Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[davegee]

One last recommendation, definitely run 2 separate wires to the AB controller, one for each LED cone. This makes each nozzle flicker independently and looks more like the F-18 actually has 2 separate engines. I use the 2S Admiral 450mah batteries for all my burners, gets about 15 minutes of flight time on these for the F-18. That of course depends on how you program the controller to start the flicker and your throttle management, and I use a ridiculously low throttle setting like 38% (comes at like 50% I think), so it looks like my pilot has a "lead foot". But if you got it, flaunt it.

Thanks for the great tips on adding the silver tape to enhance the A/B light look. I'll look through your directions and see if I can come up with something decent like yours came out.

Cheers

davegee

[Hugh Wiedman]

One last recommendation, definitely run 2 separate wires to the AB controller, one for each LED cone. This makes each nozzle flicker independently and looks more like the F-18 actually has 2 separate engines. I use the 2S Admiral 450mah batteries for all my burners, gets about 15 minutes of flight time on these for the F-18. That of course depends on how you program the controller to start the flicker and your throttle management, and I use a ridiculously low throttle setting like 38% (comes at like 50% I think), so it looks like my pilot has a "lead foot". But if you got it, flaunt it.

[Hugh Wiedman]

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm not sure if I'll do that, but would still appreciate any tips on putting the aluminum tape in to brighten the burners, Hugh. My burner unit is on the way from San Diego, but won't be here for several days. I'd have time to put that tape in, at least in parts of the chambers to brighten it up some.

Thanks,

davegee

Give it a try, you'll definitely like it. A few tips:

1) Get some dowel rods about 2 feet long in 1/2" and 5/8" diameter, and round one of the ends on each (you'll use these to smooth down the aluminum tape and a sharp square end will tear it) See Photo #1
2) Remove the EDF and leave the motor hatch removed (which you will have to do to install the burner cone anyway).
3) First install a piece at the end of the nozzle laying at a 45 degree angle to the thrust. Don't worry, you'll cover the edge exposed to the thrust later as Evan D is 100% correct you do not want any forward facing edges. This is just to get a nice finished edge at the end of the nozzle.
4) Cut pieces the length needed to go from nozzle end to under the EDF shroud.
5) Before removing backing to expose the sticky back, shape the piece fairly straight and U shaped, with the backing on the outside and just get a corner of the backing pulled up.
6) "lightly" tape the 1/2" rod in the center of the U, with the rounded edge up front. (see photo #2 & #3)
7) Remove the entire backing, and make sure it is shaped in a nice U or even more closed at the top (but not too much that it sticks to the other side).
8) Now "like a surgeon" and with steady hands, put the rod up the nozzle without letting any section touch the inside of the nozzle. Put it in with the back just past your first "edge" you put at the end of the nozzle with most of it covering the piece you already put down.
9) Press the rod down in the center and roll it to get it to stick on the inside of the nozzle. The tape should come off, if not, reach in through the exposed EDF cover and press down where necessary. You can always trim any excess up front. Use the larger dowel rod to smooth it down along the entire piece like washing a toilet bowl with the beveled end. If you mess up a piece or you manage to get it to stick somewhere before you get it in the right place, pull it out before you press it down, cut a new piece and start over (yes, I've done that many times).
10) Repeat again and again and again until the entire area is covered, keeping in mind Evan's advice that all exposed edges run front to back, nothing facing the thrust, and starting up under the EDF shroud.

Then Ignite The Flame!!!

[Evan D]

I agree it's worth the effort and it is a lot of effort on this. Just make sure you over lap edges so there isn't any forward facing edge then tuck the most forward edge under the fan shroud.

[davegee]

Likewise Evan D and davegee, hope everyone has a great Christmas and New Years! I also got the twin RC Geek burners in both mine and love 'em. Have his burners in every one of my EDF's except the A-10. If you have time and an hour of patience, I also recommend lining the exhaust nozzles with aluminum A/C tape. It's a bit of a pain with the bifurcated nozzles (same on the F-4), but IMO it more than doubles the light output. If you decide to do it (and maybe you've already done this on others), I can give you a few tips that makes it a little easier to install that I got from someone else here in the Squawk a while back.

I'm not sure if I'll do that, but would still appreciate any tips on putting the aluminum tape in to brighten the burners, Hugh. My burner unit is on the way from San Diego, but won't be here for several days. I'd have time to put that tape in, at least in parts of the chambers to brighten it up some.

