Official Freewing Twin 80mm EDF A-10 Thunderbolt II Super Scale V2 Thread

[GliderGuy]

One additional tip..,Since the nose wheel steering is handled by the gyro, make sure you are rolling straight before you apply power for take-off.

Report back here on your maiden flight experiences.

-GG

[Aros]

Okay she’s all put together but I can’t get any throttle action. The ESCs are beeping at me (about once every two seconds or so). I’m sure I’m missing something basic but I’m confused why there are three throttle servo leads photo below). The diagram in the manual shows throttle in the 3 position to the rx which I found odd. I tried both positions (1 and 3). The UBEC is plugged into the last port on my receiver. Tried calibrating the ESCs. Still no luck.

Everything else works fine. Gear, controls, lights. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[xviper]

Okay she’s all put together but I can’t get any throttle action. The ESCs are beeping at me (about once every two seconds or so). I’m sure I’m missing something basic but I’m confused why there are three throttle servo leads photo below). The diagram in the manual shows throttle in the 3 position to the rx which I found odd. I tried both positions (1 and 3). The UBEC is plugged into the last port on my receiver. Tried calibrating the ESCs. Still no luck.

Everything else works fine. Gear, controls, lights. Any help is greatly appreciated!

That diagram in the manual where is says port 3 for throttle is a misprint. Don't pay attention to it. Those two cables you're holding are the 2 throttle leads. They should be "Y'd" together and put into the throttle port (channel 1) of your RX. The yellow single wires are the reverse throttle signal wires. If you use reverse, those should be "Y'd" together and plugged into an empty channel that can be controlled by a switch. To get yourself that extra needed port on the RX, plug the UBEC lead into one side of a "Y" on ANY other channel. Once you get the throttle working on both motors, THEN do the throttle calibration.

[Evan D]

And what you have in Ch2 is upside down.

[Aros]

Thanks xviper!!

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hello everyone, I have the V1 and just received my V2. With my V1 and using SMC 6700 Mah batteries, my CG is at 95mm. Is it my understanding, please forgive me if this was already asked, everyone is keeping it at the recommended 78mm? I do like my planes at neutral CG and my jets a little tail heavy and don’t want to maiden the V2 with a way to nose heavy CG. Thanks for your responses in advance ! CF

Chris, while I would never disagree with GliderGuy a truly accomplished pilot and an invaluable resource of information for me, I do have, let's just say a difference of opinion on the A10 cg. 🤫 Granted, this is with the V1 A10 and an AR8360T Plus gyro RX and upgraded stock fans from the Mig inrunner fans (believe the V2 also has similar inrunners), so may not translate to the V2. I fly mine balanced at 100mm.

The manual cg is definitely nose heavy. For me, it balanced nuetral at 100mm. Balanced there, in flight, when you change the amount of thrust, it always remains level. Don't forget the thrust is directly over the horizontal stabs, so if you're nose heavy, you've had to trim in up elevator to keep it level and the effects of thrust over those surfaces is much more dramatic. The more thrust, the more it rises and vice versa.

For me it stays level no matter where my throttle is and the elevators are not compensating its orientation. I also use 2 SMC HiV V2 5900 packs for 6 minutes or more of flight time because I'm not using thrust to keep it in the air. I can cut throttle or keep it at or below 50% and it still flies beautifully. My A10, flown by our resident top gun expert at the Lakeland EDF event won best scale flight going over 8 minutes of slow acrobatic flight with no problem.

So just suggesting you experiment with the cg to get it flying the best for the way you like it.

[xviper]

And what you have in Ch2 is upside down.

I just went to check the wiring on mine and the AIL, ELE and RUD channel leads are all single wire ends, so regardless of color, all those single wires are "signal" wires, so it appears his ch. 2 is AIL and it looks like it is correct.
Double checking my wiring, I see that Aros's throttle/reverse wiring is on a single 4-wire cluster with 2 end plugs one each, while mine are separate. In the picture Aros put up, he needs to peel back the single reverse wires a bit and put a Y to connect both. On mine, I have 3-wire throttle AND 3-wire reverse leads, although I suspect only the signal wire is needed and the others is to make sure the end user doesn't put them on backwards.

