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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

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  • That's what I figured from the nose gun after looking at that but the glass parts are still needed. Why wouldn't that be in the plastic parts? I mean they even include the tail gunner and turret glass but not the other 2??

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    • Here's how the wing anchors should be.

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      • Originally posted by OV10 View Post

        The constant "on" of the landing lights I have remedied very easily and inexpensively(less than $5) on other birds like the FMS 1400 Corsair and T-28.
        To get the lights to being on when gear is down and off when gear is up is done with one reversing circuit and one Y cable.
        The reversing circuit ........... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...rser-long.html

        Plug the Y lead male end in the gear channel of the receiver.
        Plug the lead of the retracts into one of the female connectors of the Y lead.
        Plug the reverser(input) into the other female connector of the Y lead.
        Plug the gear lights into the reverser female(output) connector. [ ensure polarity is correct ie , red + positive and black/brown - negative.................the signal white/yellow wire on reverser is of no consequence ;)]
        What would be the best way to remove the cover on the bottom of the wing to access to the LED?

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        • Originally posted by Mad Baron View Post

          What would be the best way to remove the cover on the bottom of the wing to access to the LED?
          Can't help ya with the mechanical aspect of access to the LED cause I don't have this bird yet and probably won't for a awhile until Dynam remediates the pricing.
          For all the issues that have been staked so far, it's value is certainly not more than it's close Dynam family twin power sake the BF-110 @ $209.
          With the Dynam ME-262 @ a $239 value it makes the pricing on this B-26 a true Baltimore *****.LOL
          Warbird Charlie
          HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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          • This pic shows the LE of the stab, on the right side (right edge of the picture is facing the nose).

            Noticing that I need to have some "up" trim to fly level (like everyone else), I was thinking I could adjust the stab a bit. The front part of the stab was sitting up just a bit, it wasn't perfectly flush.
            So I removed the stab and carefully trimmed out the saddle (about 1/16" at the front) in order to lower the leading edge of the stab about 1/16". Its important to be precise - to ensure the stab still fits properly and is level.

            Result shown here - look carefully and you'll see that the top part of the stab is now sitting perfectly flush with the top of the fuselage. This should make it possible to fly with the elevators close to neutral. I'll be flying it this weekend and I'll let everyone know.

            Also - I took out the weight in the tail. I don't need tail weight. I am pretty sure that's only needed if you're using a light battery like a 3000. Bigger batteries have more than enough weight to balance the model properly.
            And less weight is always better. I HATE adding weight to a plane for balance. That's what the battery is for.


            Click image for larger version  Name:	tail.jpg Views:	2 Size:	51.5 KB ID:	93108
            Attached Files
            Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

            Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

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            • Originally posted by Mad Baron View Post

              What would be the best way to remove the cover on the bottom of the wing to access to the LED?
              The cover isn't the problem. You can get that off with a sharp blade like Xacto. The bulb itself you may have to work it out by grabbing it with hemostats covered with fuel hose. Grab the LED and wiggle it left and right to get it free of the glue. Once out, you can snip the wires, leaving enough wire to work with. Solder the new light in and stuff it all back in with some glue. Glue the cover back on once you've tested the light. I did this on a dud LED on my P-38. It should work the same way on this one.

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              • What a shame can't finish my plane because of the missing parts, and that top hatch fits like a glove.

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                • Well I ordered what I hope to have the parts I need. Cockpit set and canopy set. If those don't have the parts there's no other things left that would pertain to those two areas. This is very upsetting not knowing what exactly you need to order for the parts needed to complete a project.

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                  • And for the record I looked in this fuselage. No weight in the tail at all

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                    • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
                      And for the record I looked in this fuselage. No weight in the tail at all
                      Your weight may have popped out when you crashed. It was just lying there in the tail gun position, not glued in. Good riddance.
                      Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

                      Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

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                      • No this is a new one I bought from the spare parts page, I have both weights from the original fuselage, I had to get a whole new fuse because the impact shortened the left side by a 1/4 inch just behind the wing.

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                        • Makes me wonder if the weights are installed on ones that may have inconsistencies and instead of destroying the units added the weights to compensate for an improperly balanced unit due to foam defects

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                          • The weights should be mounted vertical in "clamshells" left and right furthest aft compartment. I checked with a pushrods through the foam and hit them from both sides. This is where they go, see finger.

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                            • OK Rifleman I see, you meant the weights were missing from the replacement fuselage that you got. That makes some sense to me, since the replacement parts usually don't have any hardware in them (servos, motors, etc)

                              Ryan, and Rifleman, separate from that issue...I'm trying to understand why adding weight to the tail would be necessary (or even desirable).
                              If the model is nose heavy, then you can use a slightly smaller battery or push it back farther. That's what I'm planning to try this weekend.
                              Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

                              Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

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                              • So up on the very back wall of the aft compartment? I ran my finger in there and felt nothing at all. Floor back wall or side walls. Only thing felt were the installed guns

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                                • I used a dremel and cut the "pistol grips" off the guns so I could remove them and make them fit the tail gunner area better. When the guns are out, you can shine a flashlight through the gun port and see the weight inside. Mine had one loose and then I found the other one in there....

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                                  • Just cged my plane to 65mm here are the battery positions.

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                                    • Well minus the two glass pieces she's finished. I had to lower the pitch on the rudder and elevator both with the new servos. They were nearly pitching 90°! So both are dialed back to 27% as that is just about a half inch of travel on the elevator to and that was the highest the rudder could go without jamming the elevator. I wonder what an open cockpit b26 designation would be? FUBAR26?

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                                      • With those pilots, I would say YES!!!! LOL Good job Bro!! :-)

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                                        • Right, they look like they belong on race horses not an aircraft lol

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