Thanks,

davegee

[Hugh Wiedman]

Thanks, Hugh, this is great information! I was expecting to set up specific stab settings for flaps up, takeoff flaps, and landing flaps like I do in my Freewing F-4N, but was surprised that there was nothing said on that in the F-18 instructions. But I'm going to set mine up like you have yours and at least be in the ballpark for the maiden so I don't have to contend with a really out of trim airplane. I can adjust it per each flight down the road. I'm waiting on a centerburner A/B kit from RC Geek, should be here on the 27th, probably maiden first decent day after the new year after that. Might have to bring it down to Miami, the way the winds have been blowing up here! (LOL)

Have a Merry Christmas, Hugh, and thanks again for those pics and settings.

Cheers

davegee

Likewise Evan D and davegee, hope everyone has a great Christmas and New Years! I also got the twin RC Geek burners in both mine and love 'em. Have his burners in every one of my EDF's except the A-10. If you have time and an hour of patience, I also recommend lining the exhaust nozzles with aluminum A/C tape. It's a bit of a pain with the bifurcated nozzles (same on the F-4), but IMO it more than doubles the light output. If you decide to do it (and maybe you've already done this on others), I can give you a few tips that makes it a little easier to install that I got from someone else here in the Squawk a while back.

[Evan D]

Merry Christmas to all of you too!

[davegee]

Dave, I originally set my neutral elevator about 8mm below the line shown in the picture below. This obviously depends on what your balanced at. This was balanced at 104mm, so the further nose heavy you fly towards the 88mm balance point recommended, the more up elevator you will need. For take-off flaps, the elevator is around 11mm and landing flaps around 14mm (using suggested flap deflections), so there is some up elevator required with flaps. Picture #2 is with take-off flaps and #3 with landing flaps. This is also a matter of preference on how you prefer your level attitude to be when flying with flaps and at what speed. Hope this is at least a decent starting point, but suggest that you set up Flight modes if you don't already use them so you can trim the elevator in flight for each flap setting.

Thanks, Hugh, this is great information! I was expecting to set up specific stab settings for flaps up, takeoff flaps, and landing flaps like I do in my Freewing F-4N, but was surprised that there was nothing said on that in the F-18 instructions. But I'm going to set mine up like you have yours and at least be in the ballpark for the maiden so I don't have to contend with a really out of trim airplane. I can adjust it per each flight down the road. I'm waiting on a centerburner A/B kit from RC Geek, should be here on the 27th, probably maiden first decent day after the new year after that. Might have to bring it down to Miami, the way the winds have been blowing up here! (LOL)

Have a Merry Christmas, Hugh, and thanks again for those pics and settings.

Cheers

davegee

[davegee]

Hugh has good info and without pulling mine and powering it I have to say I'm very close to what he shows. I have 7 and 12% in my radio for half and full flaps.

As I typically do I put each surface on it's own channel, 11 on a 12ch receiver, to have full full span flaps, tailerons, crow and rudder airbrakes... And I'm 8S with a JF/ HET set up.

Thanks, Evan. I had one years ago that crashed, but the settings are still in my radio, but not being used for the time being. It had fullspan flaps, rudders that canted inwards for takeoffs, but I don't think we got tailerons going, although we might have. A buddy of mine set mine up. He has a 1/6 scale turbine F/A-18F with all the bells and whistles, a beautiful plane and he flies the hell out of it.

Sounds like you have a nice set up on yours. Appreciate your comments regarding Hugh's plane and I'll set mine up accordingly. I just want to be in the ballpark when I take off on my maiden in a couple of weeks, just don't want any sudden, unexpected maneuvers that I have no control over!

Merry Christmas!

davegee

[Evan D]

Hugh has good info and without pulling mine and powering it I have to say I'm very close to what he shows. I have 7 and 12% in my radio for half and full flaps.

As I typically do I put each surface on it's own channel, 11 on a 12ch receiver, to have full full span flaps, tailerons, crow and rudder airbrakes... And I'm 8S with a JF/ HET set up.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Thanks, Evan. Sorry for any confusion on my part. All is well now, with the exception of getting a reading on correct elevator setting on the ground for takeoff and if a flap/elevator mix is warranted for this airplane. Do you have one of these, any suggestions?

