Originally posted by DCORSAIR
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Official Freewing Twin 80mm EDF A-10 Thunderbolt II Super Scale V2 Thread
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Hey @Raptorflyer Thanks for the reply and info!!!Originally posted by Raptorflyr View Post
Hey FlyNAce. I purchased the high performance V2 version with the gyro. I haven't yet felt the need to even flip the gyro on, but wanted to get the highest performance version possible.
I have a few ModelSounds Inc Shockwave 3 sound systems. The gentlemen that ran the company has retired and they aren't available any longer... However, it does have sounds for the turbines and the gun. I mixed the gun sound with the light so it comes on when the light switch is flipped. He sold his sound sets to Beier Electronics for use in their MSM-1. There is a US Distributor for this product. The sound certainly adds an element of realism, but does add weight. I use exciter speakers which attach to the airframe and use it for resonance.
As far as batteries, I have been using 100c ZEEE 5200's which are available from Amazon. So far I have had good luck with these and you buy them in a two - pack for about what it costs to buy one battery from one of the major hobby outfits.
Got a few more flights on the A10 last weekend and still really liking it. It is a totally different animal than the smaller EFlite A10 I had before.
All good information!!! I'll check out the sound system to see if I can locate it. That would be cool!!! I have put mine together but the weather hasn't cooperated, wind-wise and rain. And unfortunately I'm leaving to go out of town for 3 weeks Thursday, so my maiden is now going to be delayed!
But it'll be here when I get back!
I had a smaller A-10 before as well. So I'm looking forward to flying this one. Thanks again and Happy Flying!!! Enjoy!
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Spent few hours correcting my slime lights. Roughly 20 coats of Tamiya X24. Its halved the brightness which is an added bonus too.
also shown is a great masking tape, you can leave this on for days and it won't lift paint off EPO. I went over the edge of the plastic light mounts and then used Tamiya tape to give a sharp edge up to the light lense.
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Love that mod! Yeah I wish FW would have added that out of the box. Nicely done.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Drag brakes on the B2 is somewhat effective for slowing down and needed for in-air rudder control. Slowing it down after landing has useful efficacy only if they are programmed to fully open together. On the A-10 however, it's great for "show and tell" (if that's what you're into). The motors' thrust reverse is far more effective if a short stop is needed. I'm not so sure on a heavy plane like the A-10, even with full open drag brakes, would shorten the roll that much. (Would add even more to an already very expensive model but that's just me.)
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I understand the reverse thrust is more effective, but this was mostly with a scale look in mind and braking as the "extra" feature.Originally posted by xviper View PostDrag brakes on the B2 is somewhat effective for slowing down and needed for in-air rudder control. Slowing it down after landing has useful efficacy only if they are programmed to fully open together. On the A-10 however, it's great for "show and tell" (if that's what you're into). The motors' thrust reverse is far more effective if a short stop is needed. I'm not so sure on a heavy plane like the A-10, even with full open drag brakes, would shorten the roll that much. (Would add even more to an already very expensive model but that's just me.)
bu setup requires the modeler to modify the ribbon cabe so that all 4 of the aileron and brake servos can work together to open the brakes
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I love the looks alone and am tempted to do the mod just for the scale appeal factor.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I am going to assume that you airbrushed the Tamiya Clear Yellow (looks great)... What did you thin the clear with? I have had trouble spraying that particular brand through my airbush.Originally posted by Alphonso View PostSpent few hours correcting my slime lights. Roughly 20 coats of Tamiya X24. Its halved the brightness which is an added bonus too.
also shown is a great masking tape, you can leave this on for days and it won't lift paint off EPO. I went over the edge of the plastic light mounts and then used Tamiya tape to give a sharp edge up to the light lense.
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There is enough space in the X24 bottle to add the correct amount of X20 thinner for airbrushing. You can brush it on with good results but it is much quicker to air brush as each coat dries instantly. I did the last coat heavier so it looked wet as that gave a nice shiny finish. You can't do too many coats.Originally posted by Eddie K’s RC View Post
I am going to assume that you airbrushed the Tamiya Clear Yellow (looks great)... What did you thin the clear with? I have had trouble spraying that particular brand through my airbush.
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HI! Do you recall where you have seen it? I kinda heard rumors but never seeing anything offical. I still want to buy one and just wonder If I should wait a bit or when those will be in the shelves. Cheers TobyOriginally posted by Alphonso View Post
The ones being sold in Asia from the next batch have the correct colour formation lights. Seen a vid on YT.
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Hello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.
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I fly mine with the stock gyro turned off and I use a different gyro receiver. I don't recall any mislabeling of the board but then, I never unplugged anything. If in doubt, it's always good to check all leads with a servo tester so you know what they are for sure.Originally posted by Kelew4n View PostHello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.
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I wasn't happy with the factory set-up having the nose gear steering being done by the gyro. I disconnected the nose gear steering servo from the gyro and connected it directly to the nose gear steering port on the control board.Originally posted by Kelew4n View PostHello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.
She tracks straight as an arrow, regardless. Initially, throws and flap/elevator mix by the book is a good start.
If you use 6000 mAh batteries, you may find that the CG is a tiny bit forward of the CG mark. This is not a problem for your maiden flight. You can adjust the CG as you wish, later on.
It's a VERY nice handling bird.
-GG
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See my prior post…above.Originally posted by slowace View PostI posted also on rcgroup but no response yet on my question.
I may be maiden my v2 hopefully today.. what's cg is everyone at on the v2 ? And can you stack the HRB 6000 together like I read online? I did not maiden yet only taxi test
With 2 Admiral 6000 mAh batteries, my bird is very slightly nose heavy when lifted at the CG marks / right side up and gear down. This is fine for a maiden. You can adjust to suit later.
Stacking? Man…there is barely enough room to place them end to end. It’ll take some smaller batteries to do any stacking.
For your initial flights, just get the CG close to balancing when lifted at the marks. She is a VERY nice handling ship even slightly nose heavy.
-GG
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