Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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thats odd isn't it?
My first A-10 was part of the first batch in the pre-order, that was completely plain, no stickers anywhere. It also had a mix of vinyl and water slide decals.
My new kit+ has arrived with all the detail decals pre applied, such as 'no step' 'battery access' etc. The other difference is the vinyl squadron decals have changed to water slide.
Its not a complaint, just an oddity really? Saved me a an hour or so of work!
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Aweeeee, I just noticed that your in the U.K. There may be a difference between the planes being sent for sale in the US versus other countries, as Motion may have requested their A-10's to specifically have no decals applied. I was just speaking with a friend about that. Did you purchase your A-10 from MotionRC or from a vendor outside the US like RC-Castle?Comment
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Here's a question for all the guys that did the T.I. reversal. I'm sure it was posted some time ago but are you simply taking the struts off the retract units and switching them? I peeled the little plastic fairing off, removed the retract unit to access the set screws, reversed the struts, and put it all back together. Is that it or is there more to it?:Confused: I haven't checked to see if the gear retracts OK yet. Brad
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Right one to the left and left one onto the right side! Just did mine lastnight. I just cut the plastic so I could get the screws.Here's a question for all the guys that did the T.I. reversal. I'm sure it was posted some time ago but are you simply taking the struts off the retract units and switching them? I peeled the little plastic fairing off, removed the retract unit to access the set screws, reversed the struts, and put it all back together. Is that it or is there more to it?:Confused: I haven't checked to see if the gear retracts OK yet. BradComment
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I Did mine the other day and found that the hole for the strut pin is not centred. This means the leg doesn't sit flush on the retract when rotated round. Although I didn't find this an issue I did Dremel the strut so it copies the original format so that the leg fits around the contours of the retract housing. I'm sure you'll see what I mean when you swop them round.Here's a question for all the guys that did the T.I. reversal. I'm sure it was posted some time ago but are you simply taking the struts off the retract units and switching them? I peeled the little plastic fairing off, removed the retract unit to access the set screws, reversed the struts, and put it all back together. Is that it or is there more to it?:Confused: I haven't checked to see if the gear retracts OK yet. Brad
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Sometimes you have to grind the curved area on the backside of the strut where it meets the retract to match the stock curvature of the other side. I posted pictures of this back a few pages ago .Here's a question for all the guys that did the T.I. reversal. I'm sure it was posted some time ago but are you simply taking the struts off the retract units and switching them? I peeled the little plastic fairing off, removed the retract unit to access the set screws, reversed the struts, and put it all back together. Is that it or is there more to it?:Confused: I haven't checked to see if the gear retracts OK yet. BradComment
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After had a couple of " Bronco Billy Bounces " and see that once jumps begins you´re not the pilot anymore just a simple rodeo passenger and while one wait the upgrade LG parts from manufacturer I followed the neat ideas exposed by buddy TiredIron; ( Lots of kudos to you Sir as people reports a really imporvement on their landings )... just did some of my own on cosmetic touches... not neccesary really to remove the plastic covering what I did is use the original alum. light plate of nose gear to draw a cutting line for remove the retracts, remove a little bit with dremel the gear to let it close and also some foam on the retract bay... after that I painted the area and use with plastic a " door to close again the hole...not neccesary at all but I did anyway... really looks pretty cool...now waiting next day on the runway and check the modss... here is some pics if may help about... Best regards buddies. Manolo.12 PhotosComment
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Nice work, Manolo! If one decides to keep those well covers, double-sided Scotch tape is a good way to re-attach them, and future removal is easy. I also used this tape to secure the sheet plastic servo covers I made.
Tom2 PhotosComment
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Hey Ultimate, I don't know how to tell you this but you may have been able to avoid all of that foam carving by swapping the left for the right strut. The tire would then point out to the wing tip. I have been in that situation so many times.... nice carving job none-the-less. BTW, very nice work on that plastic cover. I will follow your method. Thanks for sharing.After had a couple of " Bronco Billy Bounces " and see that once jumps begins you´re not the pilot anymore just a simple rodeo passenger and while one wait the upgrade LG parts from manufacturer I followed the neat ideas exposed by buddy TiredIron; ( Lots of kudos to you Sir as people reports a really imporvement on their landings )... just did some of my own on cosmetic touches... not neccesary really to remove the plastic covering what I did is use the original alum. light plate of nose gear to draw a cutting line for remove the retracts, remove a little bit with dremel the gear to let it close and also some foam on the retract bay... after that I painted the area and use with plastic a " door to close again the hole...not neccesary at all but I did anyway... really looks pretty cool...now waiting next day on the runway and check the modss... here is some pics if may help about... Best regards buddies. Manolo.Comment









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