Official FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk Thread

[Grossman56]

Don't know whether she'll ever fly or not, but she'll at least hang from the ceiling!

Grossman56

[Elbee]

Thanks LB, it's just something to do since the wind is up! Here's the result of today's work.Grossman56

GM, That is looking quite good. I have toyed with your idea of aluminum duct tape as covering material and I like your results. I have a Freewing/Flightline (?) B-17 NIB that I would like to do in metal or at least part of it. Will be watching with enthusiasm. Best, LB

[Grossman56]

The duct tape route limits you to the width of the duct tape where Flite Metal is a sheet, but more expensive. Flite Metal, supposedly stretches somewhat (read very little) but you can cut one piece panel lines where in this case, I've had to overlap pieces within a panel line. The good thing about the P-40 is there isn't a lot of compound curves. The wing fairings for example, went very smoothly much to my surprise!
When I did my Mustang it only started to look good when everything was covered and in this case the green that isn't covered stands out like a sore thumb. For going around the gun tray, I started with a paper layout, using rough measurements directly from the plane using a ruler, then cut it out and trial fitted it, once I was satisfied with the paper version, I overlaid it on the tape. Even using the paper backing is handy for measuring the limits of the width. It does crinkle easily, especially if you pull the piece back off, easier to just cut another piece, which I've done a couple of times

Grossman56

[Elbee]

GM, Thanks. It does look good. LB

[Johnnyrabuse]

I have this plane the first was great now they put the predator esc 70 amp speed controller in it that fries at 65 they also save money on glue by not gluing in the retracts they also put the wrong servo in the rudder wheel goes one way the rudder the other my first from motion was great the next two from HH were crap I’ve had to replace every esc in every HH warbird thus far this year if you have a predator esc you are warned

[Grossman56]

Good to know Johnny, I have a few 650 kv's kicking around and should have a Mantis 85 Amp ESC which I've found to be a good combination other than the fact that the leads on the ESC are too darned short, so you have to buy the extensions as well. I'm going to salvage the rudder and elevator servos from my wrecked FMS P-51B. Will probably get a set of wings and a horizontal stab to finish the 'metalizing' but will have to wait after that for more funds to appear for the gear and aileron/ flap servos. Priced out everything that I'd need and it comes short of $24 from buying a new complete kit. I'm thinking of going Hitec servos instead of the FMS stock ones anyway.
It's all the little things that you forget, like the wing joiners, the pushrods, the screw set the control board, the tail wheel and servo the tail wheel gear doors that nickle and dime you to death.

Grossman56

[Stu Welch]

Hey guys, I’m having a problem with rudder and tailwheel coordination. Rudder goes one way and the tailwheel the other way. I have a DX6E transmitter with AR620 receiver. I reversed the servo but still have the problem. Anyone else had this problem? Any help would be appreciated.

[Cchrissyv1]

Looks good, Grossman! Excited to see how she turns out.

[Johnnyrabuse]

Hey guys, I’m having a problem with rudder and tailwheel coordination. Rudder goes one way and the tailwheel the other way. I have a DX6E transmitter with AR620 receiver. I reversed the servo but still have the problem. Anyone else had this problem? Any help would be appreciated.

It's not you it's EXACTLY what I described in my post I really hope you read this

It's a manufacturing defect I've had twice with this model the best way to fix it is either to switch out the servo on the rudder this might involve modifying the mount the tailwheel servo is an oddball size

The second way is to get a ten dollar servo reverser use it on the tailwheel

While your at it take out the predetor speed controller it's garbage put in an 85 from motion RC or I guarantee at wot you will have a motor cut off and stall into the ground

Trust me on this it's my second one from HH

The first ended badly

The second I almost lost to the speed controller

Had the same problem with the FMS p47 razor back

FMS zero and two p40s

[paladin]

why not just move the output arm to the other side of the rudder servo. remove the out put arm turn it 180 degrees and put it back on the servo. that may put a bend in the push rod requiring its sheath to be moved over from where it comes out of the foam.

Joe

[Stu Welch]

why not just move the output arm to the other side of the rudder servo. remove the out put arm turn it 180 degrees and put it back on the servo. that may put a bend in the push rod requiring its sheath to be moved over from where it comes out of the foam.

Joe

I could remount the servo over and rotate the arm and it will still be in line with the old one. Thanx. I was hoping there would be a real simple unplug replug something.

[Stu Welch]

It's not you it's EXACTLY what I described in my post I really hope you read this

It's a manufacturing defect I've had twice with this model the best way to fix it is either to switch out the servo on the rudder this might involve modifying the mount the tailwheel servo is an oddball size

The second way is to get a ten dollar servo reverser use it on the tailwheel

While your at it take out the predetor speed controller it's garbage put in an 85 from motion RC or I guarantee at wot you will have a motor cut off and stall into the ground

Trust me on this it's my second one from HH

The first ended badly

The second I almost lost to the speed controller

Had the same problem with the FMS p47 razor back

FMS zero and two p40s

Thanx for the info. Were all the failed ESC's the 75 preditor? In have a message in to Horizon Hobby about the rudder/tail wheel coordination problem. I'll let you know what they say.

