nothing different on take off same speed, roughly same distance before giving elevator, the plane wants to lift off naturally, ive checked and double checked all my wiring nothing getting hot under load, last few attempts the plane pushes hard to the left during taxi, ive noticed that the right EDF has more thrust, ive even swapped the fans around and same thing happens, checked and fans are tight nothing is loose, no debris in fans, they both free spin very easily, tested both ESC and they test fine, throttle is connected to receiver with Y harness, and differential thrust is not being used, everything looks perfect on the setup, but when giving more than half throttle the right side tries to outrun the left
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If you've swapped fans and still get more thrust on the right side, I'm not sure what else to tell you. How did you calibrate the ESCs. Did you do them both at once with the "Y" connecting both? Or did you separate each ESC by pulling one of the throttle leads and doing the calibration separately for each side? Not sure that this would make any difference but I'd give the other way a try. If this still gives no results, then I'd say try swapping the ESCs if that's a possibility. If the greater thrust then goes to the left, then I'd say look at the ESCs as being the problem.Originally posted by RCcharlie View Postnothing different on take off same speed, roughly same distance before giving elevator, the plane wants to lift off naturally, ive checked and double checked all my wiring nothing getting hot under load, last few attempts the plane pushes hard to the left during taxi, ive noticed that the right EDF has more thrust, ive even swapped the fans around and same thing happens, checked and fans are tight nothing is loose, no debris in fans, they both free spin very easily, tested both ESC and they test fine, throttle is connected to receiver with Y harness, and differential thrust is not being used, everything looks perfect on the setup, but when giving more than half throttle the right side tries to outrun the left
One more thought. When you spin the fans up and then throttle off, do both fans spin down in a similar way? Or does one stop quickly and not the other?
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Have you checked the front or main struts to see if the grub screws are tight?? If one is even remotely loose it will cause the plane to veer off the side.. Like you I looked for thrust issues but the solution was so simple..Been there done that..Originally posted by RCcharlie View PostI purchased this awesome plane a few months back recently completed the build and had a flawless maiden flight and 2 more flights the plane flew amazing... my favorite plane by far.. on the 4th attempt I taxi out and head down the runway on lift off it cartwheels to the left.. damaged the left wing so I try once more and now it acts like the right edf is thrusting harder than the left I have calibrated the throttle but still same results anybody else experience anything like this... I'm at a loss what to try
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OK man...I have the problem and the solution for you. Put it upside down on your stand, grab each wheel and turn it to the inside of the plane. The one that actually moves about an inch is your culprit, The wheel rod is bent. Bend it back. Had a 2 bounce landing with mine and it did this.Originally posted by RCcharlie View Postnothing different on take off same speed, roughly same distance before giving elevator, the plane wants to lift off naturally, ive checked and double checked all my wiring nothing getting hot under load, last few attempts the plane pushes hard to the left during taxi, ive noticed that the right EDF has more thrust, ive even swapped the fans around and same thing happens, checked and fans are tight nothing is loose, no debris in fans, they both free spin very easily, tested both ESC and they test fine, throttle is connected to receiver with Y harness, and differential thrust is not being used, everything looks perfect on the setup, but when giving more than half throttle the right side tries to outrun the left
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i just flew my V2 after having it in the hanger for some time. What a great plane.Originally posted by Alpha View Post
Congrats on your successful maiden and remaiden! I'm glad so many people are rediscovering just how slick a flyer the Freewing Me-262 is. It's one of the birds the Freewing factory guys here fly for fun, which says a lot.
Please make a production note to revisit/revise some reinforcement of the nose forward the battery tray. Just touched nose gear first on a landing and sheared the nose off mine on its third flight. That honeycomb area for the nose gear really does a number on a beautiful plane.
I know, I know, mains need to touch first. But things don't always go perfect, and should have enough margin of error to not cripple it.
Still love this plane.
