Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[Pete Lane]

Yes ....fun...fun...fun...till your Daddy takes the Tbird
away . Peanut butter is great...even when the toaster
is broken.

[thisguy65]

TG65 I was not talking about you when I stated those percentages... But it is how our fields pilots are... Note I said maybe 10% KNOW how to do a range check. Fewer actually do them. I've been told numerous time that their radios don't have the reduced power setting to do one and I've had many think a range check is done at full power.

Our club has a radio programing class at least once a year among other classes.

Weighing your batteries and marking an in service date is a great idea.

I know bud, I was just replying since it’s no secret I’m still new to the hobby. That’s scary though, really.



Set it up like you said and now my delt

[Evan D]

I suggest you move the push rod closer to the center of the servo. At least to the second hole. If you can go to the inner hole but it may bind at that point. The idea is to use more of the servos throw to get a better mechanical advantage.

I know bud, I was just replying since it’s no secret I’m still new to the hobby. That’s scary though, really.



Set it up like you said and now my delt

[flyAA]

-130 is default but not what you want for electrics. It's what you want for a glow motor.

If you calibrate your ESC at -100 and 100 which is normal and then plug in with -130 it start running when you turn your throttle kill off. There may be some ESCs that don't do this but it's a safety hazard. Everyone should change the default to -100 when they set up a new electric plane.

I’m a noob and all of my planes have the throttle cut at -130. I have the -100 and 100 range and none of my motors will start running when i turn throttle cut off.

Is is it a spektrum thing? I have no clue lol.

[thisguy65]

I suggest you move the push rod closer to the center of the servo. At least to the second hole. If you can go to the inner hole but it may bind at that point. The idea is to use more of the servos throw to get a better mechanical advantage.

Doesn’t look like it will word. Buts it better than being at the very bottom like factory/book

[John_53_70]

You avatar reminds me of politicians faced with a relevant question!!! ;):Confused:LOL

LOL I joined hobby sqwak during alpha’s guessing game project foil, and at that very moment it was the perfect avatar lol. Just as soon as I thought I had it figured out BAM..... left hook for alpha lol. I miss those days

[Jetman64]

Aros,
I do that exact thing (eye balling my throw settings) with all my birds and have been doing so since my 2 or 3 plane. I’ve never had an issue with my high and low throw settings since, and I’ve tried many of FW’s starting points and all of them have been crazy large. I to, find it hard to believe some find the manual throw settings ok. But like you said, to each their own.

[thisguy65]

Well the beotch is back together and operating like it should 8-10 hours I have in fixing this thing. I’m a slow worker double, triple checking everything multiple times.


Thanks everyone for the help.

[fredmdbud]

[Aros]

Aros,
I do that exact thing (eye balling my throw settings) with all my birds and have been doing so since my 2 or 3 plane. I’ve never had an issue with my high and low throw settings since, and I’ve tried many of FW’s starting points and all of them have been crazy large. I to, find it hard to believe some find the manual throw settings ok. But like you said, to each their own.

Yeah I will sometimes set the model up given the manufacturer recommendation just out of respect for all the testing that goes into the models before they offer their recommendations but alas, nearly every time I do I look and do a double take, "Is that callout correct?" I look at the throw and I am like, "That is LOW rates?!?" Funny. It may be that the testers simply have learned to fly their jets at higher throws but I have been flying for nearly two decades and I still prefer less roll on a new jet. Sure I expand that percentage after I get really familiar with it but for the maiden? That's nuts to me. But again, to each their own.

:Confused:

[thisguy65]

Yeah I will sometimes set the model up given the manufacturer recommendation just out of respect for all the testing that goes into the models before they offer their recommendations but alas, nearly every time I do I look and do a double take, "Is that callout correct?" I look at the throw and I am like, "That is LOW rates?!?" Funny. It may be that the testers simply have learned to fly their jets at higher throws but I have been flying for nearly two decades and I still prefer less roll on a new jet. Sure I expand that percentage after I get really familiar with it but for the maiden? That's nuts to me. But again, to each their own.

:Confused:

haha I was like with my F-22...like the dang elevator is almost 20 degrees from vertical...do what!?

Well done!!

[Jetman64]

I just picked up the new E-flite Carbon Z Cub 2.1 SS. Their starting high/low on the ailerons are; 45mm high/ 40mm low. I’m not 3D flyer, but if you could see these settings as the ailerons move, you’d be like WHAT the!
I know it’s a big bird, but nobody should maiden a plane with those numbers in my opinion and that’s my 2 penny’s worth. 👨🏼🔧

[Jetman64]

To show I’m not bat s*** crazy. ;)




https://youtu.be/f3UGDqtDeWI

tg65
you have those flap servos set up all wrong in my book. They should not be that far forward, their binding just trying to move.

