That's what I figured from the nose gun after looking at that but the glass parts are still needed. Why wouldn't that be in the plastic parts? I mean they even include the tail gunner and turret glass but not the other 2??
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Originally posted by OV10 View Post
The constant "on" of the landing lights I have remedied very easily and inexpensively(less than $5) on other birds like the FMS 1400 Corsair and T-28.
To get the lights to being on when gear is down and off when gear is up is done with one reversing circuit and one Y cable.
The reversing circuit ........... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...rser-long.html
Plug the Y lead male end in the gear channel of the receiver.
Plug the lead of the retracts into one of the female connectors of the Y lead.
Plug the reverser(input) into the other female connector of the Y lead.
Plug the gear lights into the reverser female(output) connector. [ ensure polarity is correct ie , red + positive and black/brown - negative.................the signal white/yellow wire on reverser is of no consequence ;)]
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Originally posted by Mad Baron View Post
What would be the best way to remove the cover on the bottom of the wing to access to the LED?
For all the issues that have been staked so far, it's value is certainly not more than it's close Dynam family twin power sake the BF-110 @ $209.
With the Dynam ME-262 @ a $239 value it makes the pricing on this B-26 a true Baltimore *****.LOLWarbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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This pic shows the LE of the stab, on the right side (right edge of the picture is facing the nose).
Noticing that I need to have some "up" trim to fly level (like everyone else), I was thinking I could adjust the stab a bit. The front part of the stab was sitting up just a bit, it wasn't perfectly flush.
So I removed the stab and carefully trimmed out the saddle (about 1/16" at the front) in order to lower the leading edge of the stab about 1/16". Its important to be precise - to ensure the stab still fits properly and is level.
Result shown here - look carefully and you'll see that the top part of the stab is now sitting perfectly flush with the top of the fuselage. This should make it possible to fly with the elevators close to neutral. I'll be flying it this weekend and I'll let everyone know.
Also - I took out the weight in the tail. I don't need tail weight. I am pretty sure that's only needed if you're using a light battery like a 3000. Bigger batteries have more than enough weight to balance the model properly.
And less weight is always better. I HATE adding weight to a plane for balance. That's what the battery is for.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by Mad Baron View Post
What would be the best way to remove the cover on the bottom of the wing to access to the LED?
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Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostAnd for the record I looked in this fuselage. No weight in the tail at allMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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OK Rifleman I see, you meant the weights were missing from the replacement fuselage that you got. That makes some sense to me, since the replacement parts usually don't have any hardware in them (servos, motors, etc)
Ryan, and Rifleman, separate from that issue...I'm trying to understand why adding weight to the tail would be necessary (or even desirable).
If the model is nose heavy, then you can use a slightly smaller battery or push it back farther. That's what I'm planning to try this weekend.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Well minus the two glass pieces she's finished. I had to lower the pitch on the rudder and elevator both with the new servos. They were nearly pitching 90°! So both are dialed back to 27% as that is just about a half inch of travel on the elevator to and that was the highest the rudder could go without jamming the elevator. I wonder what an open cockpit b26 designation would be? FUBAR26?1 Photo
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