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Its true that the nose area is quite weak. That nose gear acts like a lever and if you hit something it will just break the entire nose clean off like you said. There have been previous posts on this thread regarding this problem, mine was way back on 9-3-2018 if you care to take a peek. I really love this plane too! I agree that it would be a good idea for MRC to add an addendum or note to the manual with this suggestion.Originally posted by Jdcrow View Post
Please make a production note to revisit/revise some reinforcement of the nose forward the battery tray. Just touched nose gear first on a landing and sheared the nose off mine on its third flight. That honeycomb area for the nose gear really does a number on a beautiful plane.
I know, I know, mains need to touch first. But things don't always go perfect, and should have enough margin of error to not cripple it.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Found the solution to my problem... after deciding to just scrap this plane I dug out my e flite eratix 3d plane and used the receiver out of the me 262 since it was brand new... I had purchased the admiral stability plus receiver figured 30 bucks for receiver and gyro was an amazing deal.. did not have the gyro activated was just using as a basic rx.. so as soon as eratix lifted off things got real interesting.. luckily able to control a 3d plane alot better in this situation. Still had a nail biter of a landing noticing the rudder and aileron had a mind of thier own... once back on the bench started moving the rx by hand and all control surfaces started moving including throttle then nothing... no lights on rx no response at all... replaced with friends spectrum receiver and both me 262 and eratix had successful flights not sure what happened to the rx but it acted as if the gyro was on and malfunctioning... but at least problem is solved just need some new wings and fuse for the ME to make her pretty again.. thanks for all the help guys
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New to this thread .Just brought and flown the 262 .Love it ,what a great plane .One thing .I am flying on 2/3 throttle on a 6s 4500 4oc lipo and I fly for only 2 minutes and after checking the Lipo I have about 30% left in the Battery .I know the poor battery has to power to 70mm EDF but I am told most pilots are getting 4 minute flight with their 4500mph lipo .Is it that I have crap lipos What is everyone else flight times on the 262 ?
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With an Admiral 5000 my timer is set for 3:20 and I typically have only about 20% left in the battery - this model does suck the electrons like nobody's business. Times vary since it depends on your throttle setting, but this plane isn't much fun to fly slow - the faster it goes the happier it seems (and its so cool). Anyway I think you should be getting closer to 3 minutes - especially since that 4500 should be a little lighter. Lets see what others report!Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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It can go through a 5000 mah in 3 minutes. (or less) on full throttle.
I tended to vary the throttle a lot and got longer flights but getting past 6 min will require something that helps like slope soaring which could keep it in the air for over an hour..FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbs
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I just got this plane also and came here looking for battery suggestions and expected flight times. I already have a couple of Roaring top 4500's that I got for my F-86, and that is what I will probably do the maiden on until I have the funds for 5000's. I have wanted this jet for awhile, and am looking forward to flying it.
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i flew mine on the Admiral 6s 4500 40c. Averaged 3 minute flights. Battery check after flight ranged 3.80-3.83 per cellOriginally posted by Tim K View PostI just got this plane also and came here looking for battery suggestions and expected flight times. I already have a couple of Roaring top 4500's that I got for my F-86, and that is what I will probably do the maiden on until I have the funds for 5000's. I have wanted this jet for awhile, and am looking forward to flying it.
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Seeing how there are no suggested control surface throws in the manual, I did a search and found these on this thread. Is this what most people are using? Whats the consensus?Originally posted by mr.frankenjet View PostBrandon Moon posted these, it's what I started with. Limit ele on this one, too much ele and bad thinks can happen. Good luck and happy landings
Here is a good point to start with...I recommend using low rates first. Here are your awaited and requested "Nuclear Launch Codes" 
The throws for the surfaces:
Ailerons - H: 7/8" L: 5/8" as measured at the ROOT of the aileron (inboard edge) 30% expo on both rates.
Elevator - H: 3/4" L: 1/2" as measured at the fin 30% expo on both rates.
Rudder - H: 1" L: 3/4" - 30% expo on both rates (or No expo if desired?)
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Need to review my battery for this ME 262 .I have been using 6s 4200 35c,hence I am only getting just over a 2 minute flight .So I think I need to get some better battery for the 262 .The recommended battery for this model is the Admiral 6s 6000 pro but they are a bit expensive I am OK buying 2 of these battery from Motion RC but need to know will they improve my flight times .I am hoping for around a 4 minute flight but not sure if the 6000 pro will give me these times .Do not want to fork out a lot bucks and I do not get much difference in flight times ?