[thisguy65]

tg65
you have those flap servos set up all wrong in my book. They should not be that far forward, their binding just trying to move.

How itvwas from the factory

[duke]

Well Duke, good luck and Happy Landings on the maiden! As some like Evan will tell you, they say the book recommendations are a good place to start. For me personally, I found the aileron recommended low rates still way too twitchy for my tastes. I have dialed mine back to about 70% and it feels much better there. Now granted, we all have our preferences but for me personally, I like to limit my roll authority on a jet when I am maidening and getting to know it. Most tend to agree on the CG while some are 5mm (+/-), but the recommended seems to be a good starting point. Be sure to to do a thorough job checking all control surface authority, CG, range check, be sure there are no "gremlins" lurking (servos acting strangely in different configurations/power settings, etc) that you can see, basically all the usual things you would want to do before a flight and especially a maiden. Again, good luck and let us know how it goes!

Aros your advise was GOOD! Madin wend good. BB box and everything worked as it should. The plane is a dream to fly and looks great in the air( Blue Angle).

[Bobaroo]

WellNow ,... One of our esteemed fellow Squawker's has provided the requisite part for the Airbrake Mod. ThanksAgain . This along with the LEFlaps are next up on the bench along with New Struts and Full GearDoors !! All of this is costly and Completely unnecessary I can assure you. Cheers !!

[janmb]

I had an issue with the Gyro Stabilizer(Blue color) from Motion RC causing to twitch the Ele/Rud/Ali randomly. All the surfaces would do this at the same time, sometimes it would happen within 2 min after applying power, sometimes it would take a little longer, very random... I removed the gyro and the issue went way. Sending it back to MRC for replacement. I tried it with 3 different RX manufacturers and had the same results.

If you are referring to Hobby Eagle 3 axis gyro, this twitching seems to be fairly normal. You included, I have seen this from 3 different copies across various radio systems now.

For my own part I have an FW BAE Hawk that has over 100 flights on it using that gyro, twitching included. It seems like some sort of reinitialization or something along those lines. Fortunately it seems to have absolutely zero impact on anything other than obviously causing a few well deserved trust issues.

[janmb]

I’m a noob and all of my planes have the throttle cut at -130. I have the -100 and 100 range and none of my motors will start running when i turn throttle cut off.

Is is it a spektrum thing? I have no clue lol.

Yeah it's a Spektrum thing.

Most ESCs handle the combination of -130 and -100 just fine, which is why you haven't noticed any problems.

However, some ESCs will redefine the low throttle value each time it initializes (most ESCs only ever do this if powered on with full throttle to enter programming mode). So if the ESC decides the new low throttle level is -130, and your radio then jumps from -130 to -100 when you switch off the cut, you get the idea of what will happen :D Fair enough, it is only still about 15% throttle, but with a sharp propeller that can be bad enough.

As Evan says, using -100 as value for the throttle cut function is by far the best practice for electric models.

[xviper]

I just picked up the new E-flite Carbon Z Cub 2.1 SS. Their starting high/low on the ailerons are; 45mm high/ 40mm low. I’m not 3D flyer, but if you could see these settings as the ailerons move, you’d be like WHAT the!
I know it’s a big bird, but nobody should maiden a plane with those numbers in my opinion and that’s my 2 penny’s worth. 👨🏼*🔧

Like you said, this is a BIG plane and a high wing at that. I had the Carbon Z Cub years ago. If the new SS is anything like the old foamie Cub, it'll roll like a 300 lb pot belly pig. I dialed in even more AIL throw than what was recommended just so it would complete a roll before sun moved enough to cast my shadow in a different place. The same can be said of the big CZ T-28. They just don't roll very quickly. I think Horizon knew what they were doing with those recommended throws.

[thisguy65]

Yeah it's a Spektrum thing.

Most ESCs handle the combination of -130 and -100 just fine, which is why you haven't noticed any problems.

However, some ESCs will redefine the low throttle value each time it initializes (most ESCs only ever do this if powered on with full throttle to enter programming mode). So if the ESC decides the new low throttle level is -130, and your radio then jumps from -130 to -100 when you switch off the cut, you get the idea of what will happen :D Fair enough, it is only still about 15% throttle, but with a sharp propeller that can be bad enough.

As Evan says, using -100 as value for the throttle cut function is by far the best practice for electric models.

My eflite f-16 is like this, if throttle cut is on and plug in the battery, then turn off throttle cut the fan will start spinning. Just know to calibrate the esc before ever first flight