[xviper]

Insofar as "CG", I recall that my V1 A-10 was set up (as per manual) with a small amount of UP ELE which I conclude was because it was nose heavy but it seemed that's the way the V1 was designed. This was also the same design them (or flaw) for the LX A-10 from years ago. I have not assembled my V2 yet but when I do, I will start with the suggested CG, which is apparently different from the V1. I surmise that the V2 has a different design theme when it comes to CG and the need for a bit of reflex on the ELE. I'll know when I maiden it.
As for the crow hop (or kangarooing) on landing, the video that Wes did with a guest pilot showed that this V2 can and does bounce on landing although I think much of that has been designed out of the V2. The pilot was likely unfamiliar with the landing parameters of the plane and the bounce was a result of a "miscalculation". I believe (and hope) that all it takes for a bounceless landing is a couple of trial "touch and goes" to know exactly what is needed to land this thing.

[GliderGuy]

First…I appreciate Hugh’s positive feedback, but it is I who hold him in highest regard. He has passed along so much information…I consider myself a student of his expertise.

Second…The V2 crow hop or kangaroo hop: When flying V1, it would get into a divergent crow hop…each bounce higher than the last. Many hours were spent repairing and replacing nose gear parts/foam/plastic/servo after the dreaded crow hop. As I briefly read, moving the CG farther aft greatly reduced the tendency to crow hop in V1.

With the 2 Admiral 6S 6000 mAh batteries moved as far aft as possible and still have some battery under the strap…V2 tipped ever so slightly nose down when lifted at the CG mark (gear down, right side up). Since I didn’t want to add weight to the tail, my decision was “GOOD ENOUGH…let’s fly it”. Will I experiment with tail weight? Probably.

How’d she fly? Elevator up reflex by the book and flap/elevator mix by the book…She took no trim adjustments. I was impressed. There is no change in pitch with throttle changes or gear position changes or flap setting changes.

She is locked in and really feels solid. I have made a few bouncy landings, but the divergent crow hop of the V1 is GONE! Each bounce converges to a no more bounce roll out…finally. She did bounce, but CONTROLABLY so. No longer the divergent crow hop of V1. Would a more aft CG make it behave even better? I don’t know.

The CG thing is a VERY personal setting. I happen to like the more stable/solid feel. AND she’s still aerobatic enough for my level of aerobatic skills. Pilots who want more responsive handling will want the CG aft of the mark. Personal decision, for sure.

I like to spin and snap roll. Will she spin and snap roll at the slightly nose heavy CG? Don’t know…to be tried at some point. And yes..a bit of stick push is needed when inverted. But not a lot.

Landing with the more stable CG location I have is easy. I relax landing the V2. I never relaxed landing V1!!!!!!!

And there you have my take on the CG.

Feel free to oppose my statements because CG location is such a personal thing, until it isn’t and you crash.

—————-

I left gyro control, reverse, and gun light connecting slots open (6 ch radio), For 1 thru 4, mine works with connections like the photo. Ch 5 and 6 for me are gear (5) and flaps (6)…Futaba RX. I MUST ALSO REVERSE THE THROTTLE DIRECTION IN THE TRANSMITTER!!!! If I don’t, the throttle won’t work and just beeps like yours is.

-GG

PS…My V1 did not have a gyro. I lost V1 in a radio glitch induced crash BEFORE I started using RF chokes.

[KevinMar]

Has anybody modified the ailerons to integrate the FW B-2's split control surfaces? Or simply split the aileron in half to control the top and bottom halves separately?

[Aros]

Maiden flight was great. No issues. Just a few clicks of left trim and she was dialed. Very easy and fun flyer. Problem was the landing. I grossly miscalculated where I was on the field. My depth perception ain’t what it used to be, that's for sure. Where I thought I was getting ready to touchdown on the mowed grass, I was a few feet further out and it hit the tall grass, spinning unceremoniously with parts flying. Luckily most the damage is cosmetic and easy to fix. The nose gear bent a bit, but I think I saved it from needing a full replacement. Might need to replace an ordnance or two, but otherwise she took the punishment like a champ!