[Johnnyrabuse]

why not just move the output arm to the other side of the rudder servo. remove the out put arm turn it 180 degrees and put it back on the servo. that may put a bend in the push rod requiring its sheath to be moved over from where it comes out of the foam.

Joe

Yes on my second that's exactly what I did the result was the rudder and elevator rods were too close together I had cut down the rudder servo arm as it would not bind with the other

The result was as following

Took off flew about ten seconds lost elevator and rudder I think the rods were to close together

Lost the plane in the wilderness and a battery and a receiver second flight since I love the P40 airframe I ordered another from HH

To my amazement I discovered the same exact problem and switched out the servo at home on my bench I had to modify the mount a little but I have a stronger servo now

On the maiden of the second plane the speed controller gave out same as my zero

So I replaced it

Now both aircraft perform well

This far for the models I have I had to pay 100 dollars for upgrades on esc

The third plane a p47 1500 razorback had a 70 amp predetor esc in it

I knew I should change it but I didn't because honestly I wanted to see if HH and FMS were consistent in sell garbage

Well .....

Second flight I went WOT and within I'd say five seconds that esc went out plane stalled I made the mistake of putting down the retracts and now I'm waiting for the order to come in

Another 100 bucks

Now honestly to me it's really not the money my hobby is expendable income

But I know now for certain that FMS actually knows this is an issue but they don't care

And that HH knows but profit comes first so to them I say

I will never ever buy a product from them again

Hope that explains things

[Johnnyrabuse]

Thanx for the info. Were all the failed ESC's the 75 preditor? In have a message in to Horizon Hobby about the rudder/tail wheel coordination problem. I'll let you know what they say.

70 amp predetor I believe the draw of prop and motor wot overheats it I've had three substandard this far

[Stu Welch]

I’ll be buying another ESC before I fly it. Thanks a lot. I couldn’t find the exact battery in the manual and ended up with a 4000 4s. But 30c instead of 35c as per the manual. Will it be ok to use the 30c battery?

[OV10]

I’ll be buying another ESC before I fly it. Thanks a lot. I couldn’t find the exact battery in the manual and ended up with a 4000 4s. But 30c instead of 35c as per the manual. Will it be ok to use the 30c battery?

Hello Stu and welcome to the Squawk.
A 30C batt will be sufficient. A 4000mAh is also no issue. It is just a matter of positioning it aft a little on the tray whereas the back end may overhanging the back edge of the tray slightly in order to achieve a CG of 75mm.
Don't know how much of this thread you have researched but the recommended CG of 50-55mm listed on page 10 of the manual is WRONG. Go with the 75mm I just mentioned in the placement of the battery on the tray.
I am actually flying this on 6S power after modding the power system with the 4258-kV460 motor from the FMS 1500mm P-47 Razorback and was using an Admiral 4500mAh 6S which weighs about 9 oz more than the Admiral 4000 4S.
About a third of the LiPo overhangs the back of the battery tray to make the 75mm CG. This bird don't care about the extra weight and has unlimited vertical on 6S power. As a matter of battery upgrades last summer I no longer use 6S LiPo's but instead use 2 3S in serial. I flew this with 2 3S 5000 Admirals in serial which weigh 2x as much as the 4000 4S.
This bird can handle it on the ground and in the air. Slap that 4000 30C 4S in her a go have some fun.
Best regards,

[Stu Welch]

Thanks sooo much!

[Johnnyrabuse]

I’ll be buying another ESC before I fly it. Thanks a lot. I couldn’t find the exact battery in the manual and ended up with a 4000 4s. But 30c instead of 35c as per the manual. Will it be ok to use the 30c battery?

Yes it's not a battery toaster but try to keep the high speed down you will get more cycles I fly mine with a 3000 admiral and get 4 minutes mixed throttle I have found the lighter pack to be more forgiving on the landing mounts the gear itself is solid the tires are good the glue on the mounts is spotty

Here's another tip

With the prop off turn the plane on then drop the gear put it on something like an upside down stool

Be sure to pass it I took an old one glued some sponges to the bottom of the legs now it's padded

Push forward towards the nose see if the mounts lift if they do use five minute epoxy

If they don't leave it be

I think sometimes though it's better if the units break free you don't break struts

Mine are reinforced with cut popsicle sticks because I sometimes fly crosswind and it didn't hold up on crabbing

[Johnnyrabuse]

* be sure to pad it ......

Dam auto correct

[Johnnyrabuse]

I also didn't need nose weight but every planes not the same be sure to cg it

[Stu Welch]

She is balancing real well between 70 and 75 mm. Thanks for the info