him, "watch this and ran it down the runway at about 20 feet, then fed full throttle and pulled her back. Climbs like a homesick angel! I hate to think how high she'll go, when she gets to be a speck, I roll her over and cut the throttle way back. Just amazing!
Think it over before going the upgrade, its a minimal amount of work to get the 650kv in her and she looks so scale with that big prop. Also went an 85 A Mantis ESC, beware of the short battery connecting cables in these! I have an A3L in her as well as I like the way she handles with it. The trick with the battery, at least for me, is to plug it in and let the gyro stabilize, then place the battery in the proper position, which is so the rear of the battery is sitting on the cross bar, you know what I mean if you have one. Also, I put a tab of weight on the tail of the fuse to help with the CG, what with extra weight on the nose.
I know this is probably old news to anyone following this thread, but this is my favorite aerobatic airplane, she'll do anything you ask of her and still has great low speed flight characteristics.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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I have got my Bearcat (replaced the fuse) ready to punch some holes in the sky again. But I am going to have to remove the blue distribution box and get some Y connectors. I connected the blue box and when I powered up the plane the 1 flap servo went nuts it was chattering up and down and the gear would not work checked the connections twice and my receiver would not bind with my trans. I ran a couple of Y connectors and the plane rx bound to the trans and all the control surfaces operated like they are supposed to do. I'm suspecting the dist box was responsible for the uncontrolled flight.Comment
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Is the landing gear on this plane metal or plasticComment
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Wired covered with a plastic frame. Just finished installing some screws to the plastic gear mount that attaches to the wing. The weak spot, to my mind at least, is that the mount is flat on the glue side so it tends to come off easily. With some of the ruts we have on our runway, it happens a few times during the year, so I figure that a couple of glued screws drilled through the mount to act as 'teeth' the to foam might help to give it more strength over all.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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