Cool. And because I have the hobby eagle A3 super 3 gyro. Am I right in saying that if I use the pass through option for out4 and out5 I can use those channels to plug in my gear and flaps? I'm mainly interested in doing this to get rid of that annoying delay on the gear and ultimately get rid of the blue box. However guessing i can't plug the lights directly in to the rx? Anyone know what voltage the lights run on? Maybe I could tap those into the on board UBEC? And I assume the nose leg light is on a separate wire to the gear itself? So when i plug the gear in it isn't gonna go pop through having received too much voltage?
Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread
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I can't say as I don't use the A3 Super 3. Best to do your research and testing before sending the plane up.Comment
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Also how do you determine what receiver type to tell the gyro you are using. For example I am using a Futaba R7008SB but not using the sbus functionality just yet. So do I tell the gyro I'm just using a standard receiver. Or a ppm receiver. Or despite not using the sbus do I still tell it I'm using a Futaba Sbus/Sbus receiver?Comment
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Hey Hornet Aficionados, Back to work here at LB's Hornet Worx. Vents, antennae, Filler at elevator bay, gun port, 2 coats primer on the bottom/top tomorrow, then sand, sand and more sanding. Best, LB
8 Photos"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
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Okay now you're just purposely trying to make the rest of us look bad.
Well done my friend!
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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T-CAT & Aros, Thanks Guys. It is fun, though slow going sometimes. Hoping it will all come together in the end. I am a bit worried about overall weight, but I am considering the power system in the High Performance BA version or an upgrade combo suggested by Hugh Wiedman in an earlier post. Best, LB"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
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Yeah man, seriously nice work.
As for power upgrades, I'm seriously enjoying my 12s 3700-4000 setup. I fly in Colorado at roughly 5800MSL and have *almost* unlimited vertical.
HET 700-68-1200kv spinning a JetFan90.Comment
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AceMigKiller , I thank you, Sir. We were in the Fairplay CO area in early June and loved it, but at 10.6K feet EDF would be difficult, if not impossible. Tamms loved the area, I just rolled my eyes since all I could think about was finding a new hobby like model RR or knitting.
Long winters there. Got a little paint on the fuselage today. Best, LB
3 Photos"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
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That's some altitude alright. Some great glider and slope flying up in the high country! Hmmm... emptied out slope soar Hornet...
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sorry guys. Where can I find the stl files for ordinance? I know its here somewhere just can not find itComment
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CB, Check out Thingiverse using the Search "Freewing". There are a couple differing scales. but can be handled easily in your slicer program. Dirty Dee, Crxmanpat and others have been posting files there for some time. Best, LB"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
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Thank you. And anyone know what would be an accurate representation of what a full size F18 would actually be typically loaded out with for say air to air combat. Guessing side winder on wing tip and amraam under the wing?Comment
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Elbee suggest you try it with the stock power plant first before upgrading the power system. I was convinced that I would upgrade to either the 12 blade 4068-1835 Kv inrunner I put in the F-16 ($158 but out of stock yet again) or the 9 blade 3672-1900 Kv inrunner that comes with the BA version ($90-but still out of stock) but the more I fly the stock version, I'm thinking I may not upgrade it. I'm using the RT 6250 or HRB 6000 50C and get well over 4 minutes and it gets off the grass and has plenty of speed and vertical for me so I'm thinking more and more to just leave it as is. I did weigh the final version with the cockpit/paint/AB's and such and as you know, I was 1.2 POUNDS heavier than the base grey stock, so I can't imaging yours is much heavier. Besides, it may give me a reason to also get the BA version.T-CAT & Aros, Thanks Guys. It is fun, though slow going sometimes. Hoping it will all come together in the end. I am a bit worried about overall weight, but I am considering the power system in the High Performance BA version or an upgrade combo suggested by Hugh Wiedman in an earlier post. Best, LB
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" EdgeComment
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Hello Everyone
Having just purchased one of these beasties, I thought I'd join up in order to get the benefit of your wisdom and experience helping with a problem.
The model was categorised as "Open Box" because the wing mounting pegs/slots were misaligned. Entry 2185 on page 110 of this forum introduced the problem but I can find no answer, suspecting it was returned for replacement. Could it even be the same plane? My own photos are attached.
After careful measurement it is clear to me that the fixing pegs have been transposed. That is, the left one has been glued into the right hand side and the right one has been glued into the left hand side.
Does anyone have any suggestions how best to remove these plastic parts? They seem well and truly immovable at the moment. Ironic of course that the elevator mounting plate lifts very easily (as per product update). I wondered about dripping denatured alcohol round the edges to soften/loosen the glue or even about the judicious application of local heat.
My aim would be to remove the pegs with minimal (or preferably, no) damage to the part, because they may have to be swapped over to the other side. But perhaps the parts are available in one of the accessory spare parts packs? I have asked MRCEU.
If I know I can obtain new (spare) parts, my plan of attack would be to carefully and slowly remove the parts by destroying them by cutting, drilling and grinding them out. Actually, I would not start this until the new parts were in my possession. and to this end, could I ask whether anyone has the parts on a no longer needed (crashed) donor aircraft and are prepared to let them go? Think of it as going to a good home instead of laying unused in the back of a workshop. It would be so much easier to preserve them if attacked from the rear (ouch!)
I look forward to your comments and suggestions. As you are the experts, I'd be grateful for your input.3 PhotosComment
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