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A 6000 will get you the 4 minutes you want unless you've got the throttle pegged the whole time. I fly mine on a 5000 and I can get 4 minutes with varying throttle. Nothing will give you any decent flight times if you go balls to the wall from beginning to end.Originally posted by Captain Moron View PostNeed to review my battery for this ME 262 .I have been using 6s 4200 35c,hence I am only getting just over a 2 minute flight .So I think I need to get some better battery for the 262 .The recommended battery for this model is the Admiral 6s 6000 pro but they are a bit expensive I am OK buying 2 of these battery from Motion RC but need to know will they improve my flight times .I am hoping for around a 4 minute flight but not sure if the 6000 pro will give me these times .Do not want to fork out a lot bucks and I do not get much difference in flight times ?
6000 Expensive? Yes. But that's the price one must pay to play if you want a premium product. I fly these in most of my jets and they perform extremely well given the lower price point.
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Motion's 6000 is $124 and its an excellent product. Like others here, I started with the Admiral 5000 but I have been using the RoaringTop 6250 6S pack, this sells for $105.
The 6250 give you about 20% more capacity in terms of the gas tank. The RT is rated at 35C but it has performed with valor in all of my EDF jets.
The timer on my radio is set for 3:40 on my 262, that is what I was using with the Admiral 5000 and I was including time for one wave-off. With the RT 6250 on this plane it usually has plenty of reserve left, meaning that I could easily set the time for 4 minutes and still have enough for at least one wave-off. The ME262 seems to do best when its flying fast but I don't use full throttle most of the time. So I've enjoyed using the 6250's on the 262, the A10, the MIG-17 because it gives me extra time compared to the 5000 and doesn't weigh any more. https://www.roaringtopusa.com/35c-62...is-35c-6250-6sMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I’ve have about 6 different brands of lipos that I have used within the past couple years and in my experience I feel that the best value is the HRBs. I have about 12 of them total. The come in 4, 5, and 6000’s in 6s, but also offer compatible 2s for each size for mixing up cell count. I use them in my 8s F-22 and, like every other jet I own, they are great. On my twin 70mm jets I use 6000mAh 50c. I’m pretty sure the 6k’s are 819g, 5k’s are 740g, and the 4k (60c) are 614g. Which are considerably lighter than the Admiral equivalents and are 60% the cost.
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Hey all, I just got the last (for now) Me-262 V2 as a graduation gift, and after reading all these comments, I just cannot wait to go fly! And yes, I am sad too that so many comments with so much knowledge was lost, especially about the landing gear and wheel size. So I got to thinking. For the main gear, I am going to see and try putting in the Robart 2.75 in wheels, that is the best I can do for that, with the wheel well and all. For the nose gear however, I was thinking that what if you can swap out just the wishbone assembly with that from the upgraded nose gear with the Flightline F7F? I don't know if it would be the right size, and I am concerned about it blocking the nose doors from closing, so if anyone has both the 262 and the F7F, can you please let me know if the nose wheel on that can fit? Thank you! And if it works, I'll have to paint over that blue :D Another easy mod that I was looking at doing is with the main gear. It shouldn't be that hard to make your own gear doors for them. Just buy a spare set of the nose landing gear doors, cut the gear doors a little shorter (width wise), put a piece of balsa on the inside to glue it together and add some detail, put in 2 little holes by the wheel well, and if you want, put in a servo and using some y-connectors, sync the main gear doors with the nose. I'll have to try that when I get it. And I'm sure everyone here knows what do do about the flaps. Really, other than the gear, spilt flaps, and large canopy (which I don't plan on changing), this is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL model and I wonder why it isn't as popular! Bravo Freewing!
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I don't remember reading about the wheels or landing gear. What issue did people post about in this regard? I fly this plane with the stock gear off GeoTex and grass and the gear/tires have never been a problem. What is it that you're worried about? What you might want to do is to reinforce the nose section. On a hard landing, the whole nose from the front of the cockpit canopy can break off.
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