I've flown this relatively new field a handful of times but am still getting used to it. With the help of some fine folks from my club and some Gorilla Tape, she was airborne again for a successful second flight. I have some work to do to get her looking great again but it could have been much, much worse.

I'll post the video later once it's published.

[Aros]

[f4u ausie]

Great flight and footage aros

[Alphonso]

Oof, did I see a vert stab snap off Aros? I was not expecting the event to happen at that point in the vid as it looked like a low pass, ie, way too fast for this model. If you'd touched down on the strip, I think it would've taken off again. Glad you got it up again in same day.
I did a similar thing after joining a new club a few years back, lined up for landing, thought I was over the strip but hit bullrushes at the edge. Spun the A10 round and flopped onto the grass. Not a scratch, she's a tough old bird.

[Aros]

Nope, not a VStab...That was all the ordnance going flying making it look far worse than it really was. I can't land on that strip as it is absolutely in atrocious shape. I started fixing her last night and she is in way better shape than I thought. Disaster diverted!

I'm going to paint her Arctic Camo starting this week and get my order into Callie for the decals. WHEW!

[GliderGuy]

Good job! Pretty sure you are not the first to have done that. I hooked a PJ-50 wing in tall grass on take-off. She spun around and took off backwards, floated up level and settled into tall grass with no damage other than the nose gear door came off its hinges.

Glad she’s OK! That video looked a bit hairy.

What was your issue with the motors not running?

[Aros]

Thanks! Xviper solved the riddle. I needed to ignore the single throttle servo lead and Y the two main throttle servo leads (the ones that have the reverse thrust tied to them) into the throttle port and it worked!

[GliderGuy]

As Alphonso noted in his post above…the A-10 with flaps, and in spite of its weight, should be floated in on approach.

Reviewing the video posted by Aros…Try slowing her down an LOT. Otherwise, you will find yourself flying again after touchdown. Reduce power to zero on final and establish a steady glide with a little up elevator application.

If you get too slow, she will let you know (sink rate increases) and you can burp the throttle.

-GG

[Aros]

As Alphonso noted in his post above…the A-10 with flaps, and in spite of its weight, should be floated in on approach.

Reviewing the video posted by Aros…Try slowing her down an LOT. Otherwise, you will find yourself flying again after touchdown. Reduce power to zero on final and establish a steady glide with a little up elevator application.

If you get too slow, she will let you know (sink rate increases) and you can burp the throttle.

-GG

Agreed. Being the maiden I always tend to side towards extra speed on landings until I have a few flights under my belt. I remember doing the same with the V1 and after a handful of flights the landings were slow greasers every time. This model is really a joy.

[GliderGuy]

Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions?
- Taxi is straight…no turning
- Take-off is straight
- Flight is straight and level
- Stock set-up with nose steering done by the gyro
- Not pilot induced…tried some “thumbs off stick” landings to eliminate the pilot

She sometimes is landing with the nose wheel set for a slight left turn. Upon touchdown, she wants to go left (a little)…enough that I must immediately correct or she angles toward the runway edge.

Interesting that after the initial left jig and if I don’t correct…she will then roll straight. Straight towards the runway edge, that is. Also, after the initial left jig, she will roll straight after correcting, too.

I tried bumping (not holding) a touch of right rudder before touch down…that seemed to work. But, this can send her off runway heading before landing. Also, I tried making both left and right patterns. No difference. Was thinking the gyro might be taking a “set”.

I’m about to adjust in a permanent right turn into the nose wheel steering adjustment because that’s easier to deal with on take-off than a sudden left jig when the nose wheel touches upon landing. A few times, the jig has been enough to cause the right wing to dip down. It’s also gonna create excessive scrub wear on the nose tire.

Or…bypass the gyro and connect the nose servo to the control board. I’ve never used a steering gyro on any plane, so bypassing won’t create issues for me.

Or…I have the gyro programmer and can take a look at the settings. But looking for what? Adjust to what?

Thanks!

-GG