Cheers

davegee

Dave, I originally set my neutral elevator about 8mm below the line shown in the picture below. This obviously depends on what your balanced at. This was balanced at 104mm, so the further nose heavy you fly towards the 88mm balance point recommended, the more up elevator you will need. For take-off flaps, the elevator is around 11mm and landing flaps around 14mm (using suggested flap deflections), so there is some up elevator required with flaps. Picture #2 is with take-off flaps and #3 with landing flaps. This is also a matter of preference on how you prefer your level attitude to be when flying with flaps and at what speed. Hope this is at least a decent starting point, but suggest that you set up Flight modes if you don't already use them so you can trim the elevator in flight for each flap setting.

[T-CAT]

Excellent points! I was working on it all day yesterday, trying to get the correct servo geometry for a working tail hook, but haven't gotten it all set up yet. And of course, late last night when I put the wings on and applied the power to her, I got something I had never seen before. I probably would have gotten around to checking those connectors, but you certainly made the lightbulb come on in my head! Appreciate it.

No problem! That’s always the great part about threads and forums. We can all help each other out and many times get a quick response to questions, learn things from one another, spark ideas, etc.

[davegee]

Thanks. When you mentioned a crack I wondered. What you found is what I would have expected too.

Thanks, Evan. Sorry for any confusion on my part. All is well now, with the exception of getting a reading on correct elevator setting on the ground for takeoff and if a flap/elevator mix is warranted for this airplane. Do you have one of these, any suggestions?

Cheers

davegee

[davegee]

You’re welcome . I’m glad it was something quick and simple to fix. With the factories and assembly done by people, there is always a chance of something like that occurring. On each aircraft I get with quick connect plugs, I unscrew the board and check all the connections to confirm they are correct and that all Servo leads are seated properly. It always makes me feel better and I feel it’s part of my duty as a pilot to make sure it’s ready for flight, among the other typical things all of us pilots inspect before flying. It’s worth the little time it takes .

Excellent points! I was working on it all day yesterday, trying to get the correct servo geometry for a working tail hook, but haven't gotten it all set up yet. And of course, late last night when I put the wings on and applied the power to her, I got something I had never seen before. I probably would have gotten around to checking those connectors, but you certainly made the lightbulb come on in my head! Appreciate it.

[T-CAT]

Thanks, T-Cat. You were exactly right! the Left wing was plugged in properly, but the right wing had the aileron and flap positions reversed for their plugs. Once I made the change, all flap and aileron movement is now normal. This was a brand new in box kit, so I think the mistake was just done at the factory. Fortunately, it was an easy fix.

You’re welcome . I’m glad it was something quick and simple to fix. With the factories and assembly done by people, there is always a chance of something like that occurring. On each aircraft I get with quick connect plugs, I unscrew the board and check all the connections to confirm they are correct and that all Servo leads are seated properly. It always makes me feel better and I feel it’s part of my duty as a pilot to make sure it’s ready for flight, among the other typical things all of us pilots inspect before flying. It’s worth the little time it takes .

[Evan D]

Thanks. When you mentioned a crack I wondered. What you found is what I would have expected too.

[davegee]

So this was not a new, out of the box one?

It was a new, in the box kit, of the new grey with the VFA-146 decals already on it.

[davegee]

Question on neutral elevator position on the ground with power applied: I sure didn't see this addressed in the manual, or I could have missed it. But, where should the elevator position be (leading edge up or down from neutral) with power applied? From videos like James flying his F-18C Blue Angels plane, the elevator sure has some nose up trim (leading edge of elevator below the seam on the fuselage several mm's, but I have no idea where to put it, other than a guess. I know they have a drawing in the manual to drop the flap 9.5 mm down for a neutral position, but I sure missed anything on the elevator position for neutral, if it was there at all.

Last, although I didn't see it in the manual, but some like PIlot Ryan in his video advocated for a flap/elevator mix on this airplane, of about 5% nose up trim what he uses. Is this pretty universal among out Hornet fliers out there, or do you use any flap/elevator mix on your planes?

Thanks so much!

davegee

[davegee]

On the wing connector electronic boards (can be removed via the screws to inspect), have you confirmed that the correct servo leads are plugged into the proper slots on each wing board?

Pictured below and with the arrow pointing to it is the electronic board that can be found on each wing. Once removing the screws, you can then gently pull out the board to reveal the Servo plugs that are attached to it. Look at each of those Servo slots to confirm they are plugged in properly.

Thanks, T-Cat. You were exactly right! the Left wing was plugged in properly, but the right wing had the aileron and flap positions reversed for their plugs. Once I made the change, all flap and aileron movement is now normal. This was a brand new in box kit, so I think the mistake was just done at the factory. Fortunately, it was